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Old 11-03-2004, 02:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Having trouble reading diagnostics code!

Hi all!

My check engine light is on!

I drive an automatic shift '96 Camry LE, by the way. I tried inserting a paper clip between the TE1 and E1 terminals, but it wouldn't flash at all!

Maybe a problem is that I did this first while the engine was running, before I realized that I shouldn't, and shut off the engine, and then repeated the test just with the key on ignition but without the engine actually running............... and now I'm probably running on a sentence.

Anyway, does anyone know why it won't flash at all? Please help!
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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sorry... I found some tips here that I will try. I'll report back and let you all know if I still need help. Thanks for reading, though
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Old 11-03-2004, 03:07 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Your 96 Camry should be OBDII. I doubt you can pull the codes with the paper clip like the 95's and older cars. You need to take it some where that will plug in to the diagnostic connector under the dash and read the codes with the proper scanner. If you have Autozone in your area, they will do this for free.

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Old 11-03-2004, 06:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ugh. The Advance Auto guy was about to do it for me yesterday. But he couldn't find the plug. I took him to the right side of the front of the engine compartment, which is what he saw, and said it wasn't OBD II. I have to take him back to underneath the driver's side dash which is where there is another diagnostics plug. That's probably the one he was looking for. Damn the confusion!!!!!

I should be able to go there first thing tomorrow morn. and try to have the code pulled again.
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:45 AM   #5 (permalink)
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P0420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.

DAMMIT!!! I've been reading some of the causes of this error and one of them is water in the spark plugs. I did in fact hose down my entire engine about a month ago. What the hell was I thinking!?!?!? My mother had mentioned more than a couple times that the engine was dirty and I should wash it. She's done this herself a couple times so I figured it was okay.

Does this make sense that this error would come up weeks after I washed the engine? Would changing the spark plugs help? I was planning to do this, anyway, but since I've never done it before it'll probably take quite a while to complete seeing as I'll have to learn as I go.

The only tool I need to buy now is a spark plug socket. The Hayne's manual says it's necessary because of the insulation / padding inside it. Is this necessary?

Also, this is probably the dumbest Q you've ever seen. My car is a '96 4-cylinder 2.2 liter engine. Does it have four or six spark plugs? Four are obviously visible right away, I'm just hoping there aren't two more hiding behind hard to reach parts

Last edited by janeir36; 11-05-2004 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 11-05-2004, 01:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by janeir36
The only tool I need to buy now is a spark plug socket. The Hayne's manual says it's necessary because of the insulation / padding inside it. Is this necessary?
A sparkplug socket has a rubber insert inside of it that grips onto the sparkplug.

You need a 5/8" sparkplug socket, 6" 3/8" drive extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Quote:
Also, this is probably the dumbest Q you've ever seen. My car is a '96 4-cylinder 2.2 liter engine. Does it have four or six spark plugs?
4 sparkplugs.

Atleast you didn't say it was a V4.
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Old 11-05-2004, 02:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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lol okay thanks. I have the other two tools you mentioned. How about a small rubber hose to gently guide the spark plug thread into the cylinder? Also is it always necessary to use a torque wrench?
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Old 11-05-2004, 03:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just don't tighten the shit out of them. There's no need to crank on them, y'know? Just make them nice & snug, they'll be okay.
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Old 11-05-2004, 04:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by janeir36
How about a small rubber hose to gently guide the spark plug thread into the cylinder?
That'll work for installing the plugs, but you still need a sparkplug socket for removing the plugs.

If you just use a normal socket you'll be able to loosen the plug. However the plug will still be inside the sparkplug tube.

Do yourself a favor and buy a sparkplug socket.

Quote:
Also is it always necessary to use a torque wrench?
No.


P.S. Coat the threads on the sparkplug with anti-seize compound before installing them.
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Old 11-05-2004, 05:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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thanks movingviolation!

88 LE thank you for all the tips! I already went out and got the spark plug socket, I also needed a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter, the spark plugs themselves, and the gap checker thingie.

I was definitely going to get the spark plug socket for sure, I was just checking to see if I really needed the extra stuff to get the job done properly; to make sure I wouldn't be causing damage down the line by skipping essential tools.

The rubber hose I read about in my Hayne's manual to ensure that the threads on the spark plugs go in correctly. Since it's not a necessity, I won't be looking for it.

Thank you for your help again, I really appreciate it!

PS: The only spark plug sockets they had were 1/2" drive! So I had to buy the adaptor because I already have a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Last edited by janeir36; 11-05-2004 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 11-05-2004, 05:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by janeir36
The rubber hose I read about in my Hayne's manual to ensure that the threads on the spark plugs go in correctly. Since it's not a necessity, I won't be looking for it.
You don't need a rubber hose.

1. Use the sparkplug socket + extension.

2. Place the plug into the sparkplug socket.

The socket will hold the plug, so don't worry about it falling out.

3. Thread the plug into the hole by hand.

4. Place the ratchet on top, then tighten it down.


Gap on the plugs is .044"
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Old 11-06-2004, 06:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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lol... I have a thousand and one questions about a job that could be as easy as screwing in a nail

I'm thinking I'll get it done this morning. My last question is about using compressed air (from an air compressor, nonetheless, not a bicycle pump!) to blow out the dust before removing the plugs? This is what the Advance Auto guy said when I somewhat sarcastically asked if I needed anything else for the job.
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Old 11-06-2004, 01:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by janeir36
My last question is about using compressed air (from an air compressor, nonetheless, not a bicycle pump!) to blow out the dust before removing the plugs?
The plugs are covered up by the sparkplug wires.

So I don't see the need for the air compressor, but do it if you want to.
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Old 11-06-2004, 11:58 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Cool.

I had read some stuff about sand and particles getting on top of the plugs and the risk of that stuff falling into the cylinder when you take out the plugs.

So I bought a can of compressed air - $6.99 for a 10 oz can. Ouch. I'm very much looking forward to returning it if there's nothing there.

Either way, I'm set to do this early tomorrow morning. Will report back in a few hours!
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Old 11-07-2004, 12:57 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Done!

I was going to upload a picture of one of the old spark plugs but my cheapo camera cannot come into focus up close!

It basically looks like ... [described what a normal Denso plug looks like. Oh mY! I'm so clueless! ]

And oh, the plugs were a little wet. Water did in fact get in around those plugs!

For now I've pulled the EFI fuse. The CEL is off but I'll have to see if it comes back on. I also saw a procedure in my manual for testing the O2 sensor, I'll have to get on that shortly. The catalytic converter itself is another thing entirely.... But mostly I just hope the light doesn't come back on.

Last edited by janeir36; 11-08-2004 at 02:55 PM.
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