Stripped bolt on stabilizer bar bushing into engine cradle

[BigPete]

I'm trying to change my front stab bar, and one of the bolts connecting the bushing into the engine cradle has a rounded head. What can I do to get the bolt out. I need to try to keep from ruining the bolt if possible.

[camryfour]

They make special sockets for those.



I would say try to take it out with that, and go to a junk yard and pluck one off another camry. If you can find one.

EDIT: I believe they sell them at Sears. OH BTW, some people have found these to be handy with those "security" lug nuts that you buy with a key.

[BigPete]

only one problem with that. I dont have enough room to fit a socket with a wrench over the bolt. I've been trying combinations of the 12mm socket with extensions, different driver sizes etc., but I can get the 12mm 1/4" socket over the bolt, but between the body, steering rack, and misc. engine panel, I can't get the wrench into the socket. I've been trying to get the open end of my 12mm wrench on, but I have enough room for about 1/8 of a turn, not enough to break the bolt loose. Basically if you look at your driver side wheel well, this is the bolt on the rear side of the bushing on the stabilizer bar. The other side came off with no prob, but of course there always has to be one.

Do they make like a super shallow socket for a 1/4 driver?

[camryfour]

Have you tried PB Catalyst? Maybe let it soak overnight.

[joandjo]

There is absolutely no room for the bolt-out. Sears also sells low profile bolt-out. But there is no room for ratchet.

I changed mine about 2 months ago after soaking in penerating oil for good three days.



I used 12 points wrench. I could turn exactly 1/12th of turn. So it took 12 trials to make one full turn. It took me more than 3 hours in total.

As suggested by camryfour, soak in good penerating oil. You can also try torch method.

Good luck

[Eye8Pussies]

sounds like a torch would be your best friend, since there's a reason why it got stripped in the first place....

good luck

[Novice_cardude]

torch, oil, whichever you choose will work, and i'd invest in some gear wrenches to make the actual extraction easier. I don't have them at work but I borrow them from time to time and they're a life saver...

[Mike Gerber]

I would stay away from the torch, if at all possible. The torch will burn up the bushing; then if you can't get the bolt out you are up the creek. You asked about a short socket. Why not go buy a cheap socket in the size you need and grind it down on a bench grinder to the length you feel you need. You might also consider buying a flex drive socket in the size you need. Just a couple of thoughts.

Mike

[BigPete]

Thanks for the help.

Well, even though taking a torch to things is in my nature, I'm gonna pass cause I've got lines (possible fuel) right above the bolt.

That's a good idea about the bench grinder, but I don't have access to a bench grinder.

I ended up soaking the bolt in oil, but only the bushing came loose (go figure.) At 2 a.m., I decided to just pull the bushing cover out of the way to get the bar out.

I spent another few hours trying to get the new bar in, but any time I got the bar positioned, the passenger side endup being on top of the tie rod, not beneath it. I'm trying to decide is I should just mark the tie rod and pull it apart to get the bar through. Another option is that it looks like the steering rack is held by two bolts that I could undo and just lift the rack up and the position the bar, but I kinda think that it may be more work that its worth.

[Digger1]

One can make what amounts to a very low profile ratchet using the following buildup:

First, get the proper sized socket. I recommend a six-point socket for tough bolts.

Next, get a good set of "Gearwrench" style wrenches. I like the ones with a zero offset angle.

Finally, these two components go together using what is called a "socket cap."

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00943303000

I've found this combo to be very handy in a lot of circumstances.

Good luck!