Depends on how far you want to take the head porting & cam profiles. If you take it to the extremes you can turn any 2.0L'ish 4 cylinder into a 7400 to 9000rpm 270-350hp engines. Most of them falling around 260-320hp.
Here's the thing. Cost VS performance.
Block:
- - Blue printed and squared - $500-750 during assembly
- - Block Bored 0.40'' - $220 per block sleeve, $40 per cylinder to bore & hone
- - Knife edged crank - $400 ($200 setup, $50 per counterweight)
- - performance rings and wrist pins - $94 for high end ring set (Deves) ,$10 per teflon button & $15 per fitting & $35 per chrome moly pin
- - toga high performance main and rod bearings -
- - toga high velocity oil pump -
- - high compression forged pistons (prolly 9.5:1 compression is the best i can get away with, with 91 octane.) - You won't be able to drive this car on 9.5:1 compression pistons with the head & valvetrain you're shooting for. You MUST raise the compression to compensate for the extreme low end loss as cam profiles & head porting grow to support higher flow @ higher rpm. You're looking at 11.0:1 to 12.0:1 MINIMUM just to get it to run well.
$420 set of pistons, $10 per overbored piston, $10 per non-standard compression piston, $15 per ceramic coated piston, $10 each per glasspeened, balanced, oil holes drilled in bosses, lightened, knurled piston skirts.
Head:
- - port and polish w/ 3 angle valve job and blending of intake and exhaust runners...
Get a GOOD 3-angle valvejob done. Concentrate heavily on unshrouding the valves, cleaning the bowl & cutting down the short side radious. Everything else should come at the end of the list of things to pay to be done.
Expect $700 for a good starting port & valve job, $50/c for equaling cylinder volume, $30/port for gasket / manifold matching (blah)
- - oversized valves w/ high performance valve springs. - Be ready to pay $25-60 per valve, $4 per inner & $8 per out valve spring
- - reground cams... not too sure yet still have to calculating funding... - The rule of thumb is $200-220 per reground cam. For real useage you'll want them nickle welded, which will cost $50 per lobe.
btw, you're still breathing through the stock exhaust & intake manifolds.
That's gunna be real nice LoL!
The heart wants what it wants, but it's a really bad idea in the long run. You'll have a stressed out, expencive, one-off engine that will want new gear ratios to suite it's now found high rpm powerband. You could easily be looking at a $7000 engine by the time you're done if you have a high end builder make you a REAL engine that will survive street & track use. Hell we haven't even gotten to how you're going to have to go MegasquirtII & Spark with a ford ignition 'cause you can't afford aftermarket EMS yet!
(Not that anything i wrong with MS...)
Look... Sell the car & buy something else. If you love it, buy a v6 version of what you have, or an upgrade to it like an ES.
or, put a 1mz-fe in it. People think California engine swap laws are all anal retentive. They're not. It simply has to be an engine that is newer than the one you're replacing, and it has to retain all of it's emessions equipment.
Let's talk about the average torque output of the engine you're proposing to make. It's a race engine. Not a driving engine. I gave a range of about 260-320hp for your average really prepped i4 N/A race engine that'll actually drive somewhere.
So how about we look at a dyno of a 260-270hp ish S2000.
At this point in the discussion you:
Do not have the gearing setup *exactly* to match your powerband like this Honda does (which is exactly why Honda's get away with no low powerband - gear out of it)
Nor do you have the advantage of cam trickery. You are practically going to take your powerband under 3500rpm & cut whatever you're making now by atleast a third on a big build. The ports will not maintain velocity & the cams will be too wild.
Now compare the above torque output to a bone stock 1mz-fe:
The average torque output is about the same for well under 1/2 price on the 1mz-fe swap. So you *really* think building an i4 is a good idea?
FYI, when you short the SP1 of an A/T ECU, then run the solenoid control signals to ground with a 10w resistor. It's practically an M/T ECU. The idle, however, may be alittle finiky when coming to a stop.
5sfe...Dun Sonnnn!
Linear Mode
