1997 Camry ABS light (4 cyl)

[erikj17]

I have an ABS light that comes on, but I've narrowed it down to exactly when and how it comes on.

Starting the car and leaving it in park results in no light.

Taking the car in reverse around the block results in no light.

Shifting from park to drive (with my foot on the brake) results in no light.

When, in drive, I release the brake completely and I roll forward 10 feet or so, the light comes on, and stays on, until the car is shut off.

I'm guessing it's a wheel sensor, but I do not know how to verify this.

I took the car to the local dealership and told them these same issues. Their response: "Buy a new ABS controller because we can't read the codes." That's a $1400 fix that I'm not convinced is my issue. I couldn't get any insight as to whether or not the light was on when they checked the code - as I've read on other posts, the car must be shut off, then on - which does not activate the light. You must go through the procedure I listed above.

Can anyone help me out here?

Thanks.

-Erik

[JerryR]

Eric.
If the dealer told you that they "cannot read the codes" from tha ABS system they were at best *lazy* or at worse *dishonest*.
The 97 Camry shop manual has a procedure listed to do just that.
I'll give you the short of it.
To pull the codes: In the engine compartment locate the diagnostic connector and open the cover, IIRC there is a diagram inside the cover showing the pin locations.
1. Ignition OFF
2. Remove the shorting plug-(according to the picture, it is at the lower right corner of the diagnostic connector)
3. Short with a piece of wire terminals E1 and TC
4. Turn the ignition on and read the codes as represented by the flashing ABS light.
(Example: continuouse blinking= no codes. One blink, pause, two blinks,Pause =code 12)
5. Turn ignition off
6. Remove the short from E1-TC and restore the shorting plug.
If I were you, following the above, I would clear the codes( even if none came up) following the same procedure as above, Short E1-TC and remove the shorting plug, ignition on and immediately pump the brake pedal at least 8 times in 5 seconds.(yes you got to be VERY VERY QUICK).
Drive the car and see if the problem returns, Post the codes, I'll try and help you.
HTH
JerryR

[erikj17]

Jerry -

Awesome. Thank you.

Based on what you told me, my code is 23. I reset the code, but it reappeared after I moved about 10 feet.

I've found this to be "Open or Short in RR ABS Solenoid."

Are there specific relays for each wheel that I could check? Any other ideas for what to look for?

I appreciate your help.

-Erik

[JerryR]

Erik.
The shop manual shows that this car could have either a Nipondenso type ABS or a Bosch ABS, they don't say how to identify them. (maybe a nameplate on the unit?).
Code 23 description that you found is for the nipondenso unit.
Code 23 for the bosch unit is: Right Rear solenoid Valve faulty.(the 2 descriptions may mean the same thing?).
If you send me a private(don't post it here) EMail address(see my address in my signature),
I'll try and scan the pertinent troubleshooting pages into my reply.
I tried to do it in this reply to the newsgroup, but don't know how.
Being that the code points posiblly to the ABS acuator solenoid(I think this is the device mounted in the engine compartment, IIRC passenger side in back of the headlight) with a bunch of brake lines attached to it) if you see any electrical connectors attached to it, unplug them and inspect for corrosion, exersise them(unplug-replug) a few times, clear the code and test drive again.
HTH
JerryR

[JerryR]

Erik.
Did you get my Email with the attached ABS info?
JerryR

[erikj17]

Jerry -

Yes, thank you very much.

I currently don't have the car - I've loaned it to dad while he waits for his new Prius to be delivered...

Do you know if I can tell which ABS system is in the car without having it here right now?

Based on your diagnosis pages, worst case scenario appears to be that I would need a new ECU.

Can I grab one from a scrap yard? Can I somehow rebuild the ECU in the car?
Any experience with this sort of issue?

Thanks for your continued help.

-Erik

[JerryR]

Erik

From what I can tell looking at the manual, the easiest(?) way to tell which system you got is to see how many electrical connectors go the ABS actuator.
The Nippondenso system shows 2 connectors coming from the back. It will also have a relay box somewhere around the the radiator upper right bracket.
The Bosch system will have only 1 connector in front.
Obviously you can not use the above info if you do not have access to the car.
I don't have any experiece working on this system, so all I can offer you is just what I can find in the manual.
One suggestion I have, If you can, inspect the connectors(male and female) for evidence of corrosion. If you find some try using contact cleaner(radioshack used to have it-don't know if they still do. Auto parts store may have it.)
Excersise the connectors on the unit a few times, cross your fingers and hope it's just a case of a bad connection.
If you eventually determine that a part really went bad(ECU, ABS Actuator/solenoid) you could posiblly get it from a salvage yard, but make sure it's EXCACTLY matches what you have(model, year, equip, US/Japan built etc.).
HTH
JerryR