1994 Camry V6 brake line fitting NEW QUESTION(S)!
I have a beautiful 1994 Camry LE with 50,000 miles and I have a torn brake line that I must replace and have purchased the new line.
Unfortunately I didn't have (nor use) a flare-nut wrench to loosen the fitting (between where the metal brake line ends and the rubber line begins) and stripped it. Despite calling Toyota dealers in different departments and searching everywhere online I can't get a straight answer. Nobody knows! I've been told I need an 8,9,10, and 14 mm and none of those sound correct. I believe I need a 11 mm (part of the reason I'm not sure is because I used a borrowed wrench that worked for both metric and SAE).
Also are the brakes on this car really dual-circuit regarding the hydraulics? I just replaced the rear brake pads (rotors and all parts very clean and pristine besides the worn pads) and would like to know if I can drive on rear brakes alone and therefore have at least a degree of reliable stopping ability on the roadway. I'm not asking if it's safe to continue driving like that. I'm just wondering if the brake system is such that when there's a leak in one corner letting air into the lines, the whole system fails.
Also I was curious, isn't it exceedingly rare that these lines get ripped? The other three on my car are very pristine despite their age, the Toyota dealers say that it's very rare they ever need replacing. I suspect foul play. I won't know more about this till I get the hose off and be able to examine it visually up close. The line that's damaged is in the left front. I was thinking that because this line is the closest to the master cylinder it might be exposed to slightly higher pressures than the other three wheels and therefore the most likely one to rip?
EDIT: Well now that I got the old hose off, I got the new hose almost all the way back on, but I'm having a problem at the 10mm fitting once again. I HATE THIS FITTING (is it possible to hate a fitting? I think so!)
The old fitting will not take down into the threads of the new hose. I tried about three times and I kept feeling the threads "slip" and they won't catch into the female end. On closer inspection, I see a reddish colored substance that has grown into the grooves of the threading on the bolt. So maybe what made the fitting so outrageously difficult to get off, is what's making it even more difficult to get back on.
Oh I rounded the fitting, even with the 10mm flare nut wrench! Ultimately I had to use an adjustable to loosen that 10mm piece of bleep. Although toyomoho's advice was invaluable to get the thing loose. I would have never succeeded without applying some countertorque to the hose-side fitting underneath the bracket.
So if push comes to shove, how hard is it to replace the metal line, does it come bent in the crazy shape I need, or is it no big deal to bend it myself and save $$? The metal line goes through the fender well and there is some undercoating there or whatever, and it looks like it's going to be a major pain in the butt to replace. How hard is it to put a brake line through that hole? What do I need to get the job done? The HAYNES manual doesn't say anything about this job other than a few minor tips.
So I don't want to have to replace the whole metal brake line, which is in perfect condition except for this rusted rounded maddening 10mm fitting that has now driven me half way insane! I just want to get this fitting put back together so I can bleed my brakes and drive my car!!!!!
I'm going to have to spray and scrub the threads on this fitting till the cows come home (or till I'm high on fumes) or else someone please be kind and tell me how to replace the metal brake line in plain english. I can follow it to the master cylinder. It's just a line with two 10mm fittings on both ends. Not rocket science but since I've never "done" it before, I need an advisor to give me the 101 on what is involved in getting an old metal line out and putting a new one in. Especially through that disconcerting hole in the wheelwell.
Please don't tell me I need to splice the line. I'd like to avoid that if possible, even if it means getting a new metal line put in. A brand new fitting will come with the metal line I suppose. Any ballpark estimates on what these different options will cost? I'd like to avoid having to tow or drive the car to have someone else do it. I'm no pro mechanic but I do have an engineering background and some minimal garage experience. Not afraid to get my hands dirty at all. I've done a lot of work on a number of my own vehicles to good effect.
Last edited by toyotarocksman; 07-30-2008 at 09:46 AM.
Reason: Update with progressive information
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My first question is answered!
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