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I recently changed my water pump, cooling fluid, water pump, oil pump seals, distributor seals, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, cam seal, crankshaft seal, and timming belt on my '91 3sfe with auto transmission...
However, my car has just stopped running! I dont think it's the timming because I ran the car for about 10 or 15 minutes last night after getting everything put back together, and then I drove to work and back today with no real problems, the car ran nice and smooth... However, I went to turn it around this evening to flush the coolant, and it stalled as soon as I put the car into gear!
After that everytime I try putting it into gear, the engine stalls out, and now it will hardly start, and when it does I need to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running...
Could it be a vacum leak, or the idle air control valve?
Could be the distributor, try changing it, maybe it's too dirty.
Maybe, but I doubt it, as when I can get the car to start, it runs fine when I keep my foot on the trotle, but when I take my foot off it dips to 1200rpm, then it just stalls out and dies... plus I just replaced the ignitor becuase the old one was almost craked in half...
Also, I've noticed that before this when I'm slowing down from around 30ish to a stop, the rpms seem to feather between 1100 and 1400 before it goes down to 1st gear...
Since you replaced many pumps, seals and gaskets, you may want to go back and check for vacuum leaks or sensor connections. Something gotta be loose or leaking.
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PomaN
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99 Original Solara SLE SC@5lb - Original (yup) TRD suspension and muffler (sold)
Could it be a vacuum leak? I just got it running for a little bit after checking the ECC codes, and I noticed that if I goosed the throtle a little bit, instead of setling down nicely, the rpms would drop very low, very quickly... however, this wouldnt explain why the car stalls when I shift into gear would it?
Oih, I might have to bring the car to a mechanic shop I know to figure this one out.... ahhh...
Last edited by Rogue10186; 07-10-2006 at 11:59 PM.
1. Sounds like a fuel or air issue, not an electrical ditto. So, what changed while you did all the work to the engine? Its possible something was knocked out of adjustment or came loose. Check vacuum hoses and connections.
2. Check your throttle position sensor. I had this problem after i cleaned my TBI. My engine is a newer V6 but the circumstances were the same as yours - worked on the engine then it stalled and wouldnt start. I found out by trial and error, adjusted the throttle and it ran fine.
Without knowing about all of the replacements that you made I would suspect the IAC valve, throttle body and maybe the EGR valve.
However, knowing that you were working on the distributor (how hard was it to replace the inner seal?) I would want you to exonerate the repairs that you made and verify that you didn't break any of the sensors on the water pipe(cold start timer, temp sensor, and the two with vacuum tubes coming off. Also, check the spark plug wire resistance and make sure you didn't break one of those (should be about 20k ohms) and verify that the air supply tube from the air filter to the throttle body is secured and undamaged. You didn't mess with the MAF did you?
Ok, I checked the throtle body and IAC valve and cleaned both out really well with carb cleaner...
After I put it back together, I started the car when it was comepletly cold and it ran but it idled high, around 1800ish. However, once the temp got to the normal operating area (needle at the E on temp) the idle began fluctuating quickly between 700 and 1500rpms for about a minute untill I tried putting it into reverse and it died. Now it will harldy start at all.
I keep returning to the throttle body. There are 3 vacuum ports on the top of the throttle body. I am not sure just how they work but at different temps and different speeds they are affected by the position of the butterfly valve in the throttle body combined with signals from one or both of the temperature sensors with vacuum hoses on them located on that metal water pipe with the ECT temp sensor on it (any of which you may have bumped and damaged when foraging around the distributor). I'd go back and verify that those three ports are clear again and I'd verify the correct vacuum signal from the three hoses. I'm pretty sure there is a procedure described in the manual. Check the dumb stuff over, connectors firm and vacuum hoses secure.
While you're in the area you might check the throttle position sensor resistance readings. I don't think it would be affecting you but what the heck?
I just replaced the ECT sensor on the coolant pipe on the drivers side of the enigne, and almost no effect, it's still idling wierd, then once it got to the normal temp range, the engine did it's rev up and down thing again, and when I tried to put it into gear while at the normal temps it just died...
Ok, so what the hell am I missing? I checked the vacum lines on the throtle body and the ones on the coolant pipe, so what the hell could be wrong?
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narrowing the problem down....
Linear Mode
