Camry & Solara LoungeDiscussion area for every generation of Toyota's family car, the Toyota Camry. Lexus ES250/300 owners welcome! Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance and more.
As I was preparing to change the oil in my '98 Camry V6, I decided to see what people on the net had to say about the standard Toyota oil filter for the 1MZ-FE. The standard filter part number is: 08922-02011. A quick search turned up the following interesting links:
So it looks like the 08922-02011 filter is a USA-made "cheap" design, whereas there is a part number 90915-20004 corresponding to a significantly more sophisticated and higher-quality filter, made by Denso in Japan. This 90915-20004 filter is used on Lexus cars, and the various websites make it clear that it is far superior to the 08922-02011 and strongly recommends it. These sites have also pointed out that the screw size, pitch and thread type are fully compatible between the two.
So, I'm definitely interested in using this 90915-20004 filter on my 1MZ-FE Camry, but I haven't been able to turn up any hits on Camry owners talking about it. This leads me to the following questions for you guys:
1. Are any 1MZ-FE Camry/Solara owners here using this filter? If so, what do you have to say about it? Any downsides/negatives?
2. The bypass valve on the 90915-20004 looks like it should and does have a different pressure vs. opening curve than the 08922-02011. However, given that this filter is sized for a Lexus V8, will the difference in the bypass valve operation be a cause for concern with the 1MZ-FE? My thinking is that the answer should be "no, it's not cause for concern" because the oil flow rate demands for the V8 are going to be higher than the V6, so if anything, the bypass should be more likely to open (the safer of the two options). Then again, maybe with the V8, the oil "vacuum" is higher when its starved, so pehaps the bypass valve opens later than it would for an oil-starved 1MZ-FE. Ultimately, it's a question of total oil flow over all operating conditions, and I don't have enough info to be certain if the 90915-20004 will always flow as much as or more than the 08922-02011.
Since I (and I'm sure many of you guys) use full synthetics, it seems that if the answer to #2 is a positive one, the 90915-20004 is the way to go given synthetics' extended drain intervals.
I just use the filter of the place where I take it. It's not gonna hurt my car and I figure why waste my money on a "Lexus" oil filter when I have been using generic filters for 64,000 miles with no problems.
I do use Mobil 1 oil though, and I can tell a difference between that and dino oil.
Originally posted by wontonjohnny just use factory filters, most aftermarket ones are crap, especially fram
These are both "factory" filters, i.e. sold by Toyota as "Toyota Genuine Parts" though made by two different suppliers.
Quote:
Originally posted by Tex97 I just use the filter of the place where I take it. It's not gonna hurt my car and I figure why waste my money on a "Lexus" oil filter when I have been using generic filters for 64,000 miles with no problems.
I do use Mobil 1 oil though, and I can tell a difference between that and dino oil.
The point behind using a better filter is no different than the point behind using synthetics as opposed to "dino" oil. People have put hundreds of thousands of miles on cars with the conventional stuff, so why pay more for the synthetics? You do it because it's scientifically proven to be superior in terms of all the relevant properties and even if conventional oil is "good enough", the synthetic is better. If you want tangible proof of the benefits, it shows up in the small details like reduced oil consumption, lack of sludging, higher fuel economy, etc. In the same way, if there's a relatively easy way for me to run the engine lubed with cleaner oil thanks to a better filter, I will because it's better for the engine. Will it make a real difference? I don't know, but that's the kind of question that's not easily answered because any problems that "dirtier" oil caused are not going to jump out as due to that reason. If there are benefits due to a better filter, they too will show up in the small details over the long run. I'd rather just do this bit of research, make the right decision and have peace of mind. Since I do my own oil changes, I have the flexibility to do it exactly the way I want.
Hopefully no one takes this as flaming, I'm just trying to find out if anyone here has experience with these filters. Most, if not everyone, cares about their cars otherwise they wouldn't be here. Thus I figure I can't be the only one here that's run across this info.
These are both "factory" filters, i.e. sold by Toyota as "Toyota Genuine Parts" though made by two different suppliers.
The point behind using a better filter is no different than the point behind using synthetics as opposed to "dino" oil. People have put hundreds of thousands of miles on cars with the conventional stuff, so why pay more for the synthetics? You do it because it's scientifically proven to be superior in terms of all the relevant properties and even if conventional oil is "good enough", the synthetic is better. If you want tangible proof of the benefits, it shows up in the small details like reduced oil consumption, lack of sludging, higher fuel economy, etc. In the same way, if there's a relatively easy way for me to run the engine lubed with cleaner oil thanks to a better filter, I will because it's better for the engine. Will it make a real difference? I don't know, but that's the kind of question that's not easily answered because any problems that "dirtier" oil caused are not going to jump out as due to that reason. If there are benefits due to a better filter, they too will show up in the small details over the long run. I'd rather just do this bit of research, make the right decision and have peace of mind. Since I do my own oil changes, I have the flexibility to do it exactly the way I want.
Hopefully no one takes this as flaming, I'm just trying to find out if anyone here has experience with these filters. Most, if not everyone, cares about their cars otherwise they wouldn't be here. Thus I figure I can't be the only one here that's run across this info.
Well I do see your point. I would like to do my own changes but I park in a parking garage and have no where to do it unless I go home, which isn't always possible. On the other hand the prices at the dealer for an oil change have gone down, I may have to take it there and have it changed from now on.
Originally posted by wontonjohnny just use factory filters, most aftermarket ones are crap, especially fram
You're right about Fram, but I encourage you to dig a bit deeper. You'll find that there is a wide range of filtration quality between products, with respect to particle filtration. Run of the mill paper filters only filter down to about 40 microns. Mobil-1, Amsoil, and Purolator all filter down to about 10 microns. Particles as small as 3-5 microns can cause damage in tight areas of the engine. Thus, one of the primary reasons (other than oxidation) for changing oil and filter every so often. Also, if you're a real clean oil zealot, you can install an extra "bypass" filter to get the really small stuff. I use the Mobil-1 to get the maximum practical filtration without going to extremes.
i use the toyota filter ... made in japan by denso i believe...
also a trick my buddy showed me is to take a high strength magnet and attach it to the top of you oil filter, the best are those rare earth magnets, i use the ones found in computer hard drives.
Originally posted by SKYravefever I'd stick to the OEM ones (Toyota, not Lexus). It's almost analogous to putting premium in your car if it doesn't call for it.
I would probably use the OEM filter, but for some mysterious reason, Toyota refuses to reveal its filter performance data. I want to know its micron rating and efficiency, but they won't tell us. Since 10 micron is about as good as you can get without going to a bypass system, it stands to reason that the Toyota filter can do only as well as Mobil-1, and not significantly better.
As to filter construction, break out a Mobil-1, a Toyota, and a Fram. The Mobil-1 and Toyota appear to be of top quality construction. The bottom plate of the Fram is thinner, and I've seen some bad info about its internals on the net (use of cardboard internal caps, etc.).
Magnets are a good idea too. Online, the run from $5-25. How much would it cost me (and how hard) to recover one of those hard drive magnets?
not so sure there are any in the oil pan, i thought they only had them in transmission cases....
a magnet in oil pan would mean that particals would remain in the oil pan, possibly recontaminating the fresh oil...
a magnet on the top of the filter would remove the particals.
not hard to get one of these magnets, if you have a old comp jsut pull it from the HD.
if not, ask around alot of ppl have old computer parts lying around.
Inquisitor, this experiment has been around for some time now. I haven't heard any feedback from any Camry owners that switched.
The links you provided brought up the issue of bypass pressure. I never considered that. I was gonna switch myself, but now I'm hesitant. The argument that the oil requirements of the V8 are probably higher than that of a V6 and so the filter should provide adequate flow makes sense.
hmm...I wonder what oil filter is used on ES300s and if the guts of that filter are any different?
I have a system 1 reusable race filter and love it. People were talking about spending 20 bucks on a TRD filter every 3000 miles. The System 1 takes more out too.
Originally posted by wontonjohnny also a trick my buddy showed me is to take a high strength magnet and attach it to the top of you oil filter, the best are those rare earth magnets, i use the ones found in computer hard drives.
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1MZ-FE (V6) Oil Filters
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