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both heads off, man that was a job i had to do it from above
cylinder #5 was filled with coolant, when i loosened the head bolts it started raining under my car
aaand heres why
that ladies and gents is why you shouldnt drive your car while its overheating, unless you are having a really bad night and its 1am and you are just a lil ways from home... you still shouldnt this wasnt the most fun ive had with my car but i may do a few things while the heads are off hehe
Just wondering...did you drop the engine out of the engine bay to get the rear heads off, or did you just rip it out while the engine was still in?
I've been trying to figure out what is the best way to get to the rear banks, to do anything that needs to be done waaaaaay back there.
btw, I know how it feels to blow the gasket. I don't ever wanna have that happen again...car spent almost 3 weeks in a shop while they "diagnosed" the problem
No, he asked me how to take the rear head out and i told him to get it out you unbolt the EGR pipe, and unbolt the manifold from the downpipe, because it's impossible to unbolt the manifold fro the rear head.
Just lift the rear head out with the manifold still attached to it.
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Toys man i told you i did it from the top, i didnt have a choice, it can be done but uhh, you kind of have to sit on top of the engine, took around 2 hours to get all 6 bolts off the rear head, its not easy since you cant see the bolts, and you need a deep socket to do this, but they broke free pretty easy, the two bolts connecting the manifold to the y pipe rounded off when i got under the car to try it so i dont think there ia any way i can ever get those manifolds off
Last edited by Luckynumber5; 10-24-2004 at 03:42 AM.
Na man, little more than a foot in extensions and you just get under the car and take out the two bolts from the down pipe. Then it's take the EGR pipe off, unclip the o2 sensor and unbolt the head bolts and take off the *extra* mounting bracket.
Easy easy. Yeah right! That one little mounting bracket on the side of a 3vz-fe is strong enough by itself to lift the front tires off the ground if you happen to jack the car up by the back of the rear head. I know I did it ROTFLMAO!!!
btw the easy way of lifting the rear head out is by putting a piece of wood, or a pipe onto a jack with the top going to the rear head and then jacking it out. I forgot to mention that part to you a few weeks ago LoL! Sorry man!
Dude is sucks you're rounded the bolts to the manifold off, it woulda been much easier for you if that hadn't happened. I would have taken a 1mm smaller socket and sledged the bastard onto the rouned nuts. Then you can take them off and maybe get them back on LoL!
I would highly recommend if anyone ever does that to shatter the socket afterwards. They have lifetime warrenties; just go to the store you got it and get a new free one.
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Make sure when you get yours back from being ported it's shiney like mine.
No fair LoL! Your parents will shell the big $$$ for your shop to go crazy with the porting! I guess we'll see if I can out-port your machine shop eh... heh. Makes me want to get a valve job done. Just don't forget aobut doing all that extra work I told you to ask them to do.
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Well the black stuff is carbon from when the fuel burns. Which is also what your exhaust manifold&pipes and what your intake looks like from the back side of your throttle body, down your intake and back into the engine.
The gunky stuff is just oil from when you take the heads off.
When you take a head off whatever coolant and oil didn't drain out will spill. Most of it goes straight into the cylinders in the rear bank because of the stupid angle Toyota put the engine at. You'd never see a blown gasket, RMS or valve cover on the rear bank if they would have found a way to mount it 3 inches lower so they didn't ahve to tilt the rear head backwards at an ungodly angle. (Oil pools like a bitch in some parts of the rear banks)
Then again that is a tall engine to stuff under a gen3 hood hah.
No biggie man, have them aim me and i'll tell them that reliable headwork normally costs $1500 so you're in the clear to port and polish all they want too.
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
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"The lamest twice banned, non-female member of-all time." -Ekam, Thanks, I <3 you too! AIM/Yahoo Toysrme257th
for anything, anytime; including camry turbos Now with Turbo!
really? everyone has told me that pushing a car a little bit by flooring it, getting it into high rpm's burned the carbon out of the engine.... how do yuo clean carbon out without taking the engine appart?
You can either burn it off by much higher than normal temperature. (Melt that piston baby yeah!) steam clean it, or use something that will dissolve it.
You can take a water spray bottle and start spraying water into the intake manifold. When the steam is created it will break up any carbon it comes into contact with very quickly.
You can use a cleaner like SeaFoam. You pour it very SLOWLY into a PCV type line that has vaccum and will suck it down the intake. 1/3 of a bottle at a time. Use 1 full bottle. Turn the car off & let it sit for 5 min. Crank it and check the huge blue ass cloud of smoke. Let the motor run until the smoke clears. Repeate until the bottle is empty.
You can also pour two cans in an empty gas tank and fill it up to clean injectors, pour a 1/2 can into your oil and the other 1/2 into your transmission fluid and drive it for 100miles then change it. (Flush the tranny) You could do the same with power steering fluid if you wanted. It's just ATF fluid. (but it must be flushed!)
Just a word of warning. Liquids, for all intensive purposes, can not be compressed. Pouring a liquid down the intake will hydrolock the motor and if that happens there is the possibility the rods, pins bearings ect can be trashed.
Personally I like the steam method. It doesn't cost $4 a can and need 4 cans to work.
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