Camry electronic problem - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

speedemn · 01-18-2002, 04:24 PM

I have a 1993 4cyl Camry. About a year and a half ago I got a full audio system in it that is quite powerful. The subs are 2 x 15" at 500W RMS each (Eclipse Aluminum subs). I do not have a capacitor.

I also do have the unorthodox underdrive pulley.

A couple of days ago I was sitting in a McDonalds parking lot in PARK with the engine on, idling. I had the system going and everything and then all of a sudden, for the first time ever, I saw the battery indicator light up on my dash along with the parking light indicator.

Now I know that because I am underdriving my accessories, plus the long term effects of the sound system has probably taken a toll on my battery and/or alternator.

My question is, what do you guys recommend I do now? Replace alternator? Replace alternator+battery? When replacing the alternator, can I get a beefier one and if so, from where? I heard that a bass capacitor will not prevent this from happening again even with new alternator+battery.

I need some help answering those questions. Thank you.

SpectraBlueCam · 01-18-2002, 05:15 PM

You hit the nail on the head there Anish. But I think the culprit is the underdrive pulley. While you're idling, the battery isn't getting charged while its pumping out the beats. I say the best (cheapest) way is to replace the battery if its a relatively aged one. Then the alternator if necessary. As I understand it, the capacitor won't do much good if the battery isn't strong to begin with.

***EKam*** · 01-18-2002, 05:19 PM

But when the engine is ON, you're not running from the battery, so I don't think it has much to do with it IMO.

You can also check and see if any shops can rebuild your alternator to higher amp rating.

speedemn · 01-18-2002, 05:33 PM

I talked to Basil and he said he can test the battery and alternator out if I took it into his shop (as can Toyota here, but who knows how much they will charge).

But signs point to it being an alternator problem, but I'm hoping that it is just battery so I can just get that replaced for much less.

Another thing is that Toyota might want to charge me more (as they always do) so they might "recommend" replacing both battery+alternator, so that's why I would like to take it to a more trusted source... maybe Canadian Tire?? I'm sure they have the machine to test all those things too??

speedemn · 01-18-2002, 05:34 PM

Jeff, I wonder if you and I both have the same alternator. Basil said that he would look at your alternator when you see him tomorrow. Do you know the specs on yours?

I'm willing to bet that they are the same but I don't know. I want a beefier one if possible though. The stock is 60 amps for my 4cyl and 70 amps for the V6 for my year. I wonder if they stayed the same in following years.

***EKam*** · 01-18-2002, 05:38 PM

Mine's 80A.

speedemn · 01-18-2002, 05:39 PM

I wonder if one like yours would fit in my alternator area, and also if there is one stronger than 80A that we can get that would be a fit in there too.

Quote:

On 2002-01-18 18:38, elegantcam wrote:
Mine's 80A.

***SCEPTER300RR*** · 01-18-2002, 08:48 PM

im using a phoenix gold alternator to run the amps hard... and a capacitor to boot.. also the optima yellow top battery ... so even with the pulley running im ok... been fine for about 1 year and a half now... so far so good... i think u can check out phoenix gold they sell alternators... make sure u dont get a chrome one because they hheat up so fast and also because of the heat they will break much easier ...( plus cost more) so just get a normal one.. im putting out approx 120A so no draw and load on the battery once the car is running...

also in ur case if the alternator is not supplying enough power to ur system it will start pulling power from the battery... that's why u got the charge light come on ... make sure ur car has sufficient load b4 cranking up the beats the pulley does shorten the load on the alternator so it will lower the Amps it puts out... good luck dude write to phoenix gold .. i think they are like the only one that can make alternators as far as i know... taht are good.. otherwise u can get ur old alternator go to an alternator shop get it re wound and put up to approx 90 A or 100A i think they max it out at about 110A i heard someone did that b4... its a cheap way to go... u might want to try it out as well..

lates... good luck anish.. let me know what happend..

Jzs147-RR · 01-19-2002, 10:10 AM

I did a swap into a civic(200Amp Limo altonator) and it was easy but in my Camry I think a 100-120Amp would be very good for when I add my sub and stuff.Keep me informed man I hope its a easy and cheap swap on our cars.Imagine with my stock stuff now my radio is able to dim my lights and it also dims when i open the doors and put on the hazards.I know I need a new batery but I think a new altenator is smart too.

***EKam*** · 01-19-2002, 03:27 PM

Hey Ben I think replacing your alternator with higher Amp rating will give you some boost for your S/C.

speedemn · 01-20-2002, 03:35 PM

Okay I took my car in to Basil to be tested and they found that the battery was low on fluid in all 6 cells. It was a Motomaster battery. Basil recommended that I replace the battery with a good one (Interstate). So I went ahead and spent $150 and got a good one... higer capacity, higher CCA, better quality... etc.

Then I took my old Motomaster battery back to Canadian Tire where I got it from over 3 years ago to see if they can refund me the pro-rated charge which they said they could do. However when they put it on the tester it came out good! They said that the fluid level could be topped up and the battery would be as good as before.

With the old battery dying on me, I had to run my car with my stereo off, and keep the revs higher than idle as much as I could. With the new battery everything seems fine.

Now my question is, did I just waste $150 on a new battery... or even if I had the fluid topped up in my old battery would I expect to have the same "check battery" light come on my dash and dimming lights problem in a few days??

SpectraBlueCam · 01-20-2002, 05:04 PM

I say keep the Interstate one. Use your Motomaster one as paperweight. :grin:

Seriously though, the Motomaster one was not the right size for your car. I'm sure you're better off with the interstate one.

***Silver Streak*** · 01-20-2002, 05:19 PM

You probably could have got away with the Motomaster one (although, those are probably the worst batteries on the market, I've returned about 3 of them...) but if it was too small, then you might as well change it. I don't know how small it was but if the temp ever drops below -10 or -15, your car may not start...why risk that? I recommend getting a battery with 850 CCA, I bought a DieHard one from Sears, only $110. No probs for the last year.

speedemn · 01-20-2002, 05:52 PM

Basil told me that the Interstate 800 CCA (1000 CA) was the highest in the market!!! (I knew he was wrong) :smile: It cost me $115 + tax for that alone.

Jeff, I know the Motomaster isn't much better than paperweight but the bottomline remains at whether I should spend $150 now or $150 later on and make do with the Motomaster for now. I am in school and every $ I can save helps! But I don't know if Basil will take back the Interstate.