Changing out coil 3sfe?

[chubcobear]

Is it absolutely necessary to pull the distributer when changing the coil on a 1990 3SFE? I am pretty sure my "stalling out when wet outside" problem is related to the coil, perhaps a small crack. I really don't want to pull the distributer if I do not have to....any thots? Thanks, Frank.

[toyomoho]

The coil removes from the side of the distributor. You will need to remove the cap/wires, rotor, gasket dust cover, screws that hold the coil on and a wire terminal nut. If there is no room to work with the distributor in, removing and replacing it is not that hard.

Set crank at 0 deg with No 1 cylinder at TDC. Carefully mark the location of the distributor housing to allow you reinstall it in the same location. If you do it this way timing will be within a couple of degrees of specified. Might also change out the o-ring on the distributor housing that slides into the engine if you go this route.

And test the coil. Primary resistance cold is 0.41-0.50 ohm cold. Secondary is 10.2-13.8 ohms cold. Inspect for cracks.

Could also be ignition wires. Do this by looking at them with engine on in the dark. Check for signs of leaking (sparks).

[Mike Gerber]

You don't have to remove it, but you have to work very, very, very carefully if you are not going to remove it. Chances are you will drop one of the small screws, since the distributor is in a horizontal position. Then you will utter a few choice words and wonder why you didn't just remove the distributor in the first place. I would just remove it. It really isn't that hard if you mark both the position of the distributor housing against the engine and the position of the rotor is pointing with a sharpie. The distributor will have a kind of up-side-down wing nut thumb portion at the bottom. It will only go back in one way. Put it back in and align everything with your marks and the timing should be right where it was.

Mike

[chubcobear]

Thanks for the advice, gents. I'll remove it first. Later, Frank