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Background:
Every 10F you lower the engine bay temp, you will gain 1hp.
Theory
Cooling fins are ugly to some, hard to setup, and quite ineffecient at cooling. There must be a way that works better while being much easier to setup.
Instuctions
When you open the hood you notice that there is a rubber seal that goes along the back of the hood. By removing this heat will be able to escape the engine bay. To make this a really good mod, unbolt the hood from it's brackets and shim it up using washers. Don't worry about hood lineup with the front quareter panels. You can shim the hood a relatively far way before it won't line up.
***************************************** Background:
Antifreeze, depending on the formula, has a heat transfer capacity of 50% of normal water. Yes, for the uninformed antifreeze is fairly horrible at transferring heat.
Instuctions
A car that does not see a harsh winter should run a ratio of 30% antifreeze , 70% water, and whatever ratio Redline's Watter Wetter advises their additive to mixed with. Summer cars should use 25% Antifreeze.
You're really in luck if you can use Toyota's Red antifreeze. It has better rust inhibitors than green antifreeze. Just don't use it on Toyota engine's that don't call for it.
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Not that I'm attempting to pick on your posts we all need extra power.
It's cool. Good questions are nice to have. Welcome to the forums also.
See the intake mod. We're now taking part of our air from the engine bay. If it's 10F cooler in the engine bay, it will gain 1hp.
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
for anything, anytime; including camry turbos Now with Turbo!
Originally posted by userlain Dude I don't mean to be an asshole but the power increase from cold air is determined by the engine. THere isn't a universal formula for every car.
I don't agree. Colder air means the molecules are closer together. So when you have the mixture of gas and air ignited, there will be more air which means a more powerful ignite and more power.
This is a good mod for anyone really worried about underhood temps... But its not for anyone that worries about sucking engine bay air into the cabin. For what its worth, I am going to be doing this on my Camry, but I'd never do it on my WRX... Since my Camry has so much more under the hood producing heat that it did stock, I need to give it as much room to escape as possible... and I can always open the windows if I need fresh air.
-Charlie
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2003 Impreza WRX Wagon 5spd - 2.2L stroker + other goodies
1989 Camry Alltrac LE 3S-GTE 5spd - SV25/ST205 hybrid
1990 Camry 3S-GTE 5spd - parted out / junked
1990 Camry DX 3S-FE 5spd - The original white90dx; gone but not forgotten
I just flushed the rad and put in a gallon of green anti freeze and a bit water and it's already full. Should I dump some anti freeze out and put in more water instead?
I thought I can leave a thought for everyone else...haha!
As for the hood spacers and the rubber lining, I did that this passed summer.
Does keep the engine bay cooler, plus you can see leafs flying from under the bay.....hahaha..
As for the raining season, there have only been one day of rain here in central cali, but water
has not gotten into the engine bay*.
I prefer copper spacers found at OSH or other hardware stores rather than washers.
Just looks more pleasing to the eyes than washers all tighten together...lol
Background:
Every 10F you lower the engine bay temp, you will gain 1hp.
Theory
Cooling fins are ugly to some, hard to setup, and quite ineffecient at cooling. There must be a way that works better while being much easier to setup.
Instuctions
When you open the hood you notice that there is a rubber seal that goes along the back of the hood. By removing this heat will be able to escape the engine bay. To make this a really good mod, unbolt the hood from it's brackets and shim it up using washers. Don't worry about hood lineup with the front quareter panels. You can shim the hood a relatively far way before it won't line up.
***************************************** Background:
Antifreeze, depending on the formula, has a heat transfer capacity of 50% of normal water. Yes, for the uninformed antifreeze is fairly horrible at transferring heat.
Instuctions
A car that does not see a harsh winter should run a ratio of 30% antifreeze , 70% water, and whatever ratio Redline's Watter Wetter advises their additive to mixed with. Summer cars should use 25% Antifreeze.
You're really in luck if you can use Toyota's Red antifreeze. It has better rust inhibitors than green antifreeze. Just don't use it on Toyota engine's that don't call for it.
Most pointless mods I've ever seen. None of which will give you any horsepower.
First I think removing a piece of rubber that is supposed to keep out rain water from under the good will not change the intake air temperature significantly. Also, like others mentioned rain will get in the engine bay, and you'll get air from the engine bay going into the cabin.
If you're trying to lower intake temperature the second "mod" seems like a dumb way of trying to do it. Temperature will stay the same because it is actively controlled by the thermostat and the rest of the cooling system. The engineers who designed the engine made it so the cooling system maintains an optimum temperature.
Also, you have it backwards. Things with low heat capacity are great at transferring heat. Heat capacity is an ability to store heat. Water has a high heat capacity so it takes a long time to warm up and cool down. If antifreeze has a lower heat capacity it heats up and cools down faster. If I wanted to remove heat quickly I would use a substance of low heat capacity. So if I had pure antifreeze and water, I would use more antifreeze if I wanted to remove heat quickly. Although this makes no difference as the cooling system is designed to maintain a certain temperature. Also, I'm sure the chemists who formulated antifreeze made it efficient at transferring the proper amount of heat from the engine.
No ---- you're wrong. More water than coolant, as toysrme said, is more efficient for removing the heat in the engine. Maybe you're confused. Some people are confused when they think of these things. Especially with cooling systems, water pump RPM, flow, coolant, etc. Let me try to explain.
Specific heat of distilled water is pretty high, and it's cheap, so it is a great coolant for engines. It's 4.18 joules per kilogram per degree Celsius [or Kelvin]. Ethylene glycol is around half as efficient.
The phrase heat capacity is wrong to use here. It means something different than specific heat. Specific heat is energy to raise a certain mass of substance one degree in temperature. Heat capacity is basically ignorant of everything but how much heat is stored in an object -- like a small cup of very hot coffee has much less heat capacity than a full bathtub at room temperature.
The radiator removes heat from the coolant [distilled water mixed with ethylene glycol]. By being able to absorb heat while not getting too hot, the engine doesn't melt/vaporize and the coolant doesn't vaporize. The radiator removes the heat from the coolant, a lot of heat for only a few degrees -- the beauty of using the high specific heat substance called distilled water. Only problem is that the engine runs at temperatures close to boiling point, so water tends to evaporate a lot and/or boil. So the ethylene glycol raises the boiling point, while permitting sufficient heat transfer. Without sufficient heat transfer, the heat required to melt the engine would then raise the temperatures of the engine and then it would melt. We don't want that. We want the heat to transfer to something readily.... something that takes heat readily... hmm... oh yeah, distilled water will do the trick!
If you can achieve a more thoroughly and consistently cooled engine, the combustion chamber included, the timing can be advanced and the A/F leaned [part of the job of the fuel is to act as a coolant in the combustion chamber, so you don't need as much for that reason too if you can lean it if you have better cooling capacity], thus improving fuel economy. Or, for performance, increasing the timing and fuel to a higher more dangerous level can be achieved without the fear of hotspots / high temperature leading to detonation.
PS If still confused, I think I know why as you're not the first person! Perhaps this last little tip will help to keep in mind: the coolant is flowing always ...... the slightly-increased-in-temperature stuff leaves and the slightly-lowered-in-temperature stuff enters....
No ---- you're wrong. More water than coolant, as toysrme said, is more efficient for removing the heat in the engine. Maybe you're confused. Some people are confused when they think of these things. Especially with cooling systems, water pump RPM, flow, coolant, etc. Let me try to explain.
Specific heat of distilled water is pretty high, and it's cheap, so it is a great coolant for engines. It's 4.18 joules per kilogram per degree Celsius [or Kelvin]. Ethylene glycol is around half as efficient.
The phrase heat capacity is wrong to use here. It means something different than specific heat. Specific heat is energy to raise a certain mass of substance one degree in temperature. Heat capacity is basically ignorant of everything but how much heat is stored in an object -- like a small cup of very hot coffee has much less heat capacity than a full bathtub at room temperature.
The radiator removes heat from the coolant [distilled water mixed with ethylene glycol]. By being able to absorb heat while not getting too hot, the engine doesn't melt/vaporize and the coolant doesn't vaporize. The radiator removes the heat from the coolant, a lot of heat for only a few degrees -- the beauty of using the high specific heat substance called distilled water. Only problem is that the engine runs at temperatures close to boiling point, so water tends to evaporate a lot and/or boil. So the ethylene glycol raises the boiling point, while permitting sufficient heat transfer. Without sufficient heat transfer, the heat required to melt the engine would then raise the temperatures of the engine and then it would melt. We don't want that. We want the heat to transfer to something readily.... something that takes heat readily... hmm... oh yeah, distilled water will do the trick!
If you can achieve a more thoroughly and consistently cooled engine, the combustion chamber included, the timing can be advanced and the A/F leaned [part of the job of the fuel is to act as a coolant in the combustion chamber, so you don't need as much for that reason too if you can lean it if you have better cooling capacity], thus improving fuel economy. Or, for performance, increasing the timing and fuel to a higher more dangerous level can be achieved without the fear of hotspots / high temperature leading to detonation.
PS If still confused, I think I know why as you're not the first person! Perhaps this last little tip will help to keep in mind: the coolant is flowing always ...... the slightly-increased-in-temperature stuff leaves and the slightly-lowered-in-temperature stuff enters....
I hopefully helped
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I had done the hood spacer mod for awhile now and wondered if it is providing an escape route to the hot engine air and it does...
I recently installed a thermostat into my air intake pipe... (Injen SRI)
At start up, the air temp is equal to outside the engine bay.
Once warmed, the temp settles at 90 degrees F...currently
While cruising, the temp would try to decrease to equal the temp on the outside....but would rise up again at red lights.
But I know for sure that I am getting cooler air when possible with a SRI.
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The Free Mod series - Part IV Cooling
For what its worth, I am going to be doing this on my Camry, but I'd never do it on my WRX... Since my Camry has so much more under the hood producing heat that it did stock, I need to give it as much room to escape as possible... and I can always open the windows if I need fresh air. 
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