REAR SWAY BAR INSTALLED - read on:

[kenratboy]

INSTALL:

My dad woke me up at 6:30 this morning (I got home late from work), and we got to work.

It started out really bad. We had some ramps to back the car onto, and they kept skipping back, and the car would not go. After about 15 minutes, we finally had screw drivers between the expansion joints as pins to keep the ramps from jumping (sliding) back. That did it.

Then things went from bad to…AWESOME!!! There are a total of 6 bolts to be removed, 3 on each side. There was one on the ‘link’ or whatever near the wheel, and they broke free with a impact wrench, and then we used a box end wrench and a hex key in the middle to undo it. Very easy. Then there were two holding the bushing bracket in place. Again, quick shot with the impact wrench, and they just came off. You could probably do it with a ratchet handle, they were not seized or anything.

After that, the bar was free, and ready to be removed. You WILL HAVE TO REMOVE THE EXHAUST SHROUD. As a tip, work one end down and out in FRONT of the rear wheel, then it just wiggles out. Only took 60 seconds. Putting the new one in was just the same. Another tip, there is a bolt at the back (near the sway bar) of the exhaust shroud, and about a 1/2 inch (1.25 cm :p) between that and another piece, pop the sway bar down past that. The old and new ones fit thru.

Reassembly was very fast. I put white lithium grease on the bushing fittings and slipped them onto the bar. Next, put the bracket over it and finger tighten the screws in on both sides. Then, same thing with the ‘link’ bars near the wheels. Then we hand tightened all the fasteners to a ‘tight’ fit – they will not just loosen, but they are not too tight. It sounds as easy as it was for us.

RESULTS:

Is it worth $130? YES.

I drove up a nice twisty mountain road that is only 5 minutes from my driveway to test it out. I really did ‘feel’ the difference. First, the car just feels more responsive. The number one thing is: it no longer WALLOWS. Before, the car would kinda move around and feel sloppy. Now, it feels tighter, and more controlled. When cornering, the turn in is better, and you really can feel the fact there is less under steer (feels ‘natural’) and I would also say less body roll. Because I desire more of a (cliché ahead) ‘sports car handing’, I like the ride quality, it feel like you are more in control of the car.

SUMMARY:

It was worth the money.

The car handles MUCH better.

It was fun!

PICTURES:

Give me a few hours. There was nothing to photograph for the install, but I have some pics of the old/new bars and bushings, and pictures of the installed bar under the car.

I will now open the floor for questions.

[kenratboy]

No, this is my first (but not last!) mod.

I would tell people that don't want to spend $750+ on springs/struts/installation to do this bar, it makes a difference.

Where did you get your front tower brace bar?

[da_horse]

all i have done suspension wise to my camry so far is a front strut brace and a whiteline rear swaybar. the strut brace didnt make a difference that was easily notable, however after i put on the rear swaybar, immediate results, makes the car feel so much more tighter and stiffer, however it makes me realise the struts and springs need and over haul

ufoz, definately worth the moolah for the rear swaybar

[Ratko]

I hated the Camry's suspension before I installed the Whiteline for the 1st time. Now with the TRD bar, its just as good... Any aftermarket bar is better than stock.

[white90dx]

Originally posted by UfoZ8myCow
ive been mulling it over for a while now... i already have the stiff struts and springs and strut bar, not to mention the low profile tires... do i really want it to be even STIFFER? im conflicted.

It will not feel any stiffer in daily driving. DO IT!!! You will not regret it. Heck, I'll help you install it.

-Charlie

[Calvin327]

Originally posted by Ratko
I hated the Camry's suspension before I installed the Whiteline for the 1st time. Now with the TRD bar, its just as good... Any aftermarket bar is better than stock.

Hey how did you install the TRD sway bar onto your gen 3? Did you have to mod it? Is it better than the whiteline one?

[']['R][) camry]

ya.. I don't want to spend more as I already have:

H&R 1.3" Lowering Springs
17" Enkei RF1 Mags with Michelin HX MXM4 225/45/R17
KYB Gr2 Struts
Reactive Strut tower bar

and I just spent a lot on new rear wheel bearings

But if it is a huge improvment for only $130 US.. but + shipping and border costs.. it will probably cost me $230 Can just to get the thing..

[Ratko]

^ We have you on the Whiteline GB don't we?

[Ratko]

Originally posted by Calvin327
Hey how did you install the TRD sway bar onto your gen 3? Did you have to mod it? Is it better than the whiteline one?

It is made for the Gen4/Solara... All I needed to buy were a set of two bushing brackets from Toyota ($8 CAD each) and the rest was gravy.

Here is the only difference between Gen3 and Gen4 swaybars, this silly bracket:


So basically any Gen4 swaybar, including the 20mm Whiteline Swaybar for the Gen4 will fit. The TRD is 19mm, but has adjustable settings (Street/Race).

[']['R][) camry]

Originally posted by Ratko
^ We have you on the Whiteline GB don't we?

well I was in it but then I decided to spend the money on the struts and other crap... if it is still possible to send money in and get in on it... and it would be a my house for around $150 or so then I would get it I guess But I don't have an impact wrench or anything.. so I would have to try to get a good deal on an install somewhere (but I think that can be arranged)

[kenratboy]

More reactions:

The car just feels lighter on its feet. It feels like it lost 300 pounds (or about 140 kg ) and the balance feels MUCH better. Not technically, but my gut feeling.

Because I have stock suspension parts, the car does eventually reach a point where there is body roll, but the car is going faster at that point.

Overall, it feel more balanced and agile, and it is MUCH better to drive.

[kenratboy]

Few pics:

This one is taken from the middle of the car looking towards the wheel. Where the yellow bushing it, there are two bolts (one pointing straight down, the other off at a 45-degree angle), you can see both if you look closly. Then there is the rusty bolt at the end of the sway bar. You need to slip a box end wrench over it, and then stick a hex key in the middle. It is that simple. Other than that, just pulling the three hex head screw/bolt things from the exhaust shroud (you can't miss it)

http://www.pbase.com/image/28528364

This was taken UPSIDE DOWN, so don't get confused. Just a more detailed shot of the install.

http://www.pbase.com/image/28528455

[impactX]

I installed this long ago along with Bilstein Struts and Eibach Springs, the difference is huge from stock; but now I am used to it.

I also installed the Whiteline FSB. When I push the car to its limit, the car feels really heavy. Try driving a Mini Cooper S, now that thing's handling is sweet right out of the box.

[kenratboy]

Originally posted by impactX
I installed this long ago along with Bilstein Struts and Eibach Springs, the difference is huge from stock; but now I am used to it.

I also installed the Whiteline FSB. When I push the car to its limit, the car feels really heavy. Try driving a Mini Cooper S, now that thing's handling is sweet right out of the box.

I was told to ONLY install the rear sway bar, as a stiffer one will just counter act what the rear did. At least thats how it is on a V6 Gen 4.

[impactX]

Originally posted by kenratboy
I was told to ONLY install the rear sway bar, as a stiffer one will just counter act what the rear did. At least thats how it is on a V6 Gen 4.

Yup, it would put understeering back into the equation, but the front of the car is basically flat when cornering and I get better steering response.

haha oops, late reply...