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I already searched but there are no how to's for draining/refilling power steering fluid for my 97 camry le. I looked at the reservoir and there are hoses attached to them. Do I just remove those hose fittings and drain it by pouring the fluid out from the reservoir? How do I get the fluid out from the system itself? And how about bleeding the system? Thanks.
The best and easiest way I have found is by simply removing the hoses (place a towel underneath to catch the mess) and pull out the resevoir. Reinstall all and refill resevoir half full. Start engine and then slowly add fluid. The power steering pump will make a growling noise due to the air, but that's normal. Slowly add more fluid , stop, add more until the system purges itself of the trapped air. It helps if you turn the steering wheel fully left and right a couple of times. Stop filling before totally full. Drive around the block making lots of turns, then top off. This doesn't drain all the fluid but if you do this once a year, especailly since it is so easy, your power steering system will last as long as you own the car. To completely drain all fluid will take a considerably more amount of time and effort. Good luck.
Thanks murocflyer that was quite informative. When the system is purging itself of the air, will I see bubbles in the fluid? And should this be done when it's hot or cold, since there are hot/cold max/min marks indicated on the reservoir? Just out of curiousity, what does it take/involve to drain all the fluid from the system? How many bottles of power steering fluid would I need just to change it once? Thanks again.
Or try this: With the car off of course, use a suction device of your choosing to remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoir. Then disconnect the hose that returns fluid to the reservoir (with a towel underneath to catch the mess of fluid you could not suck out). Plug the IN hose port with something that will stay in place briefly (use tape to secure if necessary). place return hose into empty milk jug or similar recepticle (you may need to clamp on some tubing to direct the flow where you want it). Then refill the reservoir. With another person at the controls and you at the reservoir with an open and ready bottle of fresh fluid, tell your assistant to start the car. Pour fluid into the reservoir as the pump draws it out. Have assistant turn wheel from lock to lock several times while doing this. Keep on until fresh fluid starts flowing into the jug and you've cycled the wheel several times. Turn car off, remove plug from reservoir, QUICKLY reattach the return hose and clamp, then top off reservoir. This procedure will get you an almost 100% fluid change and no cavitation trauma to the pump from air ingestion (unless you don't pour fresh fluid in fast enough). One enhancement: if you have any lineoleum tile or similar stuff, put two-layer sandwiches of it under each front wheel at the outset. They will significantly reduce friction and stress on the rack, pump, etc as you do the wheel turning.
Well that certainly is an interesting method. I never thought of that. I just might try that this spring during my annual fluid swap. Two each trash bags work well also if you aren't lucky enough to have 4 squares of linoleum lying around.
As to the question about how much fluid, I would say a quart should surely be enough to completely drain and fill the system. I do not know the exact quantities.
Also, while you are at it. Don't forget to completely bleed the old brake fluid and repalce with new. An often neglected, but necessary task.
Plug the IN hose port with something that will stay in place briefly (use tape to secure if necessary). place return hose into empty milk jug or similar recepticle (you may need to clamp on some tubing to direct the flow where you want it). Then refill the reservoir....... Turn car off, remove plug from reservoir, QUICKLY reattach the return hose and clamp, then top off reservoir. This procedure will get you an almost 100% fluid change and no cavitation trauma to the pump from air ingestion (unless you don't pour fresh fluid in fast enough).
I'm a little lost there...so am I supposed to disconnect both hoses and then find something to plug into the IN hose port (I don't know which one is the IN port, the one on top or bottom?). And when you say turn car off and remove plug from reservoir, quickly reattach the return hose and clamp, why does it need to be done quickly? Please explain thanks.
I'm a little lost there...so am I supposed to disconnect both hoses and then find something to plug into the IN hose port (I don't know which one is the IN port, the one on top or bottom?). And when you say turn car off and remove plug from reservoir, quickly reattach the return hose and clamp, why does it need to be done quickly? Please explain thanks.
I'm sorry if I was unclear. Sometimes it's a little harder to describe a procedure than it is to do it. . .
DO NOT disconnect both hoses. ONLY disconnect the hose that RETURNS fluid to the reservoir. That's the one that needs to be placed in some sort of catch bottle, preferrably one that is clear so you can see the color/quality of the fluid as it emerges. If yours is too short, stiff, or both, add a segment to it so it will reach the catch bottle. The hose that takes fluid down to the pump and into the system REMAINS CONNECTED TO THE RESERVOIR at all times.
The port you plug* is the one in the reservoir to which the return line had been attached, before you detached it. In most cars, it's on or near the bottom of the reservoir. That's why you suction the reservior before doing this. It's also why you put a temporary plug in it before performing the fluid exchange procedure, or you'd spill fresh fluid everywhere.
Have I cleared up what I meant? If not, just let me know.
EDIT -- * what you plug it with depends upon the size of your port and the materials you have at hand. Ideal would be something like a cork of the size needed. Just find or fashion something that will keep fluid from gushing out (a few drip drops are OK) and won't introduce contamination into the system.
Oh yeah, once you've finished up, and are returning the system to operating configuration, you have to remove the plug from the IN PORT of the reservoir and re-attach the return hose to the IN PORT. You should do this QUICKLY because from the time you remove the plug until you re-secure the hose, fresh fluid will be flowing from the reservoir on to the towel that (I hope) you had in place underneath it.
Okay thanks ekpolk I was confused before because I didn't know the return hose is the bottom hose. I thought of it as the same as a radiator return hose, which is on top.
Also, if you suction the reservoir before starting, wouldn't that introduce air into the OUT/SYSTEM port? Or would it be okay since you're pouring fluid into the reservoir before turning on the car.
And do you know approx. how many steering wheel lock turns it will take before fresh fluid starts showing up? If I don't turn the steering wheel, the fluid isn't going to move right? If the faster I turn the wheel, will that cause the fluid to move faster as well? So can I turn the wheel slowly? When I turn off the car, will I still be needing to add fluid to the reservoir before the return hose is attached?
Just to have some reference so I know how long it's supposed to take. The only other fluids I have changed on a car is oil so I hope this isn't a bigger task because it doesn't sound hard to do. Thanks ek.
How to drain/flush/refill automatic transmission fluid?
Well I'm swapping all the fluids on the very much neglected camry this year for my pops and so far I feel pretty confident doing a power steering flush with all the info ekpolk and murocflyer have given me. So I just need to know how to do tranny, brake, and coolant fluid flush. But this thread will be about the tranny service. I searched already but most of the instructions were for a manual transmission, where there is a drain and a fill bolt near each other underneath the tranny.
So the only thing I know so far from searching is that automatic transmissions are filled from the dipstick hole. How do I drain all the fluid and possible flush it myself without bringing it to a shop? Or is it better to have a shop use a machine to flush out all the old fluid and replace with new fluid? I know a toyota dealership near me will charge $50 to drain/refill and adjust transmission linkage (if needed). Will I need to buy and replace the auto tranny filter and gasket and how would that be done? I hope this thread can help others who wish to do this procedure themselves as well. Thanks in advance.
Different models have different hoses. As I recall from my Camry, BOTH hoses were on the bottom, though the return hose came in horizontally. I sold my Camry about five months ago and now have a G35, so I don't have a Toyota product to look at (my wife's Sequoia is at home 200 miles away) to be sure, but on the G, both definitely come in on the bottom, and both vertically from below. If you're not sure which hose is which then I strongly recommend looking it up in a reference before you try this. As I recall, a one-day use of www.techinfo.toyota.com is only $10. You can download and save a bunch of good stuff in one day .
Yeh, I know a haynes manual would be a wise investment but I am not planning to keep the car for more than a year so I just need some general info. about the procedure.
What a coincidence my dad bought himself a G35 back in Feb 04. What package did you get and year? His is loaded except for navi and front chin spoiler. Wish he had gotten the 6spd tho but he couldn't handle teh stick . As for the link, it doesn't work so if you have the time please post it up again. Thanks.
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How to drain/flush/refill automatic transmission fluid?
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. As for the link, it doesn't work so if you have the time please post it up again. Thanks.
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