Power window

[silvervette96]

Hello everyone. I just registered and have a power window question

I have a 2000 Camry XLE. the right rear window will not go up or down. I removed the door panel and did the following:
1. Removed the wire leading to the motor and checked the voltage going to motor. with the switch in the "up" position i get 12.1 volts. with the switch in the "down" position i get 0.5 volts. I removed the window switch from the opposite door to check the switch and got the same voltage readings with a different switch.
2. Then i checked the voltage using the driver's door main control switch. i get "zero" voltage either way on the right rear door. i removed the entire left rear panel and checked the voltage from the main door switch. i get 12v up and 12v down.
3. why is the right rear door window not getting the correct voltage?

Thanks.

mel

[somick]

Download your FSM from www.camrystuff.com

I am pretty sure they have electrical diagram and troubleshooting there.

Good luck,

Sam

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by silvervette96

Hello everyone. I just registered and have a power window question

I have a 2000 Camry XLE. the right rear window will not go up or down. I removed the door panel and did the following:
1. Removed the wire leading to the motor and checked the voltage going to motor. with the switch in the "up" position i get 12.1 volts. with the switch in the "down" position i get 0.5 volts. I removed the window switch from the opposite door to check the switch and got the same voltage readings with a different switch.
2. Then i checked the voltage using the driver's door main control switch. i get "zero" voltage either way on the right rear door. i removed the entire left rear panel and checked the voltage from the main door switch. i get 12v up and 12v down.
3. why is the right rear door window not getting the correct voltage?

Thanks.

mel

Hi Mel.
My advice is based on the wiring diagram of the 97 LE( I don't think toyota changed it much since)
1. How are you measuring those voltages?
Your meter should be *across* the up/dn terminals(not to gnd) in which case your meter should read +12v or -12v depending on the switch up/dn direction.
2. With all switches at rest, you should be reading close to 0 ohm across the RR door terminals that feed the motor(motor disconnected) and 0 ohms from both terminal to ground, if you don't, you have either a problem in the driver door master switch (Bad wiring or a bad switch) or broken/bad (oxidised)connections between the driver door and the RR door.
Is it possible to move the wiring harness from the LR driver door switch to the RR driver door switch, or swap those 2 switches? If you can do that it will point to either a bad switch or bad interconnect harness.
HTH
JerryR

[silvervette96]

Jerry R,
I did remove the switch from the good door(driver's side rear) and placed on RR door. Got the same volt reading. I then put the switch from the RR door on the LR door and it worked fine.
The LR door switch gets 12v, up and down. RR door gets 12v up, little to none down.
I then tested the LR door from the Driver's main switch. Same readings as above. however, the RR door shows little or no voltage even after the door switch itself shows 12 v up and little down. i'm now thinking of replacing the driver's door master switch.

Thanks.

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by silvervette96

Jerry R,
I did remove the switch from the good door(driver's side rear) and placed on RR door. Got the same volt reading. I then put the switch from the RR door on the LR door and it worked fine.
The LR door switch gets 12v, up and down. RR door gets 12v up, little to none down.
I then tested the LR door from the Driver's main switch. Same readings as above. however, the RR door shows little or no voltage even after the door switch itself shows 12 v up and little down. i'm now thinking of replacing the driver's door master switch.

Thanks.

Are the window switches on the master switch available individually or do you have to get the entire assy.?
JerryR

[silvervette96]

Jerry,
the driver's side master switch is all one unit. i can get a master switch from 1 A Auto for $153 which is about $230 cheaper than the dealer. i'm now at a point where i think that is where the problem lies.

Thanks.

Mel

[JerryR]

Originally Posted by silvervette96

Jerry,
the driver's side master switch is all one unit. i can get a master switch from 1 A Auto for $153 which is about $230 cheaper than the dealer. i'm now at a point where i think that is where the problem lies.

Thanks.

Mel

Hi Mel.
I agree with you that getting a new switch might be the expedient thing to do, but before you spend $153(+ tax/shipping?) 2 options come to mind
1. Check the wiring at the master switch, and between the master switch and the door switch.
I don't think it's that uncommon for a wire to break between the driver door and
where it enters the body( lots of flexing there)
2. Get a switch from a junkyard(might be cheaper ? ).
HTH
JerryR

[silvervette96]

Jerry R,
I'm sorry I have not gotten back to you, but have not had the time to just work on the car, and I lost track of time. i just wanted to "Thank You" for your help with my power window issue. I had some time over the weekend and cut the wire harness between the driver's door and the frame, only to fine the Green/Black wire was broken.

I removed the driver's door panel and spliced a new wire from about 10 inches from the switch through the door to the circuit panel inside the frame. it took all of 30 minutes.

Thanks again!!!

Mel