1992 Lexus Es300 ABS Problem

[Anovice]

I have a 1992 Es300, which I understand is basically the same car as the 1992 Camry. About one year ago, my ABS light would come on intermittently. Possibly not when I started the car and drove away, but it would almost always come on when I used the brakes at the first light or stop sign (and feel it too). In the one year time span I had my tires rotated twice and after the first time, the ABS light would stay mostly off. After the second time, the light would stay mostly on. Now, the ABS light is on all the time.

A few weeks ago I brought the car to the local mechanic. He came up with code 32 and 35. Code 32 is front left wheel speed sensor signal malfunction. Code 35 is open circuit in front left or rear right speed sensor circuit. For whatever reason he felt the code 32 problem was caused by a broken wire from the left front wheel to the module. He replaced the wire and at least tells me that problem is solved, but the code 35 problem remains. He feels that problem is caused by the ECU. Others say they have never seen a Toyota ECU fail and that the problem is probably associated with a wheel sensor.

Bottom line is, after spending some money, I still do not have ABS and I know next to nothing about cars. I gather it could be a sensor, broken, misaligned, or the pich-up wheel damaged...but the front left or rear right? The front left sensor cost about $108 + labor and the rear right cost about $157 + labor. Maybe the sensors are good and the problem is in a broken wire. Or, maybe it is the ECU. If it is the ECU, I assume I can buy one on ebay. Which year(s) Camry could be used in a 1992 Es300? Someone else felt that the wheel bearings get worn out and they make the sensor seperate further which makes the magnetic hall sensor not see the CV joint turn, which causes the error. If so, that would mean a new sensor and hub to fix the problem. I thought the local mechanic would be able to fix the problem as he seems competent, but no such luck.

Or, should I call the local Toyota dealer (service) and set up an appointment to determine the problem? Or, as the car has 150,000 miles, maybe the answer is to do nothing and live without ABS. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[toyomoho]

A few thoughts:

Code 32
Malfunction of left front wheel speed sensor signal. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector.

Code 35:
Open in left front or right rear wheel speed sensor circuit. Check speed sensor, sensor rotor, wiring harness and connector.

A shop with the proper equipment should be able to test the speed sensor on the car. It basically sends out pulses based on axle RPM. The Toyota service manual has procedures for testing the wiring and other systems. The Toyota dealer should be able to test the system completely.

The sensor may need cleaning. See link below:

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/engl...0030701as.html

The bearing could be worn out. Guessing if this is the problem, the shop should be able to detect this with the hub still on the car. In many cases you would be hearing the worn bearing growl as you drive, feel vibration, etc.

Your choice is finding a shop that can handle ABS systems, the dealer, swapping parts. Can’t say which one is best. Can say there are procedures for testing the system, they don’t appear that complicated, but do require some equipment like an oscilloscope.

[islandboy57]

I can't help you with the problem, but a friend of mine has an '89 Legend and she's just living without ABS. On the older cars it's expensive to fix things like this - but for your ES300 you can take parts from a Camry as well so at least you'll have better availability of parts.

Have you thought about bringing the car to a shop that specializes in brakes?

[Anovice]

The local mechanic I took the car to, mainly does brakes. He 'seemed' to know what he was doing, but appeared to become confused after he was getting a reading from each speed sensor, drawing the conclusion the problem was in the ECU. But, others, including the folks on the Lexus Forum feel the problem is not the ECU and more likely a sensor. The $10,000 question is, which one. I do not know anyone else to look at the car.

Monday I will call the local Toyota dealership. If I can spend for 1 hour labor and find the exact cause of th problem, this would be worth my while. I know the cost of the sensors on line and the per hour labor cost of my local mechanic, and I can compare this to the dealer cost to fix the problem.

Does this sound like a good plan?

[toyomoho]

Sounds good, no need to guess at changing parts. The dealer should be able to properly diagnosis the problem, then give an estimate without needed to swap out parts.

[islandboy57]

Yep, sounds like a good plan. Keep us updated.. The dealer should have more sophisticated equipment to determine the problem -- you'll just have to fiercely deny getting it fixed right then and there

[Anovice]

Well, I am on a roll! Looks like I am out another $180. The L/F speed sensoe cost me $120 on line and $60 for the mechanic to install...and the ABS light is still on.

As mentioned, the Toyota dealership diagnosed the problem as needing the L/F speed sensor, which is on the "customer copy" of the invoice. They did not charge for the diagnosis (see, you get what you pay for), but since they wanted $360 to change the sensor, I went a different route.

While I know nothing about cars, I watched the local mechanic do the repairs. He did change the sensor which took all of 15 minutes. He then took off the battery cable t clear code 35. As my luck would have it, the air bag light came on and would not go off. I think it was code 41. In any case, he cleared that though the ecu. He then proceeded to clear (or try) code 35 through the ecu. He followed the instructions from the manual posted on this forum...by jumping terminals Tc and E1 on DLC1, removing the short pin from DLC1, and then pressing the brake pedel eight times or more within three seconds with the key on.

The one thing I am not 100% certain of is if the ABS light ever went off (and then came back on). I am 100% certain cde 35 is back as I personally watched it blink 3 times and then 5 times.

I now have about $250 into it and still the ABS light is constantly on. Are there other suggestions? Please help! Thanks, Anovice.