Well I've done it about 5 times in the last month. I'll cover it for you.
You need atleast a 3/8" wratchet W various extensions 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm and 19mm sockets. It's adviseable to have a 3/8 wratchet with extensions & 10mm-17mm sockets along with a 1/2" wratchet with long extensions and 14, 17, 19mm sockets. (A 1/2" wratchet will spin the crankshaft via it's pulley WITH the sparkplugs in. A 3/8" wratchet is maxing out your arm, and it's force spinning the motor with the sparkplugs OUT)
Air Wratchet/Impact driver, or a cordless impact driver is extremely useful and will cut an hour of wrenching out of the project atleast.
First take the battery out o the car. Yes... Out of the car. I'ma get nailed by someone for that, but if anyone else besides me has ever seen what happens to a battery when both terminals are bridged by a wrench, or other thick metal object... Yep. Was visiting a friend that dropped a wrench on a battery and boom. Acid flying with lil bits of shrapnel everywhere and a great big ball of plasma sitting inside the car. (It ate most of the metal battery holding tray away)
Just take the battery out...
Remove the windshield wiper, and coolant overflow tanks from the car.
If you can take the power steering resivor out without pulling the hoses, do it. I couldn't...
Take off the ALT and power steering drive belts. (You should change them now also. They're cheap...)
Remove the "Dogbone" mount from the engine (the entire thing). It's all 14mm It's the bar that connects the passanger wheel well to the top of the motor (actually the top of the block, you'll know it when you see it)
Remove the plastic upper timing belt cover. It's 8-10mm bolts.
Get the front of the car on jackstands and take the front-passanger wheel off.
There are 2 10mm bolts holding a cover on inside the wheel well. Take that off.
Take the sparkplugs out!!!!!!!!
(That can be next to impossible without taking the upper intake "Intake Air Chamer" off. A quick at-glace is unbolt the EGR pipe and bracket behind it, take the hose to the filter/MAF off, there are two coolant lines, one to the trottle body, one to the EGR thing to cool it down. Clamp or plug or something before you pull them! Pull the vacuum hoses, don't forget the banjo bolt for the cold-start injector. Take your gas cap off the tank and unbolt that one
slowly. Otherwise you'll get a face full of fuel @ like 20psi)
Set the engine to TDC on the #1 piston (LH bank, passanger most side AKA rear head passanger cylinder)You should be able to spin the motor with a 1/2" wratchet and a 19mm socket on the crankshaft pulley until the timing marks line up.
If you want to make sure the marks are OK; take a long 3/8" socket extension and drop it down the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the crankshaft until the piston stops going up, and you have TDC piston #1.
If TDC is off, be sure to MARK IT on the pulleys!!!
I'll be honest with you... Haynes book says you can take the crankshaft pulley off by hand, or by prying with two screwdrivers.
Oh no the hell you can't!!!!!! Go to autozone and rent a 3 jaw pulley puller, and swap it around into a 2 jaw one, and then you can pull the pulley off.
Take a 17mm socket and LOOSEN the camshaft pullies (make sure you don't stray from TDC)
Take a 14mm socket and remove the number 2 idler pulley(the one between the camshaft pullies)
Take a 12mm socket and unbolt the timing belt tensioner at the bottom of the engine
Unbolt the power steering pump holder (14mm) and all the other bolts that hold the lower timing belt cover on & take it off.
Fish the belt off... Fish the new belt on. That can be a real pain in the ass... They fastest way I found to do it was to reinstall the idler pulley, but not completely. Just thread the bolt in enough to hold it on OK, but enough so that the pulley will wobble. Start at the crankshaft and get as much tension as you can stand to the rear head pulley. Do the same for the front. With the belt all the way on the rear head, and 1/2 way on the idler pulley, the belt will slip on and off the front camshaft sproket without tons of force.
That's the questest way I've found.
Installation is pretty much the reverse of what you did. Just don't forget shit on the way back on. (Take notes if you have to. Just be sure they're more detailed than "The black bolt on the ass end of the intake".)
Linear Mode
