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Hello everyone how goes it? I am new here & was hoping to get a few things answered about my '90 Camry 4 Cylinder. Anyways, the car basically hesitates when you're driving around at any speed, you can feel it when you give it some gas, it like "sputters" or the power cuts for a milisecond and the power dips, but almost immediately catches back up. It kind of feels like the car is shaking, You can also feel this effect when it's in idle as well, i was told my timing belt was improperly installed causing this to happen, but i am not sure, what other things might cause this? Please help! Thanks,
Last edited by JohnChrist; 09-19-2004 at 09:10 PM.
Hmm, okay thanks for the help, it like "sputters" or "stutters" constantly, you can really feel it when driving or sitting in idle, it causes the car to shake a little bit. I also recently changed my spark plugs & 2 of them were soaked in oil (what does this mean?), could this be a factor in the way it's running? Thanks in advance!
Maybe your timing is off. If you timing is off, your car may feel really sluggish and idles really ruff like as if it's gonna die. If your spark plugs were soaked in oil, chesk your gasket. It may be old and worn out. If it is, it'll need some replacing. You might also have a bad O2 sensor, clogged throttle body, etc. It can be anything.
When did you get your t-belt changed? If it was just recently, then that might be the problem. If it was a while ago and there were no problem, most likely it's not the problem then. There can be many things that show the symptoms your car is showing.
Originally posted by joshthorsc Maybe your timing is off. If you timing is off, your car may feel really sluggish and idles really ruff like as if it's gonna die. If your spark plugs were soaked in oil, chesk your gasket. It may be old and worn out. If it is, it'll need some replacing. You might also have a bad O2 sensor, clogged throttle body, etc. It can be anything.
When did you get your t-belt changed? If it was just recently, then that might be the problem. If it was a while ago and there were no problem, most likely it's not the problem then. There can be many things that show the symptoms your car is showing.
My timing belt was replaced less than a month ago, the car has been running like this ever since, although it showed slight hints of hesitation before i got the timing belt replaced but it was not as bad as it is now. You can feel it when driving & it just makes the car accelerate slow & it can be best described as it is "Bogging" every time you accelerate or waiting in idle, the car shakes & what not, anyways thanks again in advance!
Can anyone reccomend any sure fire things that i could check within reason & ability to try & pinpoin the issue? I'd like to try & figure this out myself & take it into a shop if it's really needed.
Last edited by JohnChrist; 09-20-2004 at 03:03 AM.
Originally posted by JohnChrist I also recently changed my spark plugs & 2 of them were soaked in oil (what does this mean?), could this be a factor in the way it's running?
Originally posted by JohnChrist I believe it was the top, either way how difficult is it to replace the tube seals or the valve seals ? I'd appreciate the help!
The tube seals are easy to replace. Their underneath the nuts that hold down the valve cover.
You need a 30mm socket or a big cresent / adjustable wrench.
If your going to replace the tube seals, I'd also replace the valve cover gasket.
Valve seals are in the cylinder head. Its possible to replace them with the head still bolted to the block, but you need special tools to compress and reinstall the valve springs.
The other way to do it is remove the cylinder head and use a overhead valve spring compressor.
Originally posted by 88 LE The tube seals are easy to replace. Their underneath the nuts that hold down the valve cover.
You need a 30mm socket or a big cresent / adjustable wrench.
If your going to replace the tube seals, I'd also replace the valve cover gasket.
Valve seals are in the cylinder head. Its possible to replace them with the head still bolted to the block, but you need special tools to compress and reinstall the valve springs.
The other way to do it is remove the cylinder head and use a overhead valve spring compressor.
Thanks for the info! I appreciate it. Out of curiosity you have any idea how to use a timing gun/light? I have one & am not too familiar with it but i know how to use one, mine has 3 wires coming off it, it has a red clamp, a black clamp & this big black clamp that says "Plug" with an arrow pointing on it.
I tried using it the other day & nothing happened i could not get the timing gun to work, it made a faint chirping sound. I had the red clamp hooked to the positive terminal on the battery & the black clamp on the negative, then i clamped the Big Black one on the 1st Spark Plug cable. Any ideas? I'd really appreciate any info. It's an Nnova timing gun.
3. Short pins (use a paperclip or a little piece of wire with the ends stripped off) TE1 & E1 on the diagnostic connector.
The diagnostic connector is a little black box attached to the drivers side strut tower.
4. Point the timing light at the crank pulley and pull the trigger on the timing light.
The timing light will flash each time cylinder #1 fires. This is if you have it hooked up to cylinder #1, which you should.
You'll see a notch on the crank pulley line up to some number on the lower timing belt cover.
Stock setting is 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead center). If its off, you need to loosen up the 2 bolts on the distributor and turn it up or down till the timing is correct.
Make sure you check the timing after turning the distributor.
Thanks for the help everyone & 88 LE for your helpfull info as well bro. I've figured it out, it just needed a basic tuneup which i've failed to do, doh! I had to replace the the entire distributor, spark plugs, & plug wires. It runs like a champ now! Thanks again.
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