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30,000miles on single oil change(how to help my car?)
I am a seven days old owner of 2002 Camry V6 with 27,500.- miles. I bought this car from bank auction (repo.). I have loved the car. It was extremely neglected in and out by WOMAN who had drove it. The bitch never changes the oil. The first time I drove the car, I had notice oil light coming on when breaking. Right after I came home, I have tried to change oil, and I was able to drain ½ quart of old, black, thick, liquid that use to be oil. Original Toyota oil filter!! Next morning, I went to mechanic for tune-up every thing seemed to be o.k. He did motor flush, and took valve cover off (large build-up of gunk).
Only problem I have is: on cold start-up car smokes (big cloud) of white smoke for about five seconds, then its perfect. I don’t see any smoke when driving (I purposely drove behind it to see). What is going on? Is it all the gunk melting? Help!!!!!!
smoke?it might be your valve sells it is comin on the V6 but not after only 27,000 mils,but never changing the oil did it.after a long time the sells will get worse .i dont like "machanic in a can"but try use in engine restore it is in a silver can. it worked reel good on my 66 mustang.also try running synthetic oil that might help clean out the motor.
Re: 30,000miles on single oil change(how to help my car?)
Quote:
Originally posted by Rob-D I am a seven days old owner of 2002 Camry V6 with 27,500.- miles. I bought this car from bank auction (repo.). I have loved the car. It was extremely neglected in and out by WOMAN who had drove it. The bitch never changes the oil. The first time I drove the car, I had notice oil light coming on when breaking. Right after I came home, I have tried to change oil, and I was able to drain ½ quart of old, black, thick, liquid that use to be oil. Original Toyota oil filter!! Next morning, I went to mechanic for tune-up every thing seemed to be o.k. He did motor flush, and took valve cover off (large build-up of gunk).
Only problem I have is: on cold start-up car smokes (big cloud) of white smoke for about five seconds, then its perfect. I don’t see any smoke when driving (I purposely drove behind it to see). What is going on? Is it all the gunk melting? Help!!!!!!
I guess this would not be covered by Toyota's sludge warranty, because of the "no oil change" thing...
Run it on Mobil 1, 5w30 full synthetic for a few frequent oil changes and see what happens - I get a feeling this stuff actually cleans-up your engine. Have been running it in mine for 40K+ (out of 70) and anything metal I can see in the engine is shiny and absolutely no sludging traces...
Plus, use a fuel injector and throttle body cleaner
Actually he is not covered by Toyotas warrenty of sludge. He has a 2002 and the warrenty only covers up until 2001 so he is SOL. Your only chance is to rebuild the engine dude. Trust me I know I work at a Toyota dealership and have seen a lot of sludge motors come in and the only way to fix it without having problems later is rebuild the motor.
Well it doesn't matter if he has the money or not. Trying other stuff isn't going to fix this problem. Like I said the only way to fix it is to rebuild the engine. Believe me you can't get all that sludge out unless you take the whole engine apart. I would know I have done at least 10 sludge motor rebuilds and my shop alone has done over 100 so beleive me I know what I am talking about. If you keep driving it you are going to end up burning up your crank and other internals and have to buy a new crank and everything with the rebuild so I suggest you do the rebuild as soon as you can or else it will cost you even more.
See, thats why I stay far far away from repo's, Think about it....If they can't make the payment on the car, you think they care about taking care of the engine? NO! Dude.....sell that car, trade it in.....take it back to place of purchase, just GET RID OF HER! Then go beat the previous owner down with a stick and make her eat a plate of that sludge *just kidding* I wouldn't want to rebuild a engine after buying a car *again* its not worth it and you will end up losing more money in the end. If you decide to rebuild it....mabey check into a engine swap *if ya got the money*. If I was you, Id 1 be very pissed and go scream at the people that sold me the car, 2 change the oil, drive it hard, change the oil again, repeat that process, Ive always had my oil changed 2 times every 3,000 miles. I always change my oil when I first get a new car until it is clear coming out the bottom, 60$ in oil is better than thousands later :P Good luck, sorry to hear that. Ive been in your boat, only with no paddles floating down sh!ts creek twards the water fall.
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1991 Lexus ES250, 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE
Someone mentioned that the cause of your engine smoking at cold crank up is because of the valve seals. I agree that is the likely cause...however due to the lack of changing oil you may find that the fresh oil change might recondition the valve seals unless they are physically damaged instead of just gunked up.
I would drive the car with whatever fresh oil and filter you now have in it for a couple of weeks and then change the oil and filter once again. I would suggest using a synthetic oil in 0W-30 or 5W-30. (Mobil 1 makes the 0W-30.) Synthetic oil cleans much better than mineral oil and that is what you especially want at this time in order to losen up any remaining mineral oil build-up inside the engine. The 0W-30 or 5W-30 oil will aid in getting oil to all parts of your engine as quickly as possible at initial engine start-up regardless of ambient temperature. 90% of all engine wear is caused at engine start-up due to metal-on-metal contact before oil can be pumped throughout the engine. If you are unfamiliar with 0W-30 synthetic engine oils don't think it's too light to protect because the second number (30) is what the weight will be when the engine reaches the optimum operating temperature of 100 degree C (212 degree F). And when the engine is cold (even on a 100 degree day) the oil is at it's thickest even though the first number is 0W.
Anyway, after running the new oil you now have in the engine for a couple of weeks and then changing it again for synthetic engine oil you will then be able to determine if you will need the seals replaced if it still smokes at start-up.
^ not saying you are wrong! your not.
you do need to get it rebuilt asap but if you cant do it now try the other ways,and change you oil every 1000 mils or more.for atleast 4000.
i was servicing my car at the dealer a few days ago and they told me something about a hot oil flush? (forgot what it was called). they recommended that i do this every 2nd oil change. they basically flush out the old oil that built up inside. maybe u should give that a try, they charge $60CAD.
Are you people not listening to me. Obviously it isn't the guys Valve Seals. He knows it is a sludge motor his mechanic took the valve cover off and said it was covered with sludge. So like I said and you people need to read it this time. He needs to rebuid the engine as soon as possible before he starts to burn up his crank or rods or something inside. Changing oil and then putting in synthectic is just going to waste him more money because we already know he has to rebuild the engine. So quit telling him things he can try because there is nothing he can try except rebuild his motor. Like I have said twice now it is the only way you can fix the problem.
He may indeed have a degree of sludge built up in certain areas of his engine like the valve cover but it's highly doubtful that the engine needs to be rebuilt unless it was operated without ample oil or overheated. Some of the new synthetic oils like Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 can be used, with oil filter changes, in excess of 30,000 miles and retain all the necessary properties to still pass the SG rating. Therefore just because this engine has been used for close to 30,000 miles with the same engine oil in no way means it is damaged to the degree it needs to be rebuilt.
Kooter
Quote:
Originally posted by Hotwheelharmer Are you people not listening to me. Obviously it isn't the guys Valve Seals. He knows it is a sludge motor his mechanic took the valve cover off and said it was covered with sludge. So like I said and you people need to read it this time. He needs to rebuid the engine as soon as possible before he starts to burn up his crank or rods or something inside. Changing oil and then putting in synthectic is just going to waste him more money because we already know he has to rebuild the engine. So quit telling him things he can try because there is nothing he can try except rebuild his motor. Like I have said twice now it is the only way you can fix the problem.
Hey have you ever seen a sludged up motor and what it does even if you do change the oil after that? If you saw that and had any education on engines then you would not be arguing with me that he nees to rebuild the motor. I think I would know this. I graduated from the best automotive program in teh country, I am ASE certified, I am a certified Toyota technician so I think I know what the hell I am talking about. Stop being stupid people and listen to me. He can't just flush it out and let it go. Sludge builds up in places where you can't flush it out and in turn it starts burning up things like your crank and other internals.
Yeah, I've been around for a few decades and seen a lot of engines...some gunked up, some damaged by lack of oil, some overheated, and some blown up...some with less than 100 hp and some with over a 1,000 hp...turbos, supercharges, etc., etc.
You sound so certain, without seeing the engine, that this engine is need of rebuilding. I don't see how you can make that judgment...
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30,000miles on single oil change(how to help my car?)
.i dont like "machanic in a can"but try use in engine restore it is in a silver can. it worked reel good on my 66 mustang.also try running synthetic oil that might help clean out the motor.
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