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Hello!
I am in the process of replacing the timing belt on my 85 Camry. The problem I'm encountering is getting the crankshaft pulley bolt to loosen. I've tried the repair manual recommendation of bracing the pulley with a large screwdriver and pry bar while applying force with a breaker bar. When I tried this the screwdriver bends and slips on the pry bar. I tried applying penetrating oil to the bolt head several times then tried again this time threading a bolt into the pulley hole. Again the same thing...the bolt bent and slipped on the pry bar.
I tried again with a snug fitting allen wrench in the pulley hole. When I applied force with the breaker bar the allen wrench broke...twice in a row.
I thought there might be a special tool I need to help me loosen and remove the pulley bolt so I called around to some auto parts stores but they didn't know of any such tool.
Are crankshaft pulley bolts always this tough to remove? There must be a kind of secret to cracking it loose. I'm sure a Toyota mechanic could tell me. Otherwise I could end up bending or breaking a whole bunch more tools.
impact is the way to go ! but my brother and me took it off another way ;X lol i dont recommend it but ill tell ya anyways ehehe. We got the breaker bar with the 19mm socket, put it on the bolt and wedged the breaker bar to the frame of the car.. then tapped the ignition without starting the car ! but yea ehehe, just use a impact gun.
The breaker bar wedged under the frame of the car worked for me when nothing else would, including an impact wrench. Just be careful!!! I would take the plug wires off to prevent the motor from starting.
Last edited by shackelton; 09-14-2004 at 07:48 AM.
the poor man solution, need 2 people, we've used the chain wrench, the one that can grab big pipes, wrapped around crank shaft pulley to hold it still, then use another wrench on crankshaft bolt, i was told need around 300 ft lbs to untie the bolt.
More specifically get the Ingersol Rand(IR) 1/2 inch air impact wrench, this is not a regular model, but a special high torque model with 600 lbs on the reverse and there is a newer (titannium) model with 1000 lbs on the reverse. The regular air impact wrench will not work for this job so don't even waste your time trying.
Chicago Pneumatic(CP) also makes a similar model with 700 lbs on reverse. You buy, rent or borrow one.
Oh...before I forget, on one stubborn job I even had to goto a 3/4 in air impact to get the sucker loose. The last guy must have used locktite on the bolt. So don't use that stuff. I just rented this one.
Just went through this last week. Bought a pair of strap wrenches from Harbor Freight. Used the large unit to hold the pulley while I used my torque wrench to loosen the Crankshaft bolt. Torque wrench clicked at 150 ft/lb but strap wrench held and bolt came free. Bolt torque on my engine (3S-FE) is 80 ft/lb. Found traces of thread sealant on threads. Best $3.00 investment I ever made.
Originally posted by mike787 More specifically get the Ingersol Rand(IR) 1/2 inch air impact wrench, this is not a regular model, but a special high torque model with 600 lbs on the reverse and there is a newer (titannium) model with 1000 lbs on the reverse.
I'll 2nd that. IR makes badass impact wrenches.
I have a IR231. Its a 1/2" drive air impact wrench.
I have yet to come across a bolt that it won't loosen.
Just went through this last week. Bought a pair of strap wrenches from Harbor Freight. Used the large unit to hold the pulley while I used my torque wrench to loosen the Crankshaft bolt. Torque wrench clicked at 150 ft/lb but strap wrench held and bolt came free. Bolt torque on my engine (3S-FE) is 80 ft/lb. Found traces of thread sealant on threads. Best $3.00 investment I ever made.
John K.
John you are going about the hard way next time try the Doctors way first!!
I once spent 4-5 hours in 100+ heat trying to get one loose. At one point I even chained the pulley to the frame so it couldnt turn and still couldnt get it loose. Also tried a cheap impact. Finally with enough beating on it, it came loose.
But after that I heard about the breaker bar on the frame (or ground) and bumping the starter.
I used that method the next time - no problems at all. Best idea ever However - I held the breaker bar while my helper bumped the starter - scary and possibly dangerous... but no risk of it cocking sideways and slipping off (possibly stripping the bolt head). I would use some straps and bungee cords or something if I was gonna try it alone
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82 Toyota Pickup, 22r, 5spd 4wd, Detroit locker, Warn 8274
1998 Toyota Camry - 5S-FE, Auto - 205k
82 Toyota pickup - 20r, 5spd, 4wd - SOLD
This is an ancient thread brought back from the dead with some really bad advice in it. There are very complete threads on how to remove the crankshaft bolt. Many are stickied.
In it there is valuable information on how to remove the crank bolt. DZ63 makes an over the top tool to do it, but many others have made less sophisticated ones from parts readily available.
But by far the easiest way is the Starter Bump method. Search the forums and you will find many threads on how to do it correctly. Here's what I did to make a home made tool to hold the bolt cranksaft pulley to tighten it. The tool can be used to loosen the bolt, but it isn't necessary. The easiest way to remove the bolt is to use the Starter Bump method. Don't be an idiot and try to hold the breaker bar as one person did. A link to the video is posted in the thread.
If you use a chain you risk damaging the crankshaft pulley. I'm guessing that people that use chain wrenches don't know that the crankshaft pulley is not one piece. In fact it is make out of two concentric rings separated by a thin strip of rubber. The purpose of the rubber is to isolate the engine vibrations from the pulley system. If you use a chain wrench to hold the outside ring, and attempt to loosen the crankshaft bolt, which is on the inside ring, you can easily break the rubber seal, and if that happens you are in deep grease. The pulley will wobble quite badly, it will slip, and very quickly the crankshaft pulley will destroy itself, and a new one costs $350-$375. So using a chain wrench sounds like a good idea, but now you know the risks of using one.
The torque specs to tighten the crankshaft bolt on the 4-cyl is 80 ft/lbs and on the 6-cyl it's 130 ft/lbs. I have no idea why there is such a big difference. Most impact wenches can do 80 ft/lbs so you really don't need any home made took to either tighten or loosen the bolt. You will, however need some sort of tool to hold the crank pulley to tighten the 6-cyl bolt to the 130 ft/lbs.
Some people with a 6-cyl have just put a little blue Locktite on the bolt, and tightened it with an impact wrench and have reported no problems. The crank pulley is tapered, and keyed, so it really can't go anywhere. I'm guessing that the engine rotation over time tends to tighten the bolt, but YMMV. If you want to be sure, then you will to fabricate some sort of tool to hold the crank pulley while you torque it to specs if you have a 6-cyl.
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