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I'm running a TRD 1.3 Radiator Cap. Just wanting to know the affect of changing from the standard 0.7. Is it good for the motor? My other one was had it, the seals where gone so this one was available at the time.
Regards
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
Higher perssure of the cooling system before it vents from boil over. Just like a pressure cooker, water boils at 100 degrees C at 1 atmosphere (101.32kpa) .
1 bar = 100kpa
at a pressure of 1.3 bar, water will not boil until it is about 130 degrees. (actual boil is the bubbling of water, changing from liquid to steam)
Now you have a Ethylene glycol and water mix, so check the concentration ratio chart and you can get the boil temperature. Usually is is given that a 15psi system pressure is used.
So the 19psi system will take more heat to boil the coolant, and the larger the temperature difference of the radiator and surrounding air, the faster heat is tranfered.
This also stresses the cooling system mechanically as it demands the seals/ hoses/connections etc. to hold that all in.
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2004 RX330 Sport
2003 Cam I4 XLE
2000 Cam XLE Gold Edition V6
1998 CamCE I4 Super Commuter!
Like a science lesson! Great thanku for your help.
My original cap when I got the car was 0.7 bar. I don't know if that is standard or not. (My manual says it, but Ill check it later). I bought this 1.3 bar one because it was just there at the time. So far, I only have one leak from, what I think is, my water pump. That was there before however. Everything else seems to be ok.
By increasing the amount of heat it takes to boil the coolant, does this mean that the engine runs better/cooler? Or is that a bad thing.
TRD made this cap, so I was under the impression that it was better than a standard cap.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
he doesnt have a 5sfe -_- the trd cap would be more performance orientated, so like... for engine that would probbaly have ebtter hoses n stuff
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
Will this cause any problems that I should be worried about? Anyone reckon I should put a normal pressure one in? Would the pressure difference btw this and my original cause and difference or wat not?
Thanks
(Thread Revival :P)
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
wouldnt the 1.3 give you better cooling? as long as none of the hoses fuck up...
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
No idea! Tis why im asking. I need a proper explanation on what the pressure difference does.
Alot of my hoses a good condition atm, ive replace alot, the only one being the bottom one and heater hoses that i havnt.
__________________ 1988 Toyota Camry 2VZ-FE E153
1972 Ford Mustang Sprint "F" 351C-2V 4SPD
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 "Q" 383C-4V FMX
raises the coolant boiling point, so itll overflow at a later time.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
gen 5 stock is 1.1 bar.......i've read a couple threads about this cap.....
someone said it won't be much use because the water doesn't usually boil? or something to that degree.
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-Custom 2.5in Cat-back Exhaust + Borla Muffler + Weapon R Dragon Intake + TRD Rear Sway Bar + TRD Springs + TRD Front Strut Brace
I have been using the 1.3 bar cap on my setup even longer than I have had the turbo and it has presented no problems. Even when my thermostat was stuck and I overheated, it still boiled over as normal and did not blow any hoses or seals. But do make sure your hoses are in good condition anyway. Because like Hajoca said:
This also stresses the cooling system mechanically as it demands the seals/ hoses/connections etc. to hold that all in.
This means that higher stress will expose weaknesses in the cooling system.
Seriously.... What benifit does increasing the pressure of the coolant give you? (directed mainly at 88LE since he is one of the few with real tech knowledge)
What benifit does it have that bypassing your thermostat wouldn't help? Even more so, what would it help on any engine that isn't fully built? Unless your overheating majorly, you don't need the increased coolant flow. Which could be more safely done by bypassiong the thermostat, and just keeping coolant constantly flowing?
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'88 Toyota MR2 N/A - Sold
'99 Miata Sport - Sold
'85 Corolla GT-S - Sold
'02 MR2 Spyder - C-Stock car
Seriously.... What benifit does increasing the pressure of the coolant give you? (directed mainly at 88LE since he is one of the few with real tech knowledge)
What benifit does it have that bypassing your thermostat wouldn't help? Even more so, what would it help on any engine that isn't fully built? Unless your overheating majorly, you don't need the increased coolant flow. Which could be more safely done by bypassiong the thermostat, and just keeping coolant constantly flowing?
I can only answer this one from my point of view and benefits for my setup. Obviously increased coolant flow equals better heat transfer. This aids me specifically because of the increased heat of the turbocharger. You can as you say remover the thermostat, but I like to keep the thermostat there to warm up the engine on cold starts personally.
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