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I was wondering if anyone of you guys got camber kits. I've had a couple of friends who droped thier cars and are now suffering from camber. But then again they droped it extremely like 3-4 inches on a teggie and civic sedan.
Now my question would be if you guys droped you car about 2 inches would you need a camber kit to even out everything. I haven't heard much about camber kits on this forum, so i'm assume its already a given or most people don't notice the camber. Either that or it just prone to hondas/ acuras.
i had to get an alignment as soon as i got mine lowered, and the guy said it was off quite a bit. i havn't noticed an unsual wear pattern on my tires yet(been 8000 km about).
I installed the GC sleeves over Tokico on my friend's Gen1 Solara, and he needed the camber kit for the front only since he had uneven wear. The rear wasn't needed since it still sits high enough to not affect the tire wear.
Originally posted by Porkch0p220 i need a camber kit just becouse i got big rims i nodiced a change in the wear... anybody know were i can pick up a set for a 97 4cyl?
So I drop the car 1.5 to 2.0 inches and that increases the negative camber in the suspension. So I get the camber adjustment bolts to correct it back to factory specs.
Question???
Is the factory specs where I want to be?
Or will some small adjustments improve my handling at the cost of alittle tire wear.
We all strive for a car that will take a turn and stick, instead of pushing. If I wanted my car to stay planted in a turn (Yes! a rear sway bar is on my to do list), wouldn't a little more negative camber be good for the car? What about toe in? What about caster?
What would be the perfect compromise between a race setup and a street setup or the factory?
Or do I just take my car in for an alignment after I drop it, install the rear sway bar, rims and tires and say I want it to stick in the turns???
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Old School Wrench/ New School Ride My Camry Pic's
Genrally, toyota when dropping moderaltely (like everyone else stated) you really don't need one. However, sometimes you do need it. I have a friend w/ a 6 gen celi who needed it (on eibach proline). So its no rule of thumb...if you need it, it will be obvious!
I have a 5th Gen Celica and installed Eibach Prokit (1.5' drop) I thought I didn't need the camber bolts, 30.000 kms later and the rear tires showed something different.
I lost a perfectly good set of Toyo T1-S ( rotate my tires every 10.000kms religously) because I thought I didn't need them
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Luis C.
92 Celica GT-i (ST182)
2nd Gen 3S-GE
Caracas, Venezuela
Originally posted by Mikey21 So I drop the car 1.5 to 2.0 inches and that increases the negative camber in the suspension. So I get the camber adjustment bolts to correct it back to factory specs.
Question???
Is the factory specs where I want to be?
Or will some small adjustments improve my handling at the cost of alittle tire wear.
We all strive for a car that will take a turn and stick, instead of pushing. If I wanted my car to stay planted in a turn (Yes! a rear sway bar is on my to do list), wouldn't a little more negative camber be good for the car? What about toe in? What about caster?
What would be the perfect compromise between a race setup and a street setup or the factory?
Or do I just take my car in for an alignment after I drop it, install the rear sway bar, rims and tires and say I want it to stick in the turns???
Negative camber in the front will help the front end stick in turns, however it will decrease straight line speed and also wear the inside of the tires faster.
Toe (negative I believe) will help give you more responsive turn-in, but will make the car more touchy and harder to keep in a straight line.
I don't know the benefits of caster, or if it's even adjustable on a Camry.
The perfect street/track setup, IMO, is as Ufoz mentioned, camber plates. Put it at factory for street, then at the track dial in however much camber you want and have at it... then back to stock for the ride home.
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If torque actually won races, wouldn't we all be driving diesels?
I have ground control + tokico and used smaller bolts in the bottom of the front struts to adjust the camber. A smaller bolt allows the strut to move in and out thus giving you adjustable camber. The only problem is that it can easily get knocked out of alignment if you hit a hard bump. Im not sure if the aftermarket camber kits solve this problem or not but so far mine feels fine.
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