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Let me introduce myself. I'm currently serving the US Navy for 8 years now.
I have owned my 1992 Camry with 270,000 miles on it for about 7 years now. Just replaced timing belt 2 years ago. Second one I believe... and should be on par. Radiator was replaced nearly 10 years ago but only because someone busted it. Other then the normal tune up (plugs, fuel filter, belts) nothing else has gone wrong with this car.
So I filled up on gas the other day and drove it home with no problems. Then the very next morning, it would not start. Turns over just fine just wont start. At first i thought my wife (who's driving it and tried to start it that morning) had flooded the car. No abnormal fuel smell from the exhaust, and the normal fuel smell from the throttle body.
I've spent hours on end on the intertube researching possible things that could be wrong, so tomorrow i'll start with the ignition and listen to the fuel pump to see if it's actually working.
My main question is, the OBD1 diagnostics trick with the single wire, what points do you jump? And it's located under the drivers side dash i believe. Oval in shape.
There's also something in the engine bay, passenger side, that says Diagnostics.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have enough knowledge and no how to DYI... just need guidance.
EDIT: I found the trouble codes page http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ and am extremely grateful for whomever found that and put it on the DYI section of this site.
"My main question is, the OBD1 diagnostics trick with the single wire, what points do you jump? And it's located under the drivers side dash i believe. Oval in shape.
There's also something in the engine bay, passenger side, that says Diagnostics."
Use the one in the engine bay by the driver's side; the one that says diagnostics. For what points to jump and what the codes mean, I would check any manaul. If you don't have a manual, you can download one for free over at the top of the Camry forum at AutomotiveForums.com. Download the generation 3 (1992-1996) manual.
Incidently, the link you posted is for OBD2 cars (1996 and newer), not OBD1 cars like your's.
A few basic tips on troubleshooting a no start condition:
I would first test your car to see if it's a fuel or spark related problem.
1. To test for fuel, remove the big tube leading to the throttle body and spray some O2 safe carb cleaner in there. Now put the tube back on and try to start it. If it now sputters a bit where it didn't sputter before, you have identified you have a fuel related problem.
2. If you have determinded by test number 1 that it is not a fuel related problem, then it figures to be a spark related problem. To test for this remove one of the spark plugs or use an extra plug. Put the plug in one of the spark plug wires, leaving the other end attached to the distributor. Then let the spark plug touch some metal portion of the engine to ground it. Don't hold on to it with your hands, just to be safe. Then have someone crank the engine over while you observe the plug for the proper spark. You should see a bright blue spark, not a weak orange colored spark or no spark at all.
3. Next I would remove the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you observe the rotor. If the rotor turns, the timing belt is intact. If it doesn't turn, you have a broken timing belt.
4. If you have determined that you have a no spark condition and the timing belt is intact I would next check the coil inside the distributor. They are a known trouble spot on the early generation Camrys, including your's. To test the coil you will need a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs fron any manual. Refer to the manual you downloaded for the procedure and the specs. If you don't have a digital volt/ohmeter you can at least remove the coil form inside the distributor and inspect it for cracks. Many times that's how these coils fail. The spark produced by the coil shorts itself to ground through the crack on to any metal inside the distributor.
Good luck.
Mike
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Mike Gerber For This Useful Post:
OP - does this car have a 4 cyl or 6 cyl engine? 6 cyl have the diagnostic on the passenger side; I don't know about the 4 cyl. Since you said you found a "diagnostic" thingy on the passenger side in the engine bay, and Mike mentioned it on the left, I'm gonna guess you've got a 6 cyl.
With the ignition switch in the off position, jumper the TE1 and E1 terminals on that diagnostic plug in the engine bay. There should be a label inside the cap showing which is which. Then turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position; do NOT start the engine. The Check Engine light will start blinking; count them.
__________________
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
The Following User Says Thank You to BMR For This Useful Post:
OP - does this car have a 4 cyl or 6 cyl engine? 6 cyl have the diagnostic on the passenger side; I don't know about the 4 cyl. Since you said you found a "diagnostic" thingy on the passenger side in the engine bay, and Mike mentioned it on the left, I'm gonna guess you've got a 6 cyl.
With the ignition switch in the off position, jumper the TE1 and E1 terminals on that diagnostic plug in the engine bay. There should be a label inside the cap showing which is which. Then turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position; do NOT start the engine. The Check Engine light will start blinking; count them.
thanks to both of you!
I neglected to mention i had a 4cyl
The diagnostic in the engine bay is on the passenger side, there is also one under the dash under the steering wheel. It too has the same points.
Weird.
This page http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ is for both OBDI and II. you have to scroll down midway to see the OBDI references and codes. Very very handy indeed so I tip my hat to whomever linked it/created it.
Thanks again for the replies.... i work nights so working on my car without a garage sucks up here in northern western washington where the day's right now are 60degrees but the nights are still 35-45 degrees.
"This page http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ is for both OBDI and II. you have to scroll down midway to see the OBDI references and codes."
Sorry, I missed that as I originally glanced at your link. The link also shows you what 2 pins to connect in the diagnositic connector. You would still benefit from downloading the Toyota factory service manual I linked above. If there are codes, it will give you test procedures for troublshooting those codes. It's free, so you ahve nothing to lose.
Mike
The Following User Says Thank You to Mike Gerber For This Useful Post:
"This page http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/ is for both OBDI and II. you have to scroll down midway to see the OBDI references and codes."
Sorry, I missed that as I originally glanced at your link. The link also shows you what 2 pins to connect in the diagnositic connector. You would still benefit from downloading the Toyota factory service manual I linked above. If there are codes, it will give you test procedures for troublshooting those codes. It's free, so you ahve nothing to lose.
Mike
I did thank you... and that downloaded manual is WAY BETTER then Haynes manual i have. Thanks again. Next step, finding a wire lol.
Also someone put allot of what appears to be grease on the diagnostics plug in the engine bay. I'm wondering if my problem started there... who knows. All the fuses are OK so im guessing not.
I did thank you... and that downloaded manual is WAY BETTER then Haynes manual i have. Thanks again. Next step, finding a wire lol.
Also someone put allot of what appears to be grease on the diagnostics plug in the engine bay. I'm wondering if my problem started there... who knows. All the fuses are OK so im guessing not.
You can use a paperclip if you can't find a piece of wire.
What looks like grease is probably dielectric grease. It's packed in there at the factory. It's intended to be there. It keeps the moisture out of those pins in the diagnostic connector, while allowing current to pass through. Don't remove it.
You can use a paperclip if you can't find a piece of wire.
What looks like grease is probably dielectric grease. It's packed in there at the factory. It's intended to be there. It keeps the moisture out of those pins in the diagnostic connector, while allowing current to pass through. Don't remove it.
Mike
figured as much. it's that milky white grease. I'm charging the battery up as we speak and then will try the paperclip trick.
pics of my car? bleh looks like every other silver camry out there :P jk i'll take some tomorrow. It's in rather decent shape on the outside... plastic knobs on the inside for the heater and fan broke many years ago. Nothing like pliers to bail you out.
... plastic knobs on the inside for the heater and fan broke many years ago. Nothing like pliers to bail you out.
If the square shafts for those controls aren't all buggered up, the knobs are easy as pie to replace. They just snap on. Used ones come up on eBay all the time cheap; like $10 or $15 for the set of 3.
And like Mike said, that grease in the diag plug is there from the factory. Keeps the contacts from corroding.
__________________
1992 Camry LE, V6 (3VZ-FE), ABS brakes, 330k miles, dark emerald pearl, owned since new.
1996 Avalon XLS, ABS brakes, moonroof, white, acquired w/ 139k miles, now at 261k.
2001 Yamaha FZ1, Ivan's jet kit, resprung all around, Ohlins in the rear, Race Tech cartridge emulators in the forks, 45k miles.
If the square shafts for those controls aren't all buggered up, the knobs are easy as pie to replace. They just snap on. Used ones come up on eBay all the time cheap; like $10 or $15 for the set of 3.
And like Mike said, that grease in the diag plug is there from the factory. Keeps the contacts from corroding.
hey thanks....
yea unfortunately the previous owner used the pliers trick... but stripped the shafts however nothing an epoxy mold wouldnt fix.... just never got around to it.
Have you ever cleaned the idle air control valve (IAC)? This is a common problem with camry engines - if it is clogged by crud the engine may not start.
Have you ever cleaned the idle air control valve (IAC)? This is a common problem with camry engines - if it is clogged by crud the engine may not start.
i have not... i'll find out where it's at and take a look. im guessing you should be able to either looking inside or blow inside it eh
Here's a thread on cleaning the throttle body and the idle air control valve on the 4 cylinder 5SFE engine. It's the later version of the engine but the cleaning process should be the same on your car:
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Hello all 270,000 mile 92 camry owner
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