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Yo, this is embarassing, but I got a real noob question. I'm getting some drilled/slotted rotors for my 98 V6 and I'm thinking of putting them on myself. Do the old ones just pull off after I remove the calipers or what. No luck with the search and the haynes manual ain't have enough pics.
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no not really, there is normall a screw on the rotor itself. that you take off. maybe 2. i forgot but there after you just pull it off. I mean its very common sense thing.I didn't know either untill i looked at it myself. when you dont see anymore screws/lugs then pull it off.
this is on my 96 i4. but it should be the same for v6's
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96 Camry Le I-4
Last edited by bowlofturtle; 11-30-2004 at 08:27 PM.
Remember to release the parking brakes, or the rear rotors won't come off.
And while you're doing it you might as well install all new pads. I just installed Akebono ProACT ceramics with my new drilled slotted rotors. Brake Job.
Mike
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Really oooold and repost issue a million times over.
If they won't come off all rotors have tapped holes in them so that you can insert a bolt into the hole, and the bolt will push the rotor off. (sometimes breaking the rotor, so no turning back)
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should pull right off, if not GENTLE TAPS FROM BEHIND.
That's in an ideal situation...
Mine were seized on, used rust remover, WD40, those 2 screws that help pull it off...it ONLY finally came off after using a 3 foot crowbar and smashing it off. Even a hammer couldn't knock it off. Needless to say, the rotors broke off.
Yo, this is embarassing, but I got a real noob question. I'm getting some drilled/slotted rotors for my 98 V6 and I'm thinking of putting them on myself. Do the old ones just pull off after I remove the calipers or what. No luck with the search and the haynes manual ain't have enough pics.
1 it is never embarrassing to ask a question....unless it is where babies come from...lol. Usually, the rar rotors come off without a prob. The front's however are tough. Mine on my 92 (we did the job in 2000) took a sledgehammer, a few beers ( The other guy wasn't going to hold the steel shaft to knock the rotor off sober while I swung). I only hope yours goes bettr. Mine went alright, no probs with it, just a few vugalr words said at the time.
For the fronts, you have to remove the caliper first and hang it out of the way. I usually hang them on the springs using a bent coathanger cut and shaped in a big "U". The bolts are 14mm. Then remove the caliper mounting bracket (Toyota calls this a Torque Plate). Those 2 bolts will be 17mm. Now you can remove the rotor. If it doesn't come off with light tapping, then you will have to thread 2 bolts (sorry, I don't remember the thread size) into the 2 holes others have referred to in the old rotors. Lever them off as evenly as possible. You will hear a pop when it brakes loose. Clean the mounting area of rust and as someone above has said, apply antiseize compound just to the hub area that the rotor sits on. Be carefull not to get any of the antiseize compound on the rotor's braking surface. Put the rotor on. Install the caliper monting bracket and then the caliper assembly. It should take no more than 30 minutes a side if you don't encounter any unforeseen problems.
i dont know about you guys having problems on my 96. i took them off pretty easy with a slight tap here and there. I had no experience prior to that. Used a coat hanger to hold caliper. Knock off the rotor. got new one, cleaned it, slaped it on and off i go. of course new pads as well. no stuck calipers lucky me.
haha...WOOT for GB packers (still loving em') loved the mon. night football j/k, i'm guessing your question was in regard to what i said, GB = as in groupbuy for slotted drilled rotors BREMO at solaraguy.com
Group buy as in 10+ people come together and get discounted pricing (wholesale pricing at times), versus buying the rotors individually!
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