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The following is for a 1997 Toyota Camry 4 Cylinder 114,000 miles:
Recently I have noticed a slight stuttering when cruising or accelerating. You can watch the RPM's jump around +/- couple hundred and then it would go away. I frequently get error code 1133 and that also goes away, but I have not noticed a correlation between the two.
Tonight the car began severely stuttering and jerking and at times there was no response out of the accelerator. I could barely reach 40 mph. When at a stand still the car would almost stall. Check Engine light came on as well. I slowly made it home, then I checked the engine codes and got 1133 and 0171. Eventually they reset and the light went off. I drove the car around and now everything seems fine again??
I checked the engine oil and it wasn't even on the dip stick. I also noticed a bit of gunk on the end of it... I consistently change the oil every 3,000 to 3,500 miles and right now I am just approaching 3,500 and have never had an oil burning problem before (note there are no visible leaks).
I found that the car was about two quarts low on oil according to the dip stick. I filled oil until it was indicated at the mid fill level on the dip stick.
I haven't checked for sludge yet, but I would think if there was some type of internal engine issue the problem would not go away and come back again. I'm leaning more towards sensor related.
I checked O2 sensor and found a resistance of 1.2 ohms at 21 degrees F. Perhaps on the higher end for the low outdoor temp, but within spec. I am going to check again after drive the car around for awhile.
I got the car to normal operating temp and the issue came back again. There was stuttering and a lack of acceleration which eventually led to code 0171 being triggered again, however i didn't get code 1133. After i read the code it eventually cleared.
I checked the resistance of the Bank 1 senor 1 while engine was still warm and got 2.1 ohms. Obviously the resistance should go up, but how much? I can't seem to find this info anywhere.
Low fuel pressure or injector blockage.
AF sensor.
Intake or exhaust system leak.
MAP sensor.
ECU coolant sensor.
Located on cylinder head coolant exit pipe. Green/Black and Brown wires. Disconnect plug wire, sensor should have a resistance of 0.29k-0.354k at a coolant temp of 176F.
The A/F sensor works by varing output voltage not ohms. The ohm reading would be for the heater.
So I pulled the spark plugs and found they were very worn and replaced with a set of NGK's as well as a new set of wires.
Coincidentally the problem went away and I thought I was in the clear until it came back again today.
I received code 0171 again and was able to clear it once it read it a few times. I drove the car around and it seemed to be symptom free. This is making me think that something is happening intermittently triggering this lack of power and stuttering/bucking sending code 0171. Is there any other diagnostic tests that can be performed on the O2 sensor besides the heater circuit resistance?
I will check my filter and injectors later this week as a next step.
If you are using almost 2 qts of oil between oil change, you might have some internal engine oil consumption problem if you have not notice any external oil leak. Internal oil consumption problem can some times contaminate the O2 sensor, which may trigger a code P0171. toyomoho is right, the resistance that you were getting is probably for the heater of the sensor, you need to check the voltage output of the sensor to determine its operation. Depending on whether you have a Cal spec or a Federal vehicle, you can either have an A/F sensor, Cal spec, or an O2 sensor, Federal spec, for sensor. They work a little bit different from one anther, so you will need to verify that before continue to do your diagnosis.
Yes he is correct, I was measuring the heater reistance as indicated in the manual.
The sensor type is CAL spec. Do you have the voltage specifications?
If it is a Cal spec vehicle, then you have A/F sensor for sensor 1, the optimal voltage is somewhere around 3.28v. Of course it will vary up and down a little bit.
So I checked the temp sensor and got 276 ohms. Not sure of the actual engine temp. I then decided to changed the O2 sensor. So far I have about three days with no symptoms, however I 've gone longer and the issue has came back before.
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