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Hi all,
I just got a automatic camry 1996 le, few months ago. I changed the spark plugs, engine control rod, the water, oil, air filter and thermostat. The car is running nice and smooth when it is moving, when it is in idle, at the light (with break on drive or reverse) the stirring wheel shake (fast shake). I don't understand why it is not doing it in Nutual or park? Could it be something wrong with my transmition?
My car has a check Engine light on all the time. It ran cold in the high way, so I change the thermostat. The thermostat was rusted open all the time, could this accelerate the ICV being dirty ?
How do I apply Sea Form?
I agree.
Jumper TE1 and E1, there should be a noticeable change in rpm. If there's no change in rpm or if it stalls out, suspect a faulty Idle speed control valve as mentioned. Very common problem on older camrys.
You didn't mention which engine the vehicle has, nor how many miles on it, but I will assume it's the 4 cylinder 5SFE engine. Some vibration in idle in drive or reverse is normal for this generation 5SFE engine. It's just the nature of the beast.
I do however have 2 suggestions for you. First, your 96 is OBD2 compliant. That means you can go to a place like Autozone and have them check for any codes for you. This is a free service. If you do have a code, this will give you some direction on where to start looking for a problem, if there is one. If there are no codes present, the second suggestion I have is to do a thorough throttle body cleaning. You can clean the idle air control valve while you are in there. There is a square or diamond shaped passage leading to the idle air control valve inside the throttle body. Do a search on this forum for "throttle body cleaning". It has been covered numerous times and there are some good threads on it with some good pictures. The cleaning may smooth out the vibration a bit.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 02-18-2007 at 12:46 PM.
After I got the car I ran it on the high way, and it started to have huge vibration on the engine. I turned out the guy sold me the car had the tire pressure at 50psi, after that I had to replace both front tires. And later I replaced the engine control rot. When I change the engine control rod I had a hard time getting it in place, but manage to do it. While I was changing the rod I change the spark plug as well. When I drove the car I feel the shake on start of Drive and Reverse, but smooth above 1000rpm. If the problem is the engine mount why doesn't it affect park and nutual?
Since the car shakes at idle and not at netural or park, it seems more like engine mounts problem to me.
This is always a posibility. What solved it for me after I changed everything you mentioned above (hell, I had the engine out and put on a new timing belt, water pump, oil pump, gaskets, orings, plugs, wires, mounts, you name it) I finally rechecked the timing and found out that instead of the 10 deg the service manual calls out for, I was at about 5 deg. I adjusted it, and my idle went up just enough to almost eliminate the vibration at the steering wheel.
__________________ Current Ride(s): 08 Pontiac G8, 02 Mitsubishi Lancer, 94 GMC Sierra
Former Ride(s): 93 Camry SE V6 5-Speed , 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
And later I replaced the engine control rot. When I change the engine control rod I had a hard time getting it in place, but manage to do it. While I was changing the rod I change the spark plug as well.Thanks
Maybe this is a regional expression, but in over forty years working on cars, I've never come across an "engine control rod."
Are you talking about an engine torgue strut, or "dogbone?"
yes, they are the same, on the manual it is call engine control rod and people tell me it is the mount strut "dog bone".
I use to use 87 octane gas, a few days ago, I added 89 octane gas and the engine seems to be running smoother on stop light stop. Could this mean, it more likely need IAC and throttle control val cleaning?
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, 95 Camry DX 4-cyl
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