Best Brakes For The Buck? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

asscarracer · 10-11-2004, 10:15 PM

What are some good brakes that improve stopping distance yet dont cost an arm and a leg?

HoeBag · 10-11-2004, 11:00 PM

rotora and stoptech make awesome brakes

CamryPunk · 10-11-2004, 11:03 PM

^Cost an arm and a leg.

Get some cross drilled/slotted rotors and some nice pads.

You can get some Axxis or if you want to spend a bit more, Endless.

***cam2Xrunner*** · 10-12-2004, 02:26 AM

The brake caliper relocator kit with supra TT rotors will give you the best performance without spending upwards of 2k for a big brake kit. Here is ericsols for the gen 4 camry v6 and the solara v6
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...ight=big+brake
Gen3cruiser made some brackets for the gen3 v6
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...t=supra+rotors

If you don't want to do the big rotor upgrade then look into a set of brembo rotors and use some hawk or porterfield pads. Steel brake lines will also help a littel . And make sure to use some good brake fluid.

CamryPunk · 10-12-2004, 03:03 AM

Honestly, the main thing is get GOOD BRAKE PADS. Can't stress it enough. Those will make or break (no pun intended) your system.

www.endlessusa.com

xpeed · 10-14-2004, 08:08 PM

I'd go with Brembos, Endless, Project U, and Stoptechs.

Most expensive piece of Brembos I've seen was on a Viper. It was a 4-piston caliper with 16" crossed-drilled, rotors.

Price: $10,000

Toysrme · 10-14-2004, 08:51 PM

Brembro blank rotors, Hawk HPS in the front and Akebono ProACT in the rear.

dj14901 · 10-15-2004, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Toysrme
Brembro blank rotors, Hawk HPS in the front and Akebono ProACT in the rear.

I've also been impressed with the combintation of the OEM replacement Brembo rotors and Hawk HPS pads...

I've run them on two different cars with good results on both...

HTH-

DJ

kenny1773 · 10-15-2004, 11:48 AM

I have been through a few sets of pads on my Gen 3 and although I don't really 'race' I do drive hard every chance I get (as an example, Dunlog tires with a 50k mile rating only last about 25k for me)

I have used the stock rotors
I have used PowerStop crossdrilled only rotors
I have used PowerSlot slotted only rotors
I have used Raybestos PG Plus

I have used stock pads
I have used Axxis metal master pads
I have user EBC green stuff pads
I have used Akebono ProACT pads

The stock setup was the worst of all.

I will say that the Axxis pads had the hands down best fade resistance. The hotter this pad got, the better it stopped. The downside is that the first few minutes of cold weather driving they didn't work so well

They lasted about 55k miles. I owuld recommend them.

The EBC pads sucked ass all around, what a waste of money. Only lasted 8K miles and didn't stop all that well during that time.

The akebono pads seem nice all the way around. (these are what I am running right now). I would recommend them.

Now for the rotors.

I warped my stock ones in about 30K miles

The powerSTOP crossdrilled rotors did well. Nice stopping power, no noise, good heat recovery. I would recommend, but they are pricey. They lasted 60K miles.

the powerslot Slotted rotors, sucked. I would never buy them again. They warped in 20K miles and did not recover from heat as well as the drilled ones.

I really like the Raybestos PG Plus

http://www.raybestos.com/

I have these on now, so far they have not warped, they are quiet, they recover well from heat. The price is hard to beat.

I got the raybestos rotors and akebono pads from www.rockauto.com good service resonable shipping for heavy items and a fair price.

Toysrme · 10-15-2004, 12:01 PM

Quote:

The stock setup was the worst of all.

No the stock setup sucks when everything is worn out.
Akebono pads ARE the OEM pads

kenny1773 · 10-17-2004, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Toysrme
No the stock setup sucks when everything is worn out.
Akebono pads ARE the OEM pads

For some reason the stock pads had worse brake fade than the Akebono repacements.

Could it be that the stock rotors sucked and caused all the problems and I am blaming the pads?

SSC · 10-17-2004, 12:07 PM

Stock rotors (factory) will cause more brake fade then anything especially if there old and have been surfaced (turned) a few times. If you took a caliper out and measured the thickness most likely you would fine they are close to min and will not transfer heat well.

You could go the expensive route and get the cross drilled/slotted rotors but it’s an investment that doesn’t last long, if they warp you’re screwed. A nice replacement Raybestos rotor and Ceramic pad will give you reliability, stopping power and service life that makes more sense to me. The best part is your local auto parts store has all of these in stock.

Toysrme · 10-17-2004, 02:39 PM

Very nice SSC.

Drilled rotors have no reason for being other than "bling".
Slotted rotors are only good when you're creating so much heat, the front of the pads MELT and need to be scraped off. (Auto-X won't cause this)
Blank rotors have the best braking performance and fade resistance.

The more mass a rotor has the more heat it can absorb from the frictino of the pads gripping the rotor = less brake fade.

Unless some of you guys setup 10 min long Auto-X run, or actually have a road racing track (not back country roads) you really do run on. Noone has a reason for slotted rotors and drilled rotors are just silly holdovers from the 1970's.