Camry Cutting off

[Douglas milby]

Currently My Toyota Camry keep cutting of after the high Idle cuts off and I come to a stop. Or if I start it after the engine has warmed up a little. But when I have driving for more than 10-15 min. it runs find when I come to a stop.
This started with it warming up a little 5 min. I’d stop at the corner store and when I restart it up it would cut off. I’d pump the gas peddle and start again and no problem for the rest of the day. But it has gotten worse. No check engine light yet.

I had similar problem about 5 months ago but after it started doing it a lot the check engine light came on and the dealer charged me $85.00 to tell me it was the O2 sensor. So I went to Advance Auto this time and the diagnostic Computer only found a P1705 Manufacture transmission control error which on a web sight I found to mean "Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault". I don’t se the relation. I hat to change the O2 sensor or the other side of the engine if it’s not bad about $100. Any insight?

[Mike Gerber]

First, when asking for help it is best to give the year of the car, which engine (I4 or V6) and the current mileage. Also, any recent things done to the car.

That said, I would start by cleaning the throttle body, paying particular attention to spraying the throttle body cleaner down the square or diamond shaped port at the base of the throttle body. That is the port that leads to your idle air control valve. The idle air control valve may be dirty. A dirty idle air control valve is the most common item that causes this problem. Do a search on this forum for "throttle body cleaning". It has been covered numerous times.

Mike

[Douglas milby]

Sorry about the lack of info.
It's a 1998 Camry SLE 3.0 V6 with 135,000 miles.
Nothing has been done since I replaced the O2 sensor on the rear exhaust manifold about 6 months ago.

Since I replaced the O2 sensor on the rear manifold went bad and acted similar, It couldn't hurt anything, other than my wallet, to replace the one on the front manifold.

I going to go a head and clean the throttle body this evening like you suggested.

Any other suggestions I should look at this weekend while I working on it

[Mike Gerber]

I would definitely do the throttle body cleaning first. Then I would look around for vacuum leaks. These are cheap and easy things that just about anyone can do themselves. Here's a link to cleaning the throttle body. In one of the pictures you will notice the port leading to the idle air control valve.

How to: Cleaning Throttle Body, Pictorial

I would next check the engine coolant temperature sensor and then the ignition coil. You will need a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual for these tests.

Mike

[csaxon]

"the diagnostic Computer only found a P1705 Manufacture transmission control error which on a web sight I found to mean "Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault". I don’t se the relation."

The "relationship" is that if the torque converter clutch speed circuit and the vehicle speed circuits don't match the shifting points, then the ecm may leave the torque converter locked up and the car will stall.

[Mike Gerber]

Originally Posted by csaxon

"the diagnostic Computer only found a P1705 Manufacture transmission control error which on a web sight I found to mean "Direct Clutch Speed Circuit Fault". I don’t se the relation."

The "relationship" is that if the torque converter clutch speed circuit and the vehicle speed circuits don't match the shifting points, then the ecm may leave the torque converter locked up and the car will stall.

Csaxon makes a good point. I missed this from your original post.

Mike