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I just got a ebay strut tower bar for $20 (ill never do that again) it was missing a bolt... but getin to the point... i need to as a few noobish questions about the instalation.
can i just unbolt those 6 bolts and put it on or do a need to jack up the car? i dont want to unbolt them and have crap start falling apart
and wat are the torque specs on those bolts?
thanks for the help
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>93 camry Le 5s-Fe
Custom Magnaflow Dual Tip cat-back
>86 Celica GT-S (3S-GTE on the way)
make sure the strut itself is proerly aligned b4hand.. car on level ground, adjust teh strut so it fits, then fit it..tehres no point fitting a strut bar if its already warping the chassis.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
An alum bar is an alum bar however much they wanna charge you
Unless it 3 point, bolt to firewall also, they all the same. They can make the bar thicker to be stiffer other then that, its all the same.
They do work. Make sure you extend the bar as much as possible when you put it on. I 'll jack front wheel off so there is no load on the chassis. This way I can extend the bar a bit more and add preload to it when wheel is on the ground and pushing chassis up.
An alum bar is an alum bar however much they wanna charge you
Unless it 3 point, bolt to firewall also, they all the same. They can make the bar thicker to be stiffer other then that, its all the same.
They do work. Make sure you extend the bar as much as possible when you put it on. I 'll jack front wheel off so there is no load on the chassis. This way I can extend the bar a bit more and add preload to it when wheel is on the ground and pushing chassis up.
you do not want any preload on the bar at all... preload is just chassis bending that shouldnt be happening. you should do it with the car just sitting on flat ground (this would be your own cars netural position) and adjust hte bar to match. no point making the bar bend your chassis b4 its even in a corner.
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125 front wheel horsepower with major retard issues between 4500-5200RPM -
OD switched off, even when not in 3rd results in major power loss/rpm drop.
i think its 59 lbs of torque tooo.. You don't need to ramp up your car or anything. Just unbolt take place the bar, put all screws (don't tighten em all yet - i remember i tightened one side and went to work on other and realised the holes were not aligned..DOH). hence, just make sure all screws are aligned with the holes and tighten away! I hardly felt a difference on my camry (its got a trd front strut bar).
you do not want any preload on the bar at all... preload is just chassis bending that shouldnt be happening. you should do it with the car just sitting on flat ground (this would be your own cars netural position) and adjust hte bar to match. no point making the bar bend your chassis b4 its even in a corner.
I don't think you can put enough preload to bend the chassis at all. Its just to make sure no slick and flex before you hit the corner and load the chassis. The bar will be more effictive with min flexing in chassis. The bar is suppose to push both sturt down to prevent flexing. With a bit preload, the sturt won't move up as much. Steering respond will be better and chasis stiffer.
Then its all only theory. It's hard to tell how much better it is and if it acturally improve with preload I only install it that way when I have time
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