engine/ABS light help....

[trninhds]

Got 2 questions for you guys, maybe you know the answer. My car recently has been having trouble starting and i had the battery tested so i know thats not the problem. I assume its the alternator because it is not holding enough power to have the engine start right up. The lights on the dash all dim when i try and start my car and sometimes I have to wait a little bit so the engine turns over. Just tryin to make sure it is the alternator before i go out and buy a replacement.

The other question i have is about the abs sensor light that is on. My buddy that was helping me replace a broken wheel stud and we had to get into the drum. There was a bunch of rust/dirt and dust in there so he cleaned it by shooting compressed air in there. Could this have ruined the sensor???? That is what i think happened and why the sensor is on. The light wasnt on before that so maybe a bad sensor would be the cause.

Help me out guys!!!!

[hooRAH]

Have a battery charger or jumper cables? Power the car through another car, or charge the battery overnight. Do the lights get brighter and the car turn over quickly?

[trninhds]

that works for about a couple of days then goes back to having a lot of trouble starting. I had the battery tested so i know thats not it. The lights still dim when i charge it thru another car tho

[ShawnM]

Typically when you have a weak alternator the abs is the first thing to cut out. I would take care of the charging system\battery problem first then clear the abs codes and see if they come back.

[hooRAH]

If you have properly connected your cars electrical system to a booster source (battery pack, charger, other car), your lights should not be dim. If you have done this correctly, this indicates a problem in the wiring of your car (something is shorting to ground).

Because you said that charging the battery lets it work for a couple of days and then you again have starting issues, this suggests a battery that is slowly discharging due to a bad alternator.

Based on my experience, I'm going to guess that you did not boost the cars electrical system properly, and that the battery is dying over time until you recharge it, or that the lights really arent that dim. No offense, but based on the two contradicting symptoms, thats what I think is more likely.

You have an autozone that you can have them run a free charging system test on?

The alternator on that car is not hard to remove and drag into the store, they'll test just the alternator for free as well.

[trninhds]

Thanks for the replys guys. I know i didnt explain it very well. I'll have the alternator tested to see if thats the problem. Any ideas about the compressed air causing the abs sensor to go bad???

[mbba]

diagnose the abs to know which sensor is bad then change it. if you need to know how read this and try it will help alot as it did for me.

Breaking Down ABS Service
Adapted from Larry Carley’s article in Brake & Front End
Regardless of which ABS system may be on a Camry, all are four-wheel, four-channel ABS systems with similar control electronics and diagnostics. The Nippondenso and Bosch systems all have four wheel-speed sensors, and four three-position ABS solenoids in the actuator (except for those with traction control, which get an extra pair of solenoids). There’s also a pump motor and pair of relays (one for the solenoids and one for the pump motor). Camry All-Trac all-wheel drive models also have a deceleration sensor as part of the ABS system. You’ll find the decel sensor in the trunk near the ABS computer.
Like other ABS systems, the computer monitors input from all four wheel-speed sensors, but uses the "select low" principle of controlling the rear brakes. If either rear wheel starts to lock up, both rear brakes are cycled simultaneously to provide anti-lock braking.
Getting Access
Fortunately, Toyota was kind enough to provide flash codes on the Camry so you don’t have to use a scan tool to read or clear ABS codes. Even so, aftermarket scan tools are available that can access ABS codes and other system functions on most Camry applications
The basic procedure for accessing ABS flash codes depends on the model year. On the earlier 1988-91 systems, disconnect the actuator check connector on top of the ABS actuator with the ignition on. This should cause the ABS warning light to start flashing out any two-digit codes that are present within four seconds. The first number of blinks will equal the first digit of the code. After a 1.5 second pause, the second series of blinks will indicate the second digit of the code. If there are two or more codes present, there will be a 4.5-second pause between each code. If there are no codes present, the ABS warning light will flash continuously twice a second.
On the 1993 and newer Camrys, you’ll have to find the DLC1 and DLC2 data link connectors. DLC1 is located on the right side of the engine compartment near the firewall, and the DLC2 connector is inside the vehicle under the dash on the driver’s side. With the ignition on, remove the short pin jumper from DLC1. Then connect a jumper wire between terminals Tc and E1 on DLC1 or DLC2. This should cause the ABS warning light to start flashing out any codes. If there are no codes, the light will flash continuously twice a second.
Wheel-Speed Sensor Codes
If you find a wheel-speed sensor code, there are additional diagnostic checks that can be performed using the ABS system itself on both the Bosch and Nippondenso ABS systems.
To start the built-in WSS diagnostic program, jump terminals Ts and E1 on DLC1 or DLC2. Engage the parking brake and start the engine. On 1992 and newer Camrys only, push the brake pedal four to six times within two seconds. Do not pump the brakes on older models. The ABS light should now flash four times per second if there are no sensor codes.
Next, release the parking brake and drive the vehicle straight ahead on a level, smooth road at 2 to 4 mph. The warning light will turn off, then back on after a one-second delay. When the light comes on, accelerate above 4 mph. If the light flashes four times a second, the speed sensors are reading normally. If the light stays on without blinking, stop and read out the fault code.
To check the operation of the wheel-speed sensors at a higher speed, drive the vehicle straight at 28 to 34 mph for several seconds. The ABS warning light will go out and come back on. When the light comes back on, accelerate to a speed above 34 mph. If there are no problems, the ABS light will flash four times per second. But if the ABS system detects a fault in a wheel-speed sensor circuit, the ABS warning light will stay on and not blink. When the vehicle is brought to a stop, the warning light will flash out the code.
If there’s a problem in a wheel-speed sensor circuit, measure the resistance of the speed sensor. For 1991 and earlier systems, most specs say the front sensors should have 850 to 1,300 ohms, and 850 to 1,500 ohms for the rear sensors. For 1992 and newer sensors, the specs call for 600 to 1,800 ohms for both front and rear. If a sensor is open or shorted, it obviously needs to be replaced.
Also, remove the sensor and inspect the tip for debris. The sensors are magnetic and will attract and hold any iron or steel particles shed by the brake rotors or pads (if semi-metallic). Also, inspect the tone rings for missing or damaged teeth, or severe corrosion. If a front sensor ring is damaged, you’ll have to replace the halfshaft because the ring is located on the outboard CV joint. The rear sensor ring is an integral part of the rear hub, so if it is damaged the hub will have to be replaced.
If you have an oscilloscope, you can also observe the WSS waveform produced by a wheel-speed sensor. Amplitude and frequency should both increase with wheel speed. Toyota says at 12.4 mph, a good sensor should produce about 0.5 volts.
Code Clearing
On Camrys with Nippondenso ABS, codes can be cleared by disconnecting the battery, removing the ECU-B fuse, or by jumping terminals Tc and E1 on DLC1 or DLC2, removing the short pin from DLC1, and pressing the brake pedal eight or more times within three seconds with the key on and the vehicle stopped.
On Bosch ABS-equipped Camrys (1992 & up), disconnecting the battery or the ECU fuse won’t erase the codes. You have to jump terminals Tc and E1 on DLC1 or DLC2 and press the brake pedal eight or more times within three seconds with the key on and the vehicle stopped.
Toyota Tips
· One component that can prevent the ABS system from functioning properly is the stop light switch. The switch signals the ABS computer that the brakes are being applied. If the switch is faulty or open, the ABS system will remain asleep and not react when the brakes are applied.
· On All-Trac models, a defective or improperly mounted deceleration sensor in the trunk can also upset the normal operation of the system. On 1988-91 Camrys, there is a troubleshooting (Ts) connector located beside the ABS actuator in the engine compartment. A special diagnostic mode for checking the deceleration sensor can be entered by removing the rubber cap from the Ts connector and installing a jumper wire between its two terminals.
Engage the parking brake, depress the brake pedal and start the engine. The ABS warning light should blink once a second. To check the deceleration sensor’s detection point, raise the rear of the vehicle up 33 inches (measure from the rear bumper to the floor). The ABS warning light should go out. As the vehicle is lowered back down, the ABS light should start blinking again.
Next, raise the front of the vehicle 26 inches (measure between the lower body or spoiler edge and the floor). Again the ABS warning light should stop blinking, then start again as the front of the vehicle is lowered back to the ground.
To check the deceleration sensor in motion, drive the vehicle at just over 6 mph and lightly depress the brake pedal. The ABS light should blink about once a second with no change. Then accelerate 12 to 13 mph and lightly apply the brakes. The ABS warning light should stay on while braking. Speed up again to faster than 12 mph and hit the brake pedal more strongly. The ABS warning light should now blink very rapidly (about seven times a second). If the ABS light does not follow this pattern, check the mounting of the deceleration sensor. If it is mounted in the correct location (see a manual for reference), the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
· On the older 1988-91 Nippondenso ABS systems, there are two relays mounted on the actuator (one for the pump motor and one for the solenoids). The solenoid relay has five terminals while the pump relay has four terminals.
On the pump motor relay, there should be continuity between terminals 1 and 2, but no continuity between terminals 3 and 4, or 1 and 4. If terminal 1 is jumped to battery positive and terminal 4 is jumped to ground, this should energize the relay (listen for a click). You should then find continuity between terminals 3 and 4.
On the solenoid relay, you should have continuity between terminals 1 and 3, but no continuity between terminals 2 and 4, or 4 and 5. The relay can be energized by connecting terminal 3 to battery positive and terminal 1. This should close the relay and create continuity between terminals 4 and 5.

Camry History
· On 1988 to 1991 Camrys with optional ABS, you’ll find a Nippondenso system built under Bosch license. The ABS actuator is located in the right front area of the engine compartment, and the ABS computer is located in the trunk under the rear deck.
· Starting in 1992, Toyota also began installing Bosch ABS systems in some of its Camrys. As a rule, Camrys assembled in Japan will have a Nippondenso ABS system, while those assembled in Kentucky will have a Bosch ABS system. Functionally, both systems work the same, but the actuators are not interchangeable. Also, the Bosch system has the computer mounted right on the actuator.
· In 1992, the location of the ABS computer for the Nippondenso systems was also moved to under the right kick panel inside the passenger compartment.
· In 1997, Toyota went to the next generation ABS system and began using the more compact Bosch 5.3 ABS in the U.S.-built Camrys and a Nippondenso 5.3 system for those made in Japan. But if a Camry was equipped with both ABS and traction control, it was always a Japanese-made model and got the Nippondenso ABS system.
Camry Fault Codes
The fault codes for the Bosch and Nippondenso ABS systems are similar, but each one has a few unique codes that are not used by the other. To simplify, we’ve combined the list.
11 - Open or short in solenoid relay circuit
12 - Short in solenoid relay circuit (Nippondenso only)
13 - Open or short in pump motor relay circuit
14 - Short in pump motor relay circuit (Nippondenso only)
21 - Open or short in RF ABS solenoid
22 - Open or short in LF ABS solenoid
23 - Open or short in RR ABS solenoid
24 - Open or short in LR ABS solenoid
31 - Malfunction RF wheel-speed sensor circuit
32 - Malfunction LF wheel-speed sensor circuit
33 - Malfunction RR wheel-speed sensor circuit
34 - Malfunction LR wheel-speed sensor circuit
35 - Open RF wheel-speed sensor circuit (Bosch only)
35 - Open in LF or RR wheel-speed sensor circuit (Nippondenso only)
36 - Open in LF wheel-speed sensor circuit (Bosch only)
36 - Open RF or LR wheel-speed sensor circuit (Nippondenso only)
37 - Rear speed sensor rotor malfunction (Bosch only)
38 - Open RR wheel-speed sensor circuit (Bosch only)
39 - Open LR wheel-speed sensor circuit (Bosch only)
41 - Battery voltage out of range (under 9.4v or over 17v)
51 - Actuator pump motor locked or pump motor circuit open
62 - Malfunction of ABS computer (Bosch only)

[gwar28]

So I have a 2001 Camry LE with Traction Control that has the ABS and trac off light on. I believe I fixed the problem. How do I clear the codes???
Thanks
Mark

[mbba]

just remove the wire from the battery for 30 sec. then fix it back that will rest your ecu and the light will go off if you fixed the problem.....

[marc780]

The alternator isnt hard to check, using a multimeter/ aka VOM. Put the probes on the battery with engine idling, 14 volts is what you want to see! The acceptable range is 13.9 to 15.0 volts.
If it reads less than 13.9v at idle yeah, it is time to change the alternator.

[skewe]

Originally Posted by gwar28

So I have a 2001 Camry LE with Traction Control that has the ABS and trac off light on. I believe I fixed the problem. How do I clear the codes???
Thanks
Mark

best way to clear the code.

take it to autozone, ask them to come diagnose the Check engine light for free.
Then ask him/her to clear the code.

[gwar28]

Originally Posted by skewe

best way to clear the code.

take it to autozone, ask them to come diagnose the Check engine light for free.
Then ask him/her to clear the code.

Except that autozone can only run engine codes.