At a loss...need help (pwr windows)

[Redline]

If anyone can help me solve this problem, it would be greatly appreciated.

Situation...Point-form notes:
- pass. side pwr window doesn't go down.
- neither pass. switch nor master switch can operate the pass. window.
- tried a different window motor...result: not the cause for window failure.
- test: pass. switch will operate motor to go UP, but not DOWN.
- test: master switch will NOT operate motor, UP or DOWN.
- both tests are with a working motor, not connected to linkage, so I can hear the motor "whirring" in one direction (UP) and not the other (DOWN).
- HYPOTHESIS: it's GOTTA be electrical, but not sure how to isolate/solve problem.

Suggestions? It's summer, it's getting hella hot, and I don't want my passengers to cook to death.

Redline

[Redline]

Anyone?

[Doctor J]

Similar issue like this on my customer's car turned out to be a master switch.

[Redline]

^ will a replacement be enough to solve the problem?

note: I can still open the remaining windows (driver, driver-rear, pass-rear) with the master switch...just not the pass.-front

Thx for your reply!

Redline

[Eye8Pussies]

interesting....it sounds like your passenger side switch- especially since it can go up, but not down, and that youre master switch doesn't work

if it was just your master switch, I'd say maybe the wiring in hte door jam that sometimes breaks from repeated bending, but since your passenger switchstill works one way, I'd say it's the switch- I htink the master switch hooks up into hte passenger switch

[Redline]

^ yah, that's what I thot too, but I pulled a replacement from a wrecker yard (Standard Auto) and I get the same result as with the old pass. switch. It's really weird, which is why I'm so frustrated

Thx for your input, Eye8pussies. Keep the suggestions coming, everyone!

[Your Uncle Moe]

I have the same proble, but on the rear left window. In my situation 1 of the wires got freyed in between the door and the A-Pillar. Window goes down, but not up. The switches r all fine and i replaced almost all the switches for no reason till I found the problem.

Heres how I get the window up after some jackass in the rear seat brings the window down(U shoudl try this):

MAKE SURE THE KEY IS TURNED ON SO U CAN USE YOUR WINDOWS. (Sounds stupid but I keep making this mistake)
Hold the switch in the down position and have the door open. While holding the button down, jiggle on the rubber piece holding the wires. If it does go down then theres your problem. 1 of those wires got freyed and needs to be changed. In my situation, its so deep in the pillar, I cant read it and just opted to leave it the way it is

[Doctor J]

What the pass. switch actually does, it interrupts power connection to the master switch while connecting to the own power wire, at the same time it uses remaining wire connected to the ground path of the master switch. All switches are double pole 3 position switches. This sytem is so complicated because since 1983 Toyota started to use two brush DC motors.
The wires and switches got smaller in size compared to old type 3 brush bi-directional motors found on 79 Supra.Such old system worked without trouble despite worn regulator hardware.
I believe Autozone.com has electrical schematic for pwr windows.

[Kep]

I'm with Gridlyne. Similar thing happened with my '90 Camry and it turned out to be a broken ground wire (there are two) feeding my master switch. I first noticed when the door was open it wouldn't work and when closed it would. Later, it didn't work at all unless I grabbed the rubber boot around the wires passing through to the door. I routed two wires through the tube (tight fit on the driver's side) and it worked fine. Of course, now another function is going out. I figure that when I added two wires I squished another one and it broke. Darn... By the way, I found that a strip of metal from the side of a winshield wiper blade worked great as a wire puller.

Kep