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I’m about to replace the timing belt, the idler pulley, and the tensioner pulley (with spring) on my 1992 four cylinder with 155,000 miles. I’ve got a Chilton manual to work from. Plus I’ve replaced the alternator, torque axis mount, and the power steering pump already, so I have a good idea of the area I’ll be working in. Any suggestions, hints, or tips before I undertake this? I’m a little fuzzy on how to set the timing (lining up a mark stamped in the head through a whole in a pulley, match-marking the belt (which is being replaced?!). I don’t expect a step-by-step, but anyone who knows of any “gotchas” of things that will make the process easier would be great. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Don't forget to take off the battery terminal for the airbag. Have a piece of wood and a jack to hold the engine up when you take the engine mount off so you can angle the engine down to give you a little room. Use lots of marks to keep the pulleys from moviing. This is an interference engine, so if the timing moves a bunch, it can cause damage. You might need a pulley puller for the crank pulley. You may also need an impact gun. Some of the bolts are hard to get off. It just makes things easier. While you are there, might as well change the water pump too. The only other thing I can remember is that it is a really tight fit in there. Some nuts and bolts were hard to get to, and offset wrenches were needed. Good luck. Hope al works out.
you have to take off the plastic trim behind the wheels...
you dont wanna use an impact gun on the pulley, it wont come off. you have to use a good sized prybar with 22mm socket and also, stick something in the flexplate in the opposite side of the engine where the tranny meets it so you can turn the bolt without turning the engine. THEN you need a pulley puller 2 or 3 jawed, midsized, to pull that crank pulley off. and dont worry about marking that cause it only goes on one way.
lining up the timing marks is mad easy. the toughest part is getting your hands in to all those little screws. they blow! you prolly wont have to replace those pulleys. and if you still want to, then make sure you go to the dealer to get the spring, cause the autoparts store wont have that. they will just have the pulley itself.
to get in there easier, i took off the coolant tank, then actually unbolted the 2 a/c lines that go by the side there... just so when you need to, you can pull them out of the way slightly. i left the p/s reservoir in there...
also, chiltons blows, get a haynes or better yet, toyota factory service manual.
also, i found that using the jack didnt make that much of a difference...
I appreciate the comments.....I plan to borrow a puller to get the crank pulley off.
Also, if the crank seal is leaking, how hard is that to replace? Also, while I'm in there should I also replace the water pump and oil pump? The car is in great shape (body, mechanicals) and I'm also looking to upgrade suspension (struts, springs). The trans was replaced a year ago, so I'm willing to put some time & money into this....
Originally posted by shackelton I appreciate the comments.....I plan to borrow a puller to get the crank pulley off.
Also, if the crank seal is leaking, how hard is that to replace? Also, while I'm in there should I also replace the water pump and oil pump? The car is in great shape (body, mechanicals) and I'm also looking to upgrade suspension (struts, springs). The trans was replaced a year ago, so I'm willing to put some time & money into this....
Thanks.
I do not think replacing oil & water pump would be really necessary even at this mileage. Keep them as long as they are working or at least not before next time you change the timing belt
I do not think replacing oil & water pump would be really necessary even at this mileage. Keep them as long as they are working or at least not before next time you change the timing belt
Hmmmm....OK....I was just thinking about what a pain getting to these items are and as long as I had it apart that far....
I have some oil seepage coming out the bottom of the lower timing belt cover which is probably the front oil seal??
Originally posted by shackelton Hmmmm....OK....I was just thinking about what a pain getting to these items are and as long as I had it apart that far....
I have some oil seepage coming out the bottom of the lower timing belt cover which is probably the front oil seal??
Thanks.
Chuck
Well if you have them apart already then it might be a good idea to change them but bear in mind these are rather expensive parts (In Europe there are...)
This leak is very probably coming from the oil pump gasket. I had this problem a few months ago and I know this is a frequent problem
Originally posted by shackelton Hmmmm....OK....I was just thinking about what a pain getting to these items are and as long as I had it apart that far....
I have some oil seepage coming out the bottom of the lower timing belt cover which is probably the front oil seal??
Thanks.
Chuck
speaking of oil in timing belt, my gen3 i4 was dripping engine oil periodically, everytime i took it to local mechanic, they change the valve cover gasket, and cost me $40 each time, and last for 1 or 2 months, then i took it to dealer, and was told about 3" of oil soaking the belt,
cost me $350 to change all the engine seals and clean the oily belt, ie, crank shaft seal, oil pump seal. ever since that, i've put 30,000 miles within a year, and still very dry at the bottom of the car.
and i didn't replace the water pump when i have the timing belt changed, i rather spend the money later when water pump fails, instead of replacing something that is still working, and i am aware of the same labor will be involved.
Last edited by bronzemaxell; 01-12-2004 at 04:53 PM.
yea i've got the oil leak as well, (very very smal) but its been there for a while evidently. How much harder is it to change the front oil seal oncce ou have all the timing stuff off?
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Sorry English not being my first language I am not sure to understand anymore I mean if you need to change the oil pump seal then you'll have to remove the oil pan...
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