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I have a 1991 Toyota Camry station wagon and i think it has a defective LSPV. No brake fluid was getting to the driver's rear side wheel and I found that fluid in both lines was getting to the valve, but only fluid coming out one of the lines.
I also have a 1991 Camry sedan that doesn't have this valve at all, so I was wondering if it's okay to simply bypass the valve and connect each pair of lines together.
I have a 1991 Toyota Camry station wagon and i think it has a defective LSPV. No brake fluid was getting to the driver's rear side wheel and I found that fluid in both lines was getting to the valve, but only fluid coming out one of the lines.
I also have a 1991 Camry sedan that doesn't have this valve at all, so I was wondering if it's okay to simply bypass the valve and connect each pair of lines together.
All advice welcome!
That valve is mostly on trucks, but is on the station wagons with rear drum brakes. What it does is stop the rear drums from locking up under light loads. If you bypass it you are looking at a world of hurt. Of coarse you can do it but I would advise against it. Drum brakes need alot less line pressure than discs and this is the reason for it on your station wagon. If you remove it or bypass it you will end locking up the rear wheels one heck of a lot and one rainy day in a corner.... You get the idea.
Now the bad news. It takes special test equipment to check it (aka your expensive dealer). You should get it tested. The good news is they may be able to adjust tension on the valve. But if not you will have to have it replaced.
EDIT: Oh and more bad news changing it is not something you can do unless you have the proper test equipment. The new valve will have to be adjusted to the right load.
EDIT2: Another thing have you changed or altered your rear suspension in anyway? That will trigger a lighter pressure being sent to the rear or more to the front
Good luck
And happy driving
Last edited by judge34411; 07-24-2009 at 09:35 AM.
Oh and I could of sworn that car had disc brakes in the rear?? Would be surprised they would use that valve with 4 wheel disc.
Normally on a 4 disc set up you just have a proportioning valve just off the master cylinder. That is even used with most disc/drum setups except a metering valve is added in for the combo.
Last edited by judge34411; 07-24-2009 at 10:04 AM.
That valve is mostly on trucks, but is on the station wagons with rear drum brakes. What it does is stop the rear drums from locking up under light loads. If you bypass it you are looking at a world of hurt. Of coarse you can do it but I would advise against it. Drum brakes need alot less line pressure than discs and this is the reason for it on your station wagon. If you remove it or bypass it you will end locking up the rear wheels one heck of a lot and one rainy day in a corner.... You get the idea.
Now the bad news. It takes special test equipment to check it (aka your expensive dealer). You should get it tested. The good news is they may be able to adjust tension on the valve. But if not you will have to have it replaced.
EDIT: Oh and more bad news changing it is not something you can do unless you have the proper test equipment. The new valve will have to be adjusted to the right load.
EDIT2: Another thing have you changed or altered your rear suspension in anyway? That will trigger a lighter pressure being sent to the rear or more to the front
Good luck
And happy driving
Thanks so much for the response! This station wagon has drums in back for sure! How come my regular Toyota Camry sedan doesn't have any valve, but the station wagon does? They are about the same size vehicle? ( or does the sedan have one hidden that I don't know about- near the master cylinder???)
Thanks so much for the response! This station wagon has drums in back for sure! How come my regular Toyota Camry sedan doesn't have any valve, but the station wagon does? They are about the same size vehicle? ( or does the sedan have one hidden that I don't know about- near the master cylinder???)
Exactly it is right by the master cylinder. It is a very basic proportioning unit with another unit as I mentioned. Both work together a % (rear brakes after all only do about 20% of the work) is sent to the back all the time and the other unit I have mentioned (metering valve). That valve delays the fluid until enough force is applied so a delay happens to the front brakes. Sort of a drag effect from the back. I imagine they put that other system on your station wagon due to possible high loads of cargo. The reason I asked about suspension is that unit is attached to the suspension and senses loads and adjusts the pressure given to the rear brakes. A very sophisticated system.
You could always put a racing proportioning valve on the rear brakes and do manual adjustments. But my money is on sticking with standard.
Hope that explains it all.
Good luck with the problem (if indeed you have a problem). Oh try and drop a few hundred pounds (bagged) sand in the back and see how rear brakes work. Just might need that adjustment.
Exactly it is right by the master cylinder. It is a very basic proportioning unit with another unit as I mentioned. Both work together a % (rear brakes after all only do about 20% of the work) is sent to the back all the time and the other unit I have mentioned (metering valve). That valve delays the fluid until enough force is applied so a delay happens to the front brakes. Sort of a drag effect from the back. I imagine they put that other system on your station wagon due to possible high loads of cargo. The reason I asked about suspension is that unit is attached to the suspension and senses loads and adjusts the pressure given to the rear brakes. A very sophisticated system.
You could always put a racing proportioning valve on the rear brakes and do manual adjustments. But my money is on sticking with standard.
Hope that explains it all.
Good luck with the problem (if indeed you have a problem). Oh try and drop a few hundred pounds (bagged) sand in the back and see how rear brakes work. Just might need that adjustment.
Is it possible that the reason the valve seems not to be working could be related to the fact that I have the car up in the air with the wheels off and the rear springs more or less fully extended? I wondered that and lifted the drum up with a jack (thus reducing the stretch on the spring pulling the valve) and it didn't seem to make any difference.
Thanks so much for your knowledgable answers, by the way!!!!!!!
Is it possible that the reason the valve seems not to be working could be related to the fact that I have the car up in the air with the wheels off and the rear springs more or less fully extended? I wondered that and lifted the drum up with a jack (thus reducing the stretch on the spring pulling the valve) and it didn't seem to make any difference.
Thanks so much for your knowledgable answers, by the way!!!!!!!
Yup, you are creating a fully unloaded situation and closing off the valve to the limit. Put those bags of sand in the back and see how it stops, try it in a curve. If all feels good it is maybe good. You cannot test these units by unloading them. They need to be used with the right equipment under load. Sorry I cannot say more than that, brakes save lives and kills as well. To me the way you are trying it is not the best. Your thinking is right just the methods and equipment is off. And your not giving a full equal load like that. If not sure take it in and have it tested. But I got a feeling it is okay. But your life rides on those brakes.
I will try an say it another way does the car stop evenly in a straight line? Does it over steer worse than it used to breaking in a corner? An after several brakings get out and feel the rear hubs are they hot? That is about the limit you can do at home to test those valves. An you are clearly mechanically minded so you know what the answers should be. An try that with a load in the back and nothing in the back. A jacked up car with a uneven load will not even begin to let you know if that valve is good. But that hard drive will sure tell you. It might be just fine.
You are AWESOME! Thanks again for taking all this time to help me. I still have ONE question... shouldn't I be able to bleed the rear driver's wheel at least a little bit with the car up in the air.. because as it is, there's no fluid from that valve all the way down to the brake cylinder.
I bought this car to fix up for someone, so I really don't know how it ever drove, but I feel as though I can be sure that I'll have no brakes in that rear wheel since all that air is in that line (from the valve down to the wheel cylinder, as I mentioned).
You are AWESOME! Thanks again for taking all this time to help me. I still have ONE question... shouldn't I be able to bleed the rear driver's wheel at least a little bit with the car up in the air.. because as it is, there's no fluid from that valve all the way down to the brake cylinder.
I bought this car to fix up for someone, so I really don't know how it ever drove, but I feel as though I can be sure that I'll have no brakes in that rear wheel since all that air is in that line (from the valve down to the wheel cylinder, as I mentioned).
Don't bleed it, pump the fluid up from the brakes. An do it on the ground with the weight on the wheels. Keep doing until no air in the master bubbles up. Its a pain with those valves but it will work. Even a stupid good oil can full of fluid with a plastic hose over the nipple will work (small clear hose like on fish tank air filters units). Best with 2 people. You might have to do it a few times. You will feel when the air is out. Going from down up is always best. You will have to drain the master a few times. reuse the fluid if it is clean. Hope I explained it well. As you are doing it close the nipple and master and pump the brakes sometimes. It goes fast. Then take it for a spin and see.
EDIT: Guess that is still bleeding but in reverse.
Last edited by judge34411; 07-24-2009 at 09:10 PM.
Don't bleed it, pump the fluid up from the brakes. An do it on the ground with the weight on the wheels. Keep doing until no air in the master bubbles up. Its a pain with those valves but it will work. Even a stupid good oil can full of fluid with a plastic hose over the nipple will work (small clear hose like on fish tank air filters units). Best with 2 people. You might have to do it a few times. You will feel when the air is out. Going from down up is always best. You will have to drain the master a few times. reuse the fluid if it is clean. Hope I explained it well. As you are doing it close the nipple and master and pump the brakes sometimes. It goes fast. Then take it for a spin and see.
EDIT: Guess that is still bleeding but in reverse.
Thanks, so you are saying that the air in the line will work itself out, but I may have to bleed the Master cylinder as a result?
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