Double check...

[_VVTi_]

hi, I have a Gen3 Camry with a 1MZ-FE engine, and this summer i'm kind of determined for a DIY CAI. I've search the forum already, and I did get lots of information about the DIY. BUT, majority of the information is for 3VZ-FE However, with all the information i got, i'm still confused on the instructions on how to put the CAI together.

So far this is the order what I think it should be:
Steps:
1) Throttle Body
2) Coupler between the throttle body and the pipe
3) Pipe A
A) Drill hole for the hose.
4) Coupler between the Pipe A and MAF sensor
5) MAF sensor
6) Coupler between the MAF sensor and Pipe B
7) Pipe B
8) Elbow Joint between Pipe B and Pipe C
9) Pipe C
10) Coupler between Pipe C and Cone Filter
11) Filter

Now, I have some questions:

Question 1:
Step 3A:
According to Haynes manual, the pipe that connects between the throttle body and MAF sensor, there is one hose that goes into one side of the pipe, and on the other side of the pipe, there's a black box.
What do I use to fit the hose into the pipe? do i just drill a hole and plug the hose in?
And do i still need the black box?

Question 2:
What size of pipe do need? if i remember correctly, the diameter of the pipe i should be using is 2.5" right?

Question 3:
Is there a specific type or material the coupler should be made out of? And what size?

Question 4:
Same as Q3, but asking about the elbow joint.

Question 5:
How long of a Pipe should i purchase?

Question 6:
Any tips or special attention when I do this DIY?
And I want to buy everything in one stop, so is there any special tools or materials that i need?

ONE LAST QUESTION!!!!!!

I was wondering if this alternative route is possible:

1) Keep everything stock from the throttle body to the MAF sensor
2) Coupler between MAF sensor to Pipe B
3) Pipe B
4) Elbow joint between Pipe B and Pipe C
5) Coupler between Pipe C and Cone Filter
6) Cone Filter

Sorry, everyone, i know that was ALOT of reading, but i really would like to make this by very first DIY a perfect one. And I don't want to mess it up. I want it to be ONE TAKE AND DONE, from the shopping to making it.

THANK YOU GUYS!!!

[mobes]

That's mostly correct.

You don't need a coupler between pipe C and the cone filter, the filter has a built in clamp.

You don't need the black box that's attached to the factory A pipe.

You'll need a fitting to tap into the A pipe to attach the hose, it can't be attached to the hole alone. You can use a brass one from Home Depot and use some epoxy to secure it.

I have a '94 with a 1MZ-FE and I used 3" pipe. I think Silver Streak used 3" for his 3VZ as well. I think most of the 2.5" recommendations were probably for the 5S-FE.

You can either use regular rubber couplers or the fancy silicone ones. It doesn't really matter, as long as they fit and you're satisfied with the way they look.

The 3" elbow joint from Home Depot that I used actually had about 4" ends on it, I cut them off and just used the inner, smaller part. The couplers were for thick pipe so they're bigger than is necessary.

About 6' should be long eneough. If I remember correctly, the A pipe is about 12", the B pipe is about 16", and the C pipe is 6-8". A 4' section of pipe should be enough for the whole thing. Just make sure you measure twice and cut a little long if you can't get a good measurement, you can always shorten the pipe but making it longer is a bitch!

You'll need something to cut the pipe, the usual tools to disassemble the stock stuff, and a grinder or file to clean up the cut edges of the pipe. Allow a full day to do the work, as you'll have to remove the wheel, the splash guards, resonator, stock intake piping and airbox, battery, and you'll have to unbolt the fuse boxes and let them wiggle a bit to make it easier to get the pipe through. Everything goes back like you found it except the old airbox, resonator, and intake tube. If you finish early you can always go cruise.

Yes you can leave the A pipe stock, but you may as well replace it with a new matching metal pipe or it will look a bit funny and may restrict the airflow a bit because it's ribbed. (for her pleasure )

[_VVTi_]

Mobes, thank you for your reply:

"The 3" elbow joint from Home Depot that I used actually had about 4" ends on it, I cut them off and just used the inner, smaller part. The couplers were for thick pipe so they're bigger than is necessary."

I don't quite get this part, shouldn't the entire tube of the elbow joint be 4", how is it possible just to cut the ends off and use it after? cuz after you cut it, it should still be 4" right?

You think it's possible to do this project in 7 hours? (my GF doesnt' like me messing with the car, so gotta do it when she's working hehehe)

The reason i thought about the alternative route, it's because I dont' want to drill a hole in my Pipe A, as i don't know what size the hole should be, and i don't know what kind and size of tap i should be looking at.

thanks once again.

[mobes]

The elbow coupler was about 3" in the middle and had ends with about 4" openings. It was not the same size all the way through. I don't have a pic but you'll understand when you go to the hardware store and see them.

7 hours should be plenty. I'd only expect 2-3 hours but it's better to leave yourself extra time to make a second trip for parts if you need to or do stuff twice if you mess up the first time. I always seem to run out of time because I only allow myself as long as I think it will take.

[mobes]

I found a pic that somewhat resembles the elbow, the rubber one doesn't have quite such funky ends, but you can see how it has different sized ends:

[mobes]

Another thing you could do is leave pipe A solid and attach a little breather filter to the valve cover where the hose was. You can get the filters at Checker, Pep Boys, Autozone, or whatever you have nearby.

[mobes]

Calgary, huh? I'd say you live nearby but it's still a 10 hour drive even if you are in the closest province.

[_VVTi_]

Originally posted by mobes
Another thing you could do is leave pipe A solid and attach a little breather filter to the valve cover where the hose was. You can get the filters at Checker, Pep Boys, Autozone, or whatever you have nearby.

So does that mean i don't need to attach a hose to the pipe?
what does the "little breather filter" look like?

and what does that hose do anyways?


one more thing about the elbow coupler.
when the pipe bends down to the front fender, it has to be 90 degrees right?
cuz when i looked at AEM's CAI, it's not quite 90 degrees, but it's quite sharp.

[_VVTi_]

and by any chance you have a picture of your CAI?

[mobes]

Here's a breather filter on eBay. The small hose is to allow the crankcase to pull air from the intake, it's part of the PCV system. It will work just fine with a filter on it so it pulls from the engine bay, the temperature of the air doesn't matter for that.

The bend can be 90 degrees and work fine, it will be attached by a rubber coupler so it will flex a little anyway.

I don't have a pic of mine (I'd go snap you one but you can't see much with the wheel and splash guards on) but here's a link to Silver Streak's site. Everything should be the same except you will only have the front hose connected to the A pipe.

[_VVTi_]

so it doesn't matter whether the air is hot or cold that's going into the crankcase?
hmm... if the temperature of the air doens't really matter, then i might just go for the breather filter, but another concern would be what if the air going into the crankcase is dusty?
Lets say i'm just going to drill a hole in the pipe and use the stock hose, what size of the brass tap (as you mentioned earlier) should i get?

i noticed that silverstreak did not use Pipe A, and just started from AFM sensor.

[mobes]

Silver Streak replaced pipe A, it was at a later date though and is on this page. The air going into the crankcase shouldn't be dusty, that's what the small filter is for. If you do tap the pipe, the fitting is 3/8" I believe. The page I linked to above shows it rather clearly.

[_VVTi_]

ahhhh.....icic.
the width of the tap, is 3/8", and the length doesnt' matter i assume?
This page shows it very clear for the tap.

and i noticed Silver Streak used a nut to hold the tap in place. You mentioned using epoxy, which one is more secure? And i can use the stock hose right?

Also, all of these parts is available at any home hardware store in the plumbing aisle right?

Somehow i think i will screw up during the process haha...and make another trip for more parts. Should i take out the stock intake for measurements and fitting? or measure from inside the engine and take out the stock intake after I have finish making the CAI?

[_VVTi_]

hope you don't mind with all the questions, even though i'm like about a month away from making it because of exams.

[_VVTi_]

is there any lose of power in anywhere of the powerband?
because i recall there's a lose of power w/ CAI... don't know if my memory is just playing tricks on me.