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My 5sfe engine on my 1992 Camry has been rebuilt and I have had huge problems to have it run correctly.
At present we are having a new problem and I was wondering if you would have any idea (another tricky problem...):
The car went on running well for some time but after a day or two as soon as the engine went up to 2000 tr/min, idle would stay at that level, engine light would appear and also a terrible lack of power (unable to go over 20 mph in hills. Now we are at the stage where idle is always at 2000 tr/min as soon as I start the engine, still this problem of power also, and engine light.
Is there only one ? Problem is I have the impression there isn't anyone at that place, I have been looking with a friend and he showed me a place where there "could " be one.
Thank you for your help
I just had the same freaking problem fixed on my 94 5sfe camry. Its the coolant temperature sensor! At first my car started staying at 2,000 rpm everytime I turned it on, and sometimes it would shut off on me as well as feel clogged and weak. I went to toyota to get it checked, and they said it was the ISC (Idle speed control) valve. But it wasn't that, it was coolant temperature sensor that was bad and causing the car to be clogged up with the oil. Get that check out, I'm pretty sure its the sensor.
Thank you Calvin, your help is very appreciated. In fact the 2 temperature sensors have just been changed so I don't really know, I guess then perhaps it's not well engaged. I'll check that anyway.
coolant temperature sensor that was bad and causing the car to be clogged up with the oil.
could you explain this? I dont quite get it.
Nico,
just guessing but I think the ksensor is bet. cylinder 2 & 3 threaded on the block under the intake manifold. a faulty ksensor wont affect your idle rpm at all. but whatevers causing your high idle rpm(maybe a vac. leak), can cause events that may trip a ksensor code. such as high combustion temps.(maybe a vac. leak or overly advanced ignition timing). severe high temps are ingredients for pre-ignition or detonation. if knock frequency is severe enough, it will blow the sensor and you'll get a code and be in limp mode.
Thank you to all of you for your help !In fact it appeared to be the knock sensor that I forgot to place after the engine swap... My mistake. Now there is no timing problem anymore, not any poor performance problem and the engine light is off BUT idle is still too high... so it seems these were two separate problems. Any other ideas ? (apart from vacuum pipes which all seem fine)
By the way I have the impression to have another problem which was not easy too detect at first but it seems that when I start the engine when warm, it does a strange bad noise for a few seconds (like raglada...) and then goes on fine. A friend of mine said it might be the crankshaft that would be bad balanced. So perhaps these two problems might be linked somehow ?
Any ideas welcome !
Again my fault ! at least for a big part of the problem, I forgot to place the egr valve gasket which lead to air leaks, now idle is at about 1300 which is already much better. I am thinking of putting new gaskets instead (throttle body and egr valve). I hope it will help.
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