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Old 09-12-2007, 07:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen 3 Clutch

Hi Guys.

My old girls clutch is starting to wear out, and I'm thinking of replacing it myself. Do any of you have any tips and tricks to do it or any sort of how to? I just don't trust taking it to anybody, as nobody ever does as decent a job as what I would want.

My car is a 1997 220SEI Camry, with the 5sfe motor. Looks like this...

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Old 09-12-2007, 11:06 AM   #2 (permalink)
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unless you have a lift to put the car up on, it's easier to just pull the engine and tranny together through the top otherwise, nothing special

I haven't done the 4banger, I couldn't see it being any harder than doing the v6
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Old 09-13-2007, 01:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply. I don't have a car lift, so I was just going to jack the front of the car up and get in from underneath. Is this a bad idea?
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Old 09-14-2007, 12:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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well, it's been done....but I would never do it myself....to drop the tranny you probably need to raise the car up a good 3 feet...and that's just not safe without a lift


if you don't have access to an engine hoist, what you can also do is find a garage with a high support beam, throw a rope over the beam and hoist up the engine that way
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Old 09-18-2007, 06:12 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Eye8 pussy is right in that it is much easier to do if you have a lift...i have several done clutches on trucks and cars, front and rear wheel drive, and i have always done it the hard way though, by jacking it up and supporting it good and crawling on the ground.

Its better if you have 2 hydraulic jacks (not the bottle kind either). You will need some pieces of wood, maybe 1 or 2 cm thick and about 60 cm long by 20 cm wide, to place between the jack and the trans when you go to pull it out.

You can wrestle the trans out by yourself if you have to, i have done it, but its easier and safer if you have one helper. The transmission is not too heavy for a male of average strength, especially since you are just dropping it onto your jack (by the way the jack better have wheels on it!), and pulling it out. but remember it weighs maybe 40 to 45 kg (80 to 100 lbs) so support it on the jack before you remove all the bolts.

If you didnt wait til your clutch disc was down to the rivets, your flywheel is probably still good. You will know once you pull the trans and can see the flywheel - it ought to look like new, no gouges, scratches, heat marks, cracks, grooves. If so, you can just sand your flywheel with fine emery cloth - go across the surface not round and round. Sand it for a few minutes to remove the "glaze" from the old clutch disk, clean it with brake cleaner until a white towel stays white and you are done with it.


Clutch parts and tool, Clockwise from top left: clutch Disc; pressure plate; throwout bearing (often called release bearing); clutch disc alignment tool


If the flywheel looks anything less than perfect, you are going to have to remove it and take it somewhere to have it resurfaced, or replace it if it is in bad shape. The flywheel bolts are torqued on there with maybe 50 to 80 kg of force (100 or 200 ft lb) so you'd want to have an air ratchet for this - you can get them off by hand with a long breaker bar but it would not be easy.

Don't forget your pilot bearing, if this car is making trans noise you'd want to change it. (The pilot bearing is a little round bronze thing inside the center hole of the flywheel.) You need a puller to remove it, or you can stuff grease in the hole behind it and get a piece of metal that just fits in the hole and bang on it. The pressure thus created is supposed to pop out the pilot bearing. I've never tried this but its said to work if you dont have a slide puller.

By all means do change your throwout bearing now too, its a mistake not to - examine how your old one goes on there (the main shaft of the tranny). Its probably held on by a couple clips or something. Clean the shaft really well, lightly grease the shaft and the splines that go into the flywheel, and then put your new throwout bearing on there.

When you bolt your new disc and pressure plate on the flywheel, you will need to stick something through the hole to line up the clutch disc perfectly so the transmission spline goes smoothly through it and into the flywheel. In other words, before you tighten the pressure plate (the disc is of course sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel) you need a wooden dowel, a socket extension, or better yet the special tool made for this purpose it is shown in the image, the piece on the lower left corner is the clutch alignment tool), to line up the clutch disc perfectly with the hole in the flywheel. (You can see that it is no good just slapping the disc in there and bolting on the pressure plate... because the transmission spline wont fit through the holes and you will just have to unbolt and rebolt the pressure plate and align the clutch disc again til the holes are lined up.)

Once you have done this, then tighten the pressure plate bolts in increments, using a pattern, just like tightening lug nuts - dont tighten one after another all the way around, skip back and forth so's you dont warp your new pressure plate.

By the way, be sure to use loctite blue on the pressure plate bolts if you can get it! I pulled my trans once on my old 1971 Chevy Vega - a few thousand miles after i had made the mistake of letting some dummies change my clutch. And the pressure plate bolts were loose. (You definitely dont want this happening to you because these bolts are so hard to get to - so use the loctite and tighten em good. )

One last suggestion, you know that you have to yank the CV driveaxles out at least the drivers side, so why not change them too if they're close to being due.

Last edited by marc780; 10-18-2007 at 04:28 PM.
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