Better heat 4 cyl - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Davee · 12-22-2004, 06:57 PM

I am slowly working on a low heater output problem. I changed the Thermostat for hi heat version but saw little difference in where gauge got to ( less than 1/2 of full scale?). Now think it is leaking through when "closed" as the upper hose starts to warm up after about 1 minute of running -- Too soon? - Temperature gauge is not off the bottom peg at this time Cardboard in rad required to keep temperature up at outside temperatures of -18C. Any of this sound familiar?
I will be installing a remote starter after Xmas which will give me chance to see that water supply valve to heater is stroking full open and air gates are working right. Maybe I am expecting too much but the old 4 cyl Volvo was much better. Comments appreciated
Davee

Lumberg · 12-22-2004, 07:04 PM

Is the radiator itself getting hot after a minute? heat can be conducted to the upper hose near the engine.

Is water is truly flwoing thru the rad then yah you need a new T-stat.

Davee · 12-23-2004, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lumberg

Is the radiator itself getting hot after a minute? heat can be conducted to the upper hose near the engine. THE ENTRY POINT OF THE TOP HOSE STARTS TO GET WARM & SPREADS ACROSS THE TOP OF THE RAD WITHIN A MINUTE & GAUGE HAS NOT BUDGED OFF BOTTOM

Is water is truly flwoing thru the rad then yah you need a new T-stat.

I KNOW THERE IS SOME FLOW -- T/S HAS A SMALL BLEED HOLE -- TO REMOVE AIR ? THE REAL QUESTION IS HOW MUCH IS FLOWING WHEN THE T/S IS SUPPOSED TO BE CLOSED & IS THIS A NORMAL MINIMUM FLOW? -27c TODAY!! A GOOD TEST DAY

Davee · 12-23-2004, 04:14 PM

Now 95% sure the T/S is leaking as the temperature dropped as I slowed from highway to town speed. This was after almost getting to std temperature with cardboard in rad covering about 80%.
Ordered the 192 degree & may get it to morrow . Will keep all posted

Davee · 12-27-2004, 08:53 AM

I did another test today . Used a clamp to cut off "leakage" to rad by clmping the top hose.
Warm up was much faster even though there was some coolant flow. Before gauge got to temperature I released the clamp & the rad went quite hot -- SO LEAKAGE PROVEN! Picking up the new T/S today

Lumberg · 12-27-2004, 04:12 PM

Good for you, T-stat is definitely allowing flow

(Many T-stats these days are designed to fail in the "open" position as the other alternative has much worse consequences.

Davee · 01-07-2005, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davee

I did another test today . Used a clamp to cut off "leakage" to rad by clmping the top hose.
Warm up was much faster even though there was some coolant flow. Before gauge got to temperature I released the clamp & the rad went quite hot -- SO LEAKAGE PROVEN! Picking up the new T/S today

Finally got a day warm enough (-5C) to change the T/S. The new one is defininetly better at holding back initial flow . So this was the major problem

BTW --Be careful if doing the change -- Seat the new T/s in the hose /housing or it may fall & cut the gasket as you tighten. Feel all round to ensure the gasket is inside before tightening.

Lumberg · 01-07-2005, 03:46 PM

Glad it worked out.

vsixcamry · 01-07-2005, 07:38 PM

i once heard of a method in which carboard is placed in front of the radiator... not sure if its completely safe... but ill find out more.

Davee · 01-08-2005, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vsixcamry

i once heard of a method in which carboard is placed in front of the radiator... not sure if its completely safe... but ill find out more.

I use this as well as having a good T/S. Main effect is to keep heat in longer after shutdown. The trick is to leave just enough rad exposed that on warmer days no overheating. At our really cold temperatures this amounts to about 10% uncovered 12 " pizza boxes work really well!

cdlubbe · 01-08-2005, 03:47 PM

Hello:I am new to this forum.
I hope you do not mind me posting here.
I have a 1998 Camry LE with the 4 cylinder that I recently bought.It has 99,000 miles on it.not sure if the heat that it puts out is normal?
When driving at normal speeds,the heat seems fine,but when idling,it does not put out the real warm heat.If you rev the engine up,it starts putting out the high heat.Not sure if this is normal for a small 4 cylinder engine?
Could a thermostat do this?I think it has the original coolant in it,but not sure?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards....Chuck Lubbe
Silvis,Illinois
USA

virtualkuz · 01-08-2005, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdlubbe

Hello:I am new to this forum.
I hope you do not mind me posting here.
I have a 1998 Camry LE with the 4 cylinder that I recently bought.It has 99,000 miles on it.not sure if the heat that it puts out is normal?
When driving at normal speeds,the heat seems fine,but when idling,it does not put out the real warm heat.If you rev the engine up,it starts putting out the high heat.Not sure if this is normal for a small 4 cylinder engine?
Could a thermostat do this?I think it has the original coolant in it,but not sure?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards....Chuck Lubbe
Silvis,Illinois
USA

That is a very strange problem. The only thing I can think of is that your electric radiator fan is staying on all the time. You could also have a bad thermostat, but that doesn't seem like the problem. Another thing, you could have a partially cloged heater core. The core may only get decent flow when your car is going at speed and hence the waterpump is spinning faster and producing more pressure.

Davee · 01-08-2005, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdlubbe

Hello:I am new to this forum.
I hope you do not mind me posting here.
I have a 1998 Camry LE with the 4 cylinder that I recently bought.It has 99,000 miles on it.not sure if the heat that it puts out is normal?
When driving at normal speeds,the heat seems fine,but when idling,it does not put out the real warm heat.If you rev the engine up,it starts putting out the high heat.Not sure if this is normal for a small 4 cylinder engine?
Could a thermostat do this?I think it has the original coolant in it,but not sure?
Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Best Regards....Chuck Lubbe
Silvis,Illinois
USA

I have always been disappointed with the heat output of the 4
Virtualkuz has a good line on possible problems
I offer another possibility -- Does fan slow down when you idle -- could be poor voltage regulating--might also effect the heater/rad switching valve where the hoses come out of the block
In real cold I find satisfactory heat at idle but worse as the wind blows over rad at speed particularly if the T/S is leaking through . It needs to be only cracked open to get all the cooling done

Davee · 01-23-2005, 06:32 PM

With some variation in our weather I have concluded that even with new T/S , the engine cannot come up to normal temperature even with the rad covered 95% when the outside temperature drops below about - 25C. There is enough air turbulence over the block to do all the cooling if the heater is also on. Is this a common situation?? Maybe my heater is partially restricted