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Old 06-08-2010, 01:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Distributor problems? Help please! :(

It's a 1987 Camry, the original motor seized and was swapped out...

It cranks, but won't catch. Getting fuel, fuel pump works fine (tested both).

Before car seized, no starting problems. So I'm temporarily ruling out the ignitor...

Replaced dist. cap and plug wires, no difference. No spark at all.

Primary coil measures .7-.9 ohms (Manual says .4-.5ish, but the original-seized-motor also measures the same, but it ran??)

Secondary coil within specs. The N-/GE/N are all within the specs also.

What I know:

The little "two clip" connector up top, is delivering only 5.5V (?!). 5.5V on the -, and 12V on the +.

When plugged into the distributor, both the - and the + on the coil become... positive?! (As in one multimeter lead on the terminals, one on the ground. Both become the same?)

And thus, no "voltage" on the terminals itself. Confuzzling

Help PLEASE!
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Old 06-12-2010, 05:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oscaryu1 View Post
It's a 1987 Camry, the original motor seized and was swapped out...

It cranks, but won't catch. Getting fuel, fuel pump works fine (tested both).

Before car seized, no starting problems. So I'm temporarily ruling out the ignitor...

Replaced dist. cap and plug wires, no difference. No spark at all.

Primary coil measures .7-.9 ohms (Manual says .4-.5ish, but the original-seized-motor also measures the same, but it ran??)

Secondary coil within specs. The N-/GE/N are all within the specs also.

What I know:

The little "two clip" connector up top, is delivering only 5.5V (?!). 5.5V on the -, and 12V on the +.

When plugged into the distributor, both the - and the + on the coil become... positive?! (As in one multimeter lead on the terminals, one on the ground. Both become the same?)

And thus, no "voltage" on the terminals itself. Confuzzling

Help PLEASE!
So the battery gets hot then? Think youyouyou are saying it wrong? An getting real crude, put some either down the pipe while someone cranks.
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Old 06-13-2010, 10:28 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh and the lower voltage would be the field? Needs very low voltage. I guessing here because I am not there to see it.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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"Primary coil measures .7-.9 ohms (Manual says .4-.5ish, but the original-seized-motor also measures the same, but it ran??)

Secondary coil within specs. The N-/GE/N are all within the specs also.
"

The coil can be in spec and still have a crack in it that causes it to short to ground when in use. Since you have a good working spare coil from the original engine, swap that in and try to start it.

Mike
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Old 06-19-2010, 08:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I don't think on this motor its possible to put the distributor in 180 degrees off (is it?). I did that one time when i did an in-car overhaul on my nissan pickup. (All that work, cranked it over, she won't start...take the distributor out and reposition- Starts!)

-Did the replacement motor ever run in this car? If not, consider some possible issues: one or more wires replaced incorrectly at installation time; ground wire loose or not bolted back down at all; spark plug wires out of order?

-try another distributor, possibly a junk yard has one?

-
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Old 06-19-2010, 11:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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"I don't think on this motor its possible to put the distributor in 180 degrees off (is it?)."

You are correct. It's not possible.

Mike
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
"I don't think on this motor its possible to put the distributor in 180 degrees off (is it?)."

You are correct. It's not possible.

Mike
What the heck Mike. You never tried to put a round peg in a square hole?

Or is that Whole?

An again I will say shoot some starter fluid down the gullet while cranking and see what happens.
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