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When I put my car into Reverse I can feel a shift and sometimes here a clunk. Had my wife engage reverse today while I watched and the back of the engine (next to the firewall) seems to lift up when she did.
Is this an engine mount or transmission mount I need to replace?
Engine mounts for sure. I just had my tranny rebuilt 1,000 miles ago. The mounts are brand new, and my car does the same. It's wearing engine mounts.
If your tranny mounts are bad? hmmm.... Tranny drops out? I don't think trannys should be a big problem. But if they are, it might affect your drivetrain in some way. I'm not sure though.
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check this guys solution out...he uses the polyurethane windshield gel on his mounts/bushings. It doesnt hurt to try and if anything, it will become better. Maybe the car will vibrate a bit because i have polyurethane bushings and it vibrates (especially with AC on). But it helped my launches and makes the car much more solid.
ummm Ratko is an admin here lol....and if u search a few other guys have done the polyurethane mod too....
also tt-cc is where TN pretty much shot off from ..... might want to touch up on your TN history mate
oh and to check which engine mount it is, try and shake the engine (while cold ) and see which mount is causing the least resistance, in my case my front engine mount is worn....if you have time then you can take it out and fill it with poly urethane and then let it dry for a few days before reinstallation, do search for more info as ive yet to do this mod...
Uhh, is there an upside to this? If you have to get down and take them out, have them out for several days while they dry, is it really cost effective? Does the 'window weld' method work well and does it last?
There are three mounts I think, dogbone, front and rear of engine.
My car is jerking in first to second and someone said I have a shot engine mount too. Not sure which one.
My engine was hitting hard too while switching into drive or reverse not too long ago. It was my torque engine mount (dogbone). The rubber insulator in the mount was gutted out from wear and tear. Its clearly visibile as soon as you pop the hood. Its between the passenger side strut mount and the valve cover.
$35 from Autozone...something like $15-20 on ebay. Easy DIY replacement.
Originally posted by KILLACAMNY My engine was hitting hard too while switching into drive or reverse not too long ago. It was my torque engine mount (dogbone). The rubber insulator in the mount was gutted out from wear and tear. Its clearly visibile as soon as you pop the hood. Its between the passenger side strut mount and the valve cover.
$35 from Autozone...something like $15-20 on ebay. Easy DIY replacement.
Sounds like that is the problem. I will check that dogbone tomorrow. I should have a jack under the engine with wood when I do this? Or will the other two hold it ok? I'm a bigtime DIY, just never done a mount before. Thanks.
Edit: Did you happen to have a torque spec for that too? Thank you.
Okay heres what my 92 V6 Stick shift does, say i'm in second and I let off the throttle, it jerks and since i have an exhaust system you can hear it, it litterally sounds like someone's cryin when i'm slowin down in gear. So which mount would it be?
In the 2000 V6 stick shift, it doesn't do that jerking, it slows down uniformly and evenly in any gear.
Originally posted by slcpunk Sounds like that is the problem. I will check that dogbone tomorrow. I should have a jack under the engine with wood when I do this? Or will the other two hold it ok? I'm a bigtime DIY, just never done a mount before. Thanks.
Edit: Did you happen to have a torque spec for that too? Thank you.
No, you dont need to support it with jackstands. I had to use to wrenches and remove the bracket. Being that the old mount is worn, they engine leans forward a bit. So while pulling on one nut, the engine leans back a bit and allows to squeeze in the other bolt. You'll see what I mean when you get into it, its hard to explain.
As for the torque settings, I just tightened until I couldnt tighten anymore. But if you really want the spec. torque setting, I have the Haynes manual and can check for you.
General INFO:
1. The dog Bone- Stops the motor from moving forward and backwards from driving torque, aka flooring it in drive or reverse.
Usually wears on the piece closest to the front of the car, not all the time though.
2. Front Lower Mount- Holds the motor down on the sub frame and stops the motor from moving up. Usually most noticeable in a thud thunking when letting off the gas at higher speeds. It is hydraulic and rubber. The rubber usually goes, rare occurrence that it leaks, if it does it will be the color of motor oil.
3. Rear Lower mount- Stops the motor from slamming back down from drive torque, and is the only mount stressed in reverse, so if your reverse feels laggy, that’s your pesty mount. As you can see it’s just the bushing you need to buy. If the main bolt through it has worn out the washer or cast mount will you need to buy the washer or the cast.
4. Transmission Mount- This mount takes torque in every possible situation, if you are feeling a thud at mostly all speeds mainly gears beyond 1st and usually second, real bad in over drive, that’s your mount.
5. The notorious Engine moving control Rod- This is a shock. Even with perfect mounts your motor will move some, mounts are only rubber. This piece makes the movement firm, when the motor moves, this shock will bring the motor back down soft.
This piece goes bad and when it does it will get real loose, unbolt it and if you can move it up and down easily, its shot, and YES IT DOES HAVE FLUID IN IT. Mostly mistake it for antifreeze as it is green; if this happens it’s obviously shot.
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