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Any suggestions on the likely source of this? When I start to brake I get a heavy shudder that I feel in the steering wheel. I checked the front wheels and the pads and rotors look good. No uneven wear or obvious rotor warpage. Could a rear drum problem cause this heavy shuddering I am feeling in the steering wheel?
I have to agree with the above posters. While it is possible to have a rear drum warp, about 99% of the time it's the front rotors that warp. They do about 80% of the stopping and therefore are subjected to the most heat. It's this heat that causes the warping. Resurface the rotors if there is enough meat (thickness) left or get new ones. Before you reinstall the pads, give the surface of the pads that contact the rotor a light sanding. This will allow them to seat better to the new rotor surface.
Rotors could be one issue. Another could be alignment and low/uneven tire pressure. I still gotta that that issue fix...pads are low, rotors are grooved, and front bushing needs replacment...
Thanks a lot everyone. I'll have them checked and post the outcome. Also, just fyi I didn't have any shudder when I pulled the emergency brake so I think that also rules out the rear drums.
"Also, just fyi I didn't have any shudder when I pulled the emergency brake so I think that also rules out the rear drums"
It certainly does. That's the way I have always tested my cars with a front disc rear drum setup. I saw a dealer do that once on my car and learned that test from that experience. Sorry I didn't think of mentioning that. I guess I'm just so used to the warpage always being in the front rotors that I forgot about it.
My brakes on my '99 Avalon (185,000 mi) have been shuddering for almost a year. They looked great, as previous owner had had them resurfaced, and they had lots of metal. A retired mechanic friend explained that front rotors have ribs that can rust out, over time. The ribs help to dissapate the heat. Over time, the ribs will rust, which will cause the inner and outer surfaces to become non-parallel/warp, they may actually give, under braking pressure. I finally replaced the rotors this past Sunday, and that totally solved my problem.
Every case of front braking shudder i've ever seen was warped rotors. (If its something else like worn front end then the shudder is intermittent.) Also like everyone is saying they can look perfect and still be warped - you need a dial indicator or something to check.
I replaced my wife's rotors on her 2001 Solara and the rotors were $21 each at Kragen. I usually dont bother with turning the old ones (and i have access to a cutting machine too, for free yet). There is just too much to go wrong - worn cutting tool on their machine- idiot operator takes off too much metal- finish comes out wrong and said idiot gives them back to you anyway ("ZZZZZZZZZ" sound when braking). Etc. I just change em.
even if the operator does a great cutting job and it is still within specs you have removed metal it needs to carry the heat away and normal wear will carry away more, then they are even more prone to warp. To me a cheap new rotor is better than an OEM Toyota turned used one.
Before you reinstall the pads, give the surface of the pads that contact the rotor a light sanding. This will allow them to seat better to the new rotor surface.
Mike
Pads contain asbestos. Dry sanding is not a good idea. If you do it, use wet sandpaper with water to trap keep asbestos fibers suspended. Do it in a bucket or something, then fill with water and flush the residue down the toilet.
Would the brake shuttering and steering wheel movement happen even when you're not braking? That happens on my car and I wondered if it could be a bad rotor/
Would the brake shuttering and steering wheel movement happen even when you're not braking? That happens on my car and I wondered if it could be a bad rotor/
That is more likely caused by an out of balance front tire, a front tire with a broken belt, a bent rim or a bent front axle. You can try putting the spare tire in place of each of the front tires and then take the car for a test ride. If the problem goes away, you have found the offending tire or wheel. Then take it to a shop for rebalancing. The shop will almost always find a rim that is bent (if that's the problem), or a tire that has a broken belt when they try to balance it. Most likely it's just tire balancing.
Thanks a lot everyone. I'll have them checked and post the outcome. Also, just fyi I didn't have any shudder when I pulled the emergency brake so I think that also rules out the rear drums.
Just a follow up: You guys were right. Changed the front rotors ($26 each @ NAPA) this weekend and the shudder is gone. Thanks again for the advice.
Also, a follow up question...I have had some problem with my wheels getting stuck to the rotors with rust. The rotors are also usually stuck with rust when I have changed them. For the wheel I ussually keep banging until it breaks free. For the rotor I use a bolt through the release holes drilled in the rotor to break it free. Would a VERY THIN (like barely visible)coating of high temp brake caliper grease be OK to put on the inside surface of the wheel that contacts the rotor and on the inside surface of the rotor where it attaches to the axle? Or, would it heat up enough to melt off onto the rotor/pads?
I do not know if it would affect anything as far as getting onto your braking surfaces, but the high-temp grease where you described is unnecessary. Now that you have broken them loose (which probably had not been done in a while) they will remove easier next time. An accumulation of brake dust from the pads being used is usually what makes the rotors hard to get off - so theoretically the grease may even worsen that accumulation of brake dust and give it something to bond with.
A trick I use is to hit the lug studs - one in a clockwise direction and another in the opposite direction, working my way around - with a rubber mallet. This has always served to get them off without much difficulty for me.
While we are on the subject of warped rotors I wanted to mention something that I have not noticed anyone else mention. You should never spray water into your wheels after having just driven and heating up the rotors. If you are going to wash your car after you have been driving, wait until the brakes have cooled or don't spray any water into the wheels.
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Cause of Brake Shudder?
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