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After reading about it and feeling it out, I thought I would change my own sparks without pulling the intake on my V6.
I even did a dry run so I knew what I would need. Got my ducks and today decided to pull it. Started with the hardest plug, thinking it was the plug nearest driver position (Cylinder 6, I think). Did the hardest plug so I could back out if it got too messy. About 20 minutes managed to change it. Decided to go to the second hardest, middle cylinder and thats where life started to suck. I had been leaning over the car for about an hour now, back is killing me and I manage to get the plug cap off. Its tough because the damn things are so long. Well work the sparkplug tool in and am having the hardest part getting the wrench to sit. I thought it was because it was cocked or weirded but was getting nowhere. I then notice the plug cap was making a plastic sound as I was moving it around. That was not right. It had rubber casings right? Wrong...The rubber bottom end of the cap was still wedged on the plug. And since I was trying to get it out, I think I may have messed it up. I used some piano wire to try to make a hook but that thing would not give up. Three hours later, sun is going down, I have one headache. My back is shot, knuckles skinned and five new plugs in the cam. SOB.
Have you unsrewed the sparkplug yet? If not unscrew the sparkplug and pull the plug out. If still having trouble getting it out use the sparkplug wire boot. After unsrewing the plug push the sparkplug wire back onto the plug and pull the old one out.
you guys aren't understanding. there is something from the plug boot still on the spark plug which prevents him from getting the socket on it.
First off for future reference always twist the spark plug boot side to side (in a rotating motion) before pulling it off the plug. This breaks the seal more gradually. Once you can get it to turn (you can feel it break free) then pull it off. When reassembling, use dielectric tune-up grease to facilitate sliding/snapping them on and getting them off the next time.
I have some picks that might be able to work. also long nose pliers. Check out the tool section at the auto parts store or Lowe's. You have to find a way to get it dude. Try the picks that have an angle right before the point, and that are long enough to hook something. Same goes for some needle nosed pliers. They also make needle nosed pliers that have a right angle in the tongs.
Can you see if it's the actual metal cap of the boot that is stuck in there? (The metal part that actualy snaps on to the top of the spark plug) IF so pliers are going to be the way to go. Another thing you can think about getting is a mirror on the end of a thin handle that you can maneuver into place with a light so you can see down in there to see what you're working with.
Don't give up. This is a great learning experience.
Im still having trouble picturing what happened. Is there any way you can get a picture or 2 up? Take the hood off if you have too. Just get that plug.
__________________
96 Camry V6 LE & 90 Eagle Talon TSI (AWD TURBO)
"Love is all you need to know and all you need to know is love is all you need to know."
okay, there are two rubber parts on a sparkplug cap. The top with the wire and the bottom that holds cap on the plug's insulator.
What happened is when I removed the cap, the bottom rubber remained on the plug. I could not get the sparkplug tool over the rubber to remove the plug. If I don't get the rubber off, I won't be able to remove the plug. That is the situation.
The rear bank of cylinders are underneath the fuel injection plenums so I am working in very tight quarters and being a V6, the plugs are angled towards the rear. I am able to get only one hand in at a time. Left is the only one that can grip the plug cap. That is the location.
If I climbed on the injectors and peer through gaps, I can see the plug with a flashlight. Its down a long tube, my fingertips can't reach the plug. It's the diameter of your plug tool so nothing can get in there with much room.
But I did IT!!! Yeah!!! Only took me under an hour to change the other five and over five hours invested into this one mofo plug.
How I did it, I used steel wire to make some tools. all about 18" long. I cut one end of the wire at a slant to get a sharp point. The other end, I did same but used needle nose pliers to make a hook. Armed with this, I then proceeded to tear into the boot. First used the sharp tool to break the seal of the rubber on the plug, then used the hook to try snag it. Managed to get it out in 3 pieces. the last one being the complete bottom of the rubber ring. Best feeling all today. Changed the plug in five minutes, used a boot from one of the front plugs (easy to replace). Done.
That was one hell of a broken rubber experience.
I should have thought about the greasing the shaft, but what I did was use shoe glueon the boot to the cap in anticipation of the next change. Great hint though.
Also, don't let people discourage you when working on something. I heard 'You are screwed, better you than me' to 'you'll need to tear that whole head off now'. I never quit, but I do take breaks to think it through. More power to Camry owners.
Originally posted by amerikim But I did IT!!! Yeah!!!
Also, don't let people discourage you when working on something. I heard 'You are screwed, better you than me' to 'you'll need to tear that whole head off now'. I never quit, but I do take breaks to think it through. More power to Camry owners.
Yeah buddy! You have earned your stripes! I would work on a car with you any day.
your engine has only 3 coilpacks? what years did they start doing that i've seen them but i always figure it was so cheap i prefer the 6 coils instead they are easier to get out since the boot flexes.
personally... i find the easiest way is to undo the bolts on the torque strut, then the 4 nuts on the lower rear motor mount, then jack up the motor (so it leans toward the front). this way you get enough clearance to get your hands in there along with some tools...
I could be wrong though. i have never tried the unbolt the intake manifold method... ive only used this method cause i was working on installing new engines the 2 times ive changed the plugs
thats the number 5 btw...
the #1 is in the rear passenger side, the #6 is in the front drivers side.
i have to say this is one thing i like better about the accord v6. the plugs are ALL easy to get to. why did toyota have to hide them so deep on us!
Zoni_Camry
I did say Cylinder #6 as the hardest, but it was the middle (#5) that lost the rubber. Would def jack the car next time, but I live in a apartment where they dont even let you wash your car. Am looking into renting a bay to do my shocks, springs & swaybar.
Hmm, maybe time to check on those Brembo rotors.
And NOBODY sells those rubbers. Had to go to a junkyard.
In retrospect, now that I have figured it out, I can do all 6 plugs way fast now. Got the right tools and extensions.
aha,so it was the number 3 cylinder...my bad.
#5 is hardest, then #3, then #1.
Heard you did an engine transplant..you still 3MZFE or you move on? Auto to manual or ..? Thinking of making that a project and looking for some pointers.
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