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I have been having the strangest problem with my camry. When it get's warm, it has been stalling on me, and sometimes won't restart until it is cold. I put a new distributor, ecm (computer), and adjusted the throttle position sensor. That helped a bit, but not when it warms up, the throttle goes up to about 3,000 rpm. For example, when I started it up after it was already warm, the tachometer went up to 3,000 rpm and then back down to 850. Any ideas on what to do next?
Originally posted by dubell I have been having the strangest problem with my camry. When it get's warm, it has been stalling on me, and sometimes won't restart until it is cold. I put a new distributor, ecm (computer), and adjusted the throttle position sensor. That helped a bit, but not when it warms up, the throttle goes up to about 3,000 rpm. For example, when I started it up after it was already warm, the tachometer went up to 3,000 rpm and then back down to 850. Any ideas on what to do next?
had the same problem ... its your internal coil . its inside the distributor ... IT needs to be replaced...
ok, I think the next thing I am going to try is the idle control. I called my local toyota dealer and they also mentioned that. He also mentioned the egr valve. I'll check out the O2 sensor and connection to the thermostat.
the thing is the car is in open loop until warm
meaning the computer disregards the readings from most sensors
like o2 sensor and some others until warm
is it possible that it is the o2 is bad but
probably not as it would still run with a defective one
just very rich for fuel ratio , so it wouldn't stall
egr also probably not it would stumble have a good amount of power loss,plus they usually stick open or closed but can't make an engine stall,idle rought though yes,as it only recurculates exhuast air back into the combustion chamber to decrease emmisions of unburnt gas
thermostat also can't shut off a car only tell the computer the wrong temp meaning it will either run open loop still or take into account the rest of the sensors and tell you on a gauge also turn the fan on to cool it
it really does sound like an ignition problem with a resistor that is going open when hot from the additional resistance
when you try and start the car after it dies does it actually start but dies as soon as you let go of the key?
as some ignitions have this bypass feature for starting with increased output but goes to regualr when started ,so if there is a problem with that cuircut it dies over and over again
When it does stall, it SOEMTIMES does not want to restart. After several attempts, it does finally start, but I usually do have to pump the gas to keep it alive. Once I get going, it behaves fine. Also, when I approach a stop sign and I notice it is about to stall, I pump the gas and this keeps it from stalling.
Remember, I did put in a new distributor. It seems like something is telling the car to not idle correctly.
try cleanning the throttle plate again
or see if someone can help you do it as it can be a bit weird besides just spraying the can down the inlet
the screw i thinnk is made in the intake and is not supposed to be manually changed
it is controlled by the ecu
and vacum hoses
but if the idle vacum line goes off it causes the bladder in the idle controller to rev the engine to about 3000 by opening the throttle when no vacum is present incase of this problem so youi can still drive home to get fixed
also if you start the car let it warm up without driving it will the car stall
even though it is still in the driveway?
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