need advice on replacing timing belt & water pump

[D0UG]

1993 Camry 4 cyl

The timing belt and waterpump was replaced about 40K miles ago and now the water pump is rattling again already. The dealer estimates about $400 + tax to replace timing belt, drive belts, water pump, and coolant.

I have done some mechanic work but have never replaced timing belt on front wheel drive car.
Does it require lifting the engine?
Are any special tools needed?
About how many hours does it take?

[profuse007]

this is a very simple car to work w/, lots of room comparing to those other hondas 4cyls. email me at lam.tran@earthlink.net and ill take you through it

no special tools needed, just refer to a repair manual like haynes.

[88 LE]

Originally posted by D0UG
Does it require lifting the engine?

No, but you need to support the engine from below to unbolt the dogbone mount.

Are any special tools needed?

Only thing I can think of is a pulley puller. You need it to remove the crank pulley.


Instructions on replacing timing belt:

http://www.yotarepair.com/5S-FEtimingbelt.html

[rawdawg]

Yowsa.

I was charged $300.00 for a timing belt, water pump and new engine seals. I only go to the dealer for little parts like filters, plugs and chrome keychains. The garage did it in about four hours.

[profuse007]

best deal i have heard

[Ken4]

Originally posted by 88 LE
Only thing I can think of is a pulley puller. You need it to remove the crank pulley.

Haynes manual says to just wedge the starter ring gear to stop the motor from turning. Then unbolt the crank pulley.

[88 LE]

Originally posted by Ken4
Haynes manual says to just wedge the starter ring gear to stop the motor from turning. Then unbolt the crank pulley.

Thats only to remove the bolt.

You still need a puller to remove the pulley.

[Ken4]

Opps!

Haynes goes on to say....often the crankshaft pulley can be removed with even applications of the pry bar - if you use a puller, it should be the type that attaches to the hub only (do not use an outside jaw-type puller)

I wonder why you cant use an outside jaw type puller??

[profuse007]

yeah, do not use jaw type puller. the outer rim is pretty soft, so need to pry it out both side evenly. i just use one pry bar and tap both side.

so special tool need yo. if you dont have a compressor w/ a powerful gun, you may want to take ur car out to a local shop and pay them 5-15 bucks to pop out the crank bolt. i didnt have to take mine, but save you a lot of time trying to wedge the flywheel and use a breaker bar(long bar ratchet).

-if youre to replace the cam seal, which you should anyways. BTW, dont go the dealer to get ur seals, cause they use aftermarket seals. also honda use aftermarket seals too.

-if youre to look at the DIY link someone posted above, youll need a spanner wrench(very convenience) to hold the cam to take off the cam gear bolt. you do not need it if youre to open valve cover and use a wrench to hold at the camshaft.

[D0UG]

Thanks.

I have a 1/2" impact wrench and bolt type puller.

I have not heard of replacing the cam shaft seal during this. Can the seal be replaced without removing the bearing caps?

[88 LE]

Originally posted by D0UG
Can the seal be replaced without removing the bearing caps?

No.

To replace the cam seal you need to remove the valve cover, unbolt the camgear, backing plate, and bearing cap (the one (left side) at the end of the intake cam).

The cam seal is the black donut looking thing.

[profuse007]

Originally posted by D0UG
Thanks.

I have a 1/2" impact wrench and bolt type puller.

I have not heard of replacing the cam shaft seal during this. Can the seal be replaced without removing the bearing caps?

technician doesnt care about that, they only care about if the seal leaks right now. but the seals are so cheap that you can buy them in bundle. so dont be a cheap-ass.

to cut the seal out, you a really sharp blade (home depot) and cut the inner rim of the seal and w/ a flat gently pop it out.

its best to rely on a haynes manual(chilton is not so good for this, i own both)...pay ~15 bucks for the book, instead of relyin on someone here, waiting for hrs or even days to get an answer.

if youre to look at the head on the picture, he doesnt have the cam shaft installed, but the shaft has a lobe that fits a wrench, so you can hold teh camshaft w/ a wrench while poping out the cam gear bolt.

[D0UG]

That is what I thought. Darn, I just replaced the valve cover gasket and distributor O-Ring seal a few months ago because it was leaking.

Thanks for the reply.

Originally posted by 88 LE
No.

To replace the cam seal you need to remove the valve cover, unbolt the camgear, backing plate, and bearing cap (the one (left side) at the end of the intake cam).

[mykngdom4avvti]

This job is pretty straight forward. Its just lining things up and being meticulous and patient thats the hard part.
Toyota makes a great tool for torqueing the crank bolt. It is a bar with two pegs at the end sticking out an inch or two. When the new belt is on and you have the crank sproket on you just put the tool into the holes on the sproket and torque the bolt to spec.
A good peice of advice is that you absolutly need to correctly torque the crank bolt!!!! I have seen guys hammer on it with an impact gun until it is way past correct spec. The keyway on the sprocket of toyota cranks doesn't tolerate this at all.

[Adam H]

Slightly off-topic here, anybody wanna explain to me what is involved in removing the spark plug tubes to replace the seals?