Changing My O2 Sensor

[BigPete]

Well, my check engine light is doing a slow strobe effect, by coming on and then going off after 2 days. It's happened twice now, so I took it in to the dealer to pull the codes. Sure 'nuff, the o2 sensor was bad (b1s1). They wanted $250 to change it out, but I've read from other post that it's a pretty simple switch. I'm just wondering if it's a good idea to try it myself, or to go ahead and shell out the money.
BTW - If anyone who's done it before can give me some tips, or things to watch out for, it would be appreciated.

[paradizecityz]

i havent changed my o2 sensor but i did have it looked at, if u lettin someone change it for u, dont change it at the dealer, go somewhere else cuz it would be a lot cheaper. here i went to a muffler shop and they say they change it for no cost at all...

[Nico]

To be honest this is pretty simple to change. I am sure you could do it yourself

[alflash]

Hello,
Dear Sir,

If your car "use" Air /Fuel Ratio Sensor,
take a look
"new inform": http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us10226.htm
and
"old" page: http://www.alflash.narod.ru/o2calif.htm
HTH

[csaxon]

Good information alflash, I enjoyed your site!

[BigPete]

Thanks for the info alflash....

So does that mean that Toyota is using these wide range air/fuel sensors in place of the normal o2 sensor?

Would I have to go get an OEM sensor to replace or would a generic one work?

Did they replace all 3 sensors on the camry with these Wide Range A/F Sensors?

[alflash]

Hello,

Dear BigPete,
If ECM "know" A/F Ratio Sensors and need use this type.
Let me know VIN-code your car and I will send to you Toyota Part No. ("OEM-number") about (Up- and downsream) Sensors and I will do some research TSB.
Sensor located behind the catalyst (downsream) is generic "switched" Oxygen Sensor.

http://www.boschusa.com/AutoOrigEqui...xhaustSensors/
make Sensors lake thes, but I don't know possibility of use...
What DTC read on dealer-Shop ?
p1130, p1150 or p1133, p1153 or p1135, p1155 or others codes?

Best Regards.

[BigPete]

I want to say the code the dealer gave me was P0130, or basically the Bay 1 Sensor 1 was bad.
My camry is a '99 v6, so if that first article was correct, then I probably do have the widerange a/f sensor.

I was thinking, if I'm changing this sensor, should I go ahead and replace the others (yeah, I know it's alot for each sensor) since they will probably go out soon, or should I just wait?

[alflash]

Dear Sir,

I'm confused.
DTC P0130 "Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)".
(Voltage output of heated oxygen sensor remains at 0.40V or more, or 0.55V or less, during idling after the engine is warmed up. 2 trip detection logic. *This DTC can be set due to other related parts failure).

IMO: "live time" this Sensor > 60 kmiles

I'm sorry, if read this DTC all your time for A/F sensors is "in vain"...
:-(((
Best Regards,

[BigPete]

I'm sorry, I don't understand what DTC means. I appreciate your help. If I understand part of your message correctly, then it is odd that my check engine light would come on for an o2 sensor with less that 60k miles. However, the code that the dealership gave me is P0130, or a problem with the Bank 1 Sensor 1.

[alflash]

Hello,
The ECM monitors engine operation and contains a self-diagnostic system which stores Diagnostic Trouble Codes (aka DTCs). Self-diagnostic system is used to provide vehicle with an on-board diagnostic system which is capable of continuously monitoring the efficiency of emission control system, and to improve diagnosis and repair when system failures occur.
If malfunction does not reoccur in 3 ignition cycles, the MIL goes off, but DTCs remain recorded in ECM memory.
If MIL remains on with engine running, a malfunction is detected.
To ensure correct diagnosis and repair, testing should be done in the following sequence:
...
- Retrieve Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Retrieve codes and record any freeze-frame data (if applicable).
- Clear Trouble Codes
- Visual Inspection all connectors of suspect circuit or component. Ensure all connections are clean and tight.
- Confirm Symptoms & Trouble Codes Perform road test. Determine if original symptoms are still present. Retrieve codes.
...

Condition; DTC P0130 is set when sensor No. 1 voltage remains at .40-.55 volt during idle, once engine is at normal operating temperature.
Possible causes are:
- Oxygen sensor.
- Fuel trim.
Technicians must make "Diagnosis & Repair Procedure":
1) Inspect circuits between ECM and oxygen sensor for opens or shorts.
2) Check oxygen sensor output voltage (at Idle and at 2500 rpm) and short-term (I check also and long-term) fuel trim (engine warm to normal operating temperature), etc.
If voltage at 2500 rpm constantly fluctuates in wide range (.3-.9 volt), perform TEST DRIVE.
...
Possible causes are when fuel trim is rich (>+20 prec):
* Air intake hose loose.
* Fuel line pressure.
* Injector blockage.
* Heated oxygen sensor.
* Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
* Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
Possible causes are when fuel trim is lean (<-20 perc):
* Fuel line pressure.
* Injector blockage or leak.
* Heated oxygen sensor.
* Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
* Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
If all this there was is made and you have recommendation: - "O2 sensor is bad, need replacement HO2S", that change is necessary ...
I hope this was helpful and feel free to ask again.
Best Wishes,

[BigPete]

Thanks for your help alflash. I'm assuming that the dealer would have performed those steps when diagnosing the problem. I'm going to put in a new sensor and see if it doesn't clear up the problem.

[alflash]

O'k.
It's very kind of you let us know how it goes!
Best Regards,

[BigPete]

Damn o2 sensors are expensive. I thought that the dealership was just trying to overcharge, but the OE sensor was $175 at autozone, and a universal sensor was still $70. Only difference between the two was the wiring harness is included with the OE, and you had to splice the old wires with the cheap one. I finally got everything changed, but the splicing kit they give is pretty ingenious, but still a major pain in the ass.

[bxin]

Hi! I'm in the same boat now. My 98 Camry LE (2.2) engine light was on and off in the past. It was on again several days ago. This made the smog check failed (becasue of the light on is a functional error). The diagnosis result is P1133 - Air-fuel sensor circuit response. the garage guy told me it'll cost $350. I called Toyota dealer, they told me $370 (labor and parts) + $60 diagnosis. I'm so frustrated. I want to do it by myself if possible. Can you give me any suggestion? Since I never did such thing before, if you can provide the information with steps, it'll be great! thanks a lot! (I'm in San Jose, CA)