Brake Caliper Issue? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

trssvx · 12-24-2006, 07:14 PM

Hey. My '97 Camry has new pads and rotors (< 7,000 miles). However, I started to have a "growling" sound when I put on the brakes a few weeks ago. Now, I feel a vibration when braking and at speed.

I checked the wheels after a short trip (< 5 miles) with only light and moderate braking. My passenger side wheel was warm to the touch but the driver's side wheel was HOT.

I have not had time to jack the car up but I am assuming a the driver's side caliper has locked up, creating intense heat causing the new rotor to warp). Any other thoughts on what it might be?

(I have checked a lot of web sites on changing the calipers, including this one. This seems fairly simple. I have done pads and rotors...so I do not think this is a huge leap for me. Does anyone believe it would be too tough?

In addition, I figure I would go with the Raybestos load calipers with the ceramic pads and new Raybestos low noise rotors. All of this looks to be around $270 - $300 from Advance Auto Parts. Any thoughts on the Raybestos products?

Thanks for anythoughts . . .

somick · 12-24-2006, 09:44 PM

The caliper may be just stock sideways. Before you replace it make sure it easely slides on its rods.

Sam

Mike Gerber · 12-25-2006, 12:46 PM

I have had pretty good luck with Raybestos products, but like Semyonlibman says, check the slide pins on the caliper on the driver's side. You may find one that is sticking and not allowing the caliper to retrack, and you can either free it up and lubricate it and reuse it, or pull it out and replace it with a new one and a new rubber boot. That and some new high temperture disc brake grease may solve your problem. Then you can just turn the rotor on that side (if necessary) and you should be OK. That would be a lot cheaper than replacing everything, when everything may not be needed. I had a 98 where one of the slide pins on that side frooze and that was the only necessary repair. Just be sure to clean all the rust out of the hole in the caliper mounting bracket where that slide pin goes in and relube the hole before reinserting the new lubed slide pin. It takes about 2 seconds if you have a beed blaster or sand blaster available. If not, sand paper wrapped around a pencil will work. If you find that the piston inside the calliper is stuck/seized, then the caliper itself must rebuilt or replaced.

Good luck.

Mike

trssvx · 12-26-2006, 08:00 PM

Thanks for the help...it worked. I did not need to buy new calipers. In fact, once it was in working condition, I slid some new pads in and everything works great.

Great information.

TRS

Digger1 · 12-26-2006, 08:16 PM

trs,

Good news!

For the record, exactly what did you do?

marc780 · 02-04-2007, 08:46 AM

Dig I think it sounds like he just changed the rotors and lubed the caliper pins and this freed up things

trssvx · 02-04-2007, 04:20 PM

Must have missed the email on the previous post. Can't tell you everything that was done...I did not do all the work. However, I think for the most part you are correct. I did not change the rotors. To my surprise, they were fine. The pads were changed and the brakes were "cleaned and greased" (I assume the caliper pin you mentioned).