Camry & Solara LoungeDiscussion area for every generation of Toyota's family car, the Toyota Camry. Lexus ES250/300 owners welcome! Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance and more.
I posted this on the SC3 forum but since they seem to be having technical difficulties I will post it here.
This spring as soon as I get my Tax return I am turbocharging my 90 Camry. After much consideration I have decided that modifying a 5sfe turbo kit for my 3sfe would be my best bet since the engines are so similar(exactly the same on the outside). THe manifold should bolt up no problem the only I am worrying about is differences in the engine bay setup between 2nd gen's and 3rd gens. I have never seen the inside up close of a 5sfe engine bay so I am not sure how they differ. Is there anything I should look out for? Also the kit I am going with is the turbo performance one with intercooler for about $3500. To the people who have actually seen this kit, are their any downsides to it I should be aware of. It sure seems like a better bet than the Toyomoto or BUrien one. Lastly to people who have or are building up their engines, how did you go about getting low compression forged pistons, metal head gaskets, and ARP stud bolts. Do these need to be custom ordered(I'm guessing this is the answer) for the 3sfe or are they normal stock for these companies. I am not planning on taking out the engine and building it up until next winter but I would like to know before then so I can be prepared when the time comes. Until then I will just boost at a conservative level.
Any thoughts, answers, or comments on this subject are much appreciated.
-Troy
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Talisman18 on 2002-01-25 12:05 ]</font>
Important note to add. I just got an email back from burien Toyota saying that they actually hav the kit for 2nd gen Camrys ready for order. I am thinking now if it will just be better to order that kit for 2500 and buy an intercooler and get custom piping seperately. I know intercoolers are expensive but I'm guessing it should be less to go that route than the 3,500 for everything included with the turbo performance kit right???
You would think with such few options available for this car, my decision would be much easier.
If you got the turbo kit from Burien, that's all you get. I think a good intercooler (depending on how high a boost you'd want to get upto) and any other internals that you might want to upgrade for more stability, would run you over $3500, but I am not sure since I haven't actually got any quotes on paper myself for that.
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2003 BMW 540i 6-spd
2008 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6
2005 Mazda 3 Sport GT 5-spd (just sold)
1995 Nissan Maxima SE 5-spd... Best ET: 13.8... Best trap: 99mph (Gone)
1993 Toyota Camry LE (Gone)
On 2002-01-25 11:59, Talisman18 wrote:
The manifold should bolt up no problem the only I am worrying about is differences in the engine bay setup between 2nd gen's and 3rd gens.
Yup the manifold will bolt right up. The bolt pattern (were the exhaust manifold bolts to the head) on the 3S-FE and 5S-FE are the same.
By the way the stock turbo manifold off a 3S-GTE will bolt right onto a 3S-FE and 5S-FE.
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I have never seen the inside up close of a 5sfe engine bay so I am not sure how they differ. Is there anything I should look out for?
The piping might not fit together since the kit is designed for a 5S-FE but, that can be fixed.
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Lastly to people who have or are building up their engines, how did you go about getting low compression forged pistons, metal head gaskets, and ARP stud bolts. Do these need to be custom ordered(I'm guessing this is the answer) for the 3sfe or are they normal stock for these companies.
The parts need to be custom made. Most if not all manafacuturers will custom make stuff to your specs.
On 2002-01-25 12:04, Talisman18 wrote:
I am thinking now if it will just be better to order that kit for 2500 and buy an intercooler and get custom piping seperately.
An intercooler and the piping will cost you about $1000. So your not saving any money at all by buying it seperately.
I was reading your post and I have always be interested in adding a turbo to my Camry. What would be the easiest and most effecient way of gaing a maximum amount of boost, with out jeopardizing the life of my engine?
That's a contradiction in itself. You cannot make an engine work harder and expect it to not have a shorter life. Especially a 5S-FE which wasn't designed to be pushed too hard.
The only way you could do that with your stock engine is by getting stronger internals which will run you quite a bit of money, if you count the turbo on top of that. But with the cash, yes it is possible. There is a guy on the MR2 forums who has his 5S-FE at 465HP or something to the rear wheels!!!
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On 2002-01-28 17:48, rObsolete93LE wrote:
I was reading your post and I have always be interested in adding a turbo to my Camry. What would be the easiest and most effecient way of gaing a maximum amount of boost, with out jeopardizing the life of my engine?
__________________
2003 BMW 540i 6-spd
2008 Toyota Rav4 Limited V6
2005 Mazda 3 Sport GT 5-spd (just sold)
1995 Nissan Maxima SE 5-spd... Best ET: 13.8... Best trap: 99mph (Gone)
1993 Toyota Camry LE (Gone)
On 2002-01-28 10:20, jr_certs wrote:
hey 88LE, how much do you think your little turbo project is going to cost?
About $900 or so. Thats just a rough estimate.
Turbo - About $50 from a junkyard.
3S-GTE turbo manifold - $75 from TAP Recycling.
MSD ignition - About $220 for all the parts I need.
FMU (fuel management unit) / boost dependent fpr - My buddie has one that he doesn't need so i'm getting it for free but, I have to buy a recalibration kit for it from Vortech which is about $35.
Blitz dual drive bov (ddbov) - $230.
Earl's AN fittings and stainless steel braided hoses for the oil feed and drain lines - Not sure how much this is gonna cost.
Assortment of mandrel bent pipes - About $100 - $150. I'm getting rid of everything and run 2.5" OD pipe from the turbo on back to a muffler.
Autometer boost guage - About $50 from Summit Racing.
New cap/wire set and rotor - $70 for cap/wire and $5 for the rotor.
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And are you replacing any internals?
No. I'm gonna run 5 - 7psi so replacing the internals is not necessary.
Would ten psi be to harsh on the engine, while also pushing a 75 hp shot of no2. Im trying to maintain the engine as long as possible, but I would still like to have that speed availible to me. I wont be using the nitrious as a midnight racer, more like every few months at the track.
On 2002-01-28 20:57, rObsolete93LE wrote:
Would ten psi be to harsh on the engine, while also pushing a 75 hp shot of no2. Im trying to maintain the engine as long as possible, but I would still like to have that speed availible to me. I wont be using the nitrious as a midnight racer, more like every few months at the track.
plan on blowing pieces of your engine through your hood, thats way too much for a daily driven non built motor. its a camry not a supra bro, u have to build it up to put that much pressure in the cylinder otherwise ur gonna have a piston in your lap and a rod up your a$$ hehehe sorry for the graphic but u get the point;p stick below 7 psi and avoid Nitrous "NOS" like its the plague until u have a motor that can handle it.
Nos is not as bad as everyone makes it seem. used proporly, it isnt bad. But with everything, to much is bad. talk to some speed shops, see what they have said. most racers i have talked to says stay around 50 shot on a no built motor. talk to nos about it, their very helpful.
i never said nitrous was bad, and yes used incorrectly it will blow up even the most built motors, what i said is runnin it at 75 shot with 10 lbs of boost from a restrictive turbo on a stock engine is not good, i personally wouldn't put nitrous in my car until i was absolutely done with everything else, i consider it a cheater bolt on and i'm going for a fully tuned daily driver where the power is there no matter if i have a nob twisted or not, and i personally wouldn't use nitrous unless i was absolutely certain the person next to me was going to win or was using it too. but like i said 10lbs of boost + 75 shot"NOS" (on a stock engine)= BOOOOM
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: karma on 2002-01-28 23:18 ]</font>
On 2002-01-28 20:57, rObsolete93LE wrote:
Would ten psi be to harsh on the engine, while also pushing a 75 hp shot of no2.
Yes. The only way your engine will take 10psi boost and a 75 shot of nitrous is if you build the motor. Otherwise your gonna end up with a piston up your a**, rod in your mouth, and a valve in each of your nostrils when your engine blows up.
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Im trying to maintain the engine as long as possible, but I would still like to have that speed availible to me.
If you want your engine to live as long as possible don't mess with it. Whenever you run any kid of forced induction your putting more stress on the motor. That means that your motor won't live as long.
If you must run forced induction and still want the engine to be reliable run nomore then 7 - 8psi of boost. Anymore then that your asking for trouble and a blown motor.
You could ignore everything I just said and buy a bike. Now thats fast and reliable. :grin:
If and when I decide to go with the boost, what should I look for as far as building my engine up. Im mechanically retarded and trying to learn. I dont need a mechanic raping my wallet.
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