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Old 12-26-2004, 05:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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How much work am I in for?

After not having heat so far this winter, I'm going to replace the heater valve because the little plastic on it is broken off. I decided to bite the bullet after sitting in the car for 7 hours at work with no heat in the Chicago cold spell that we recently had.

I also have a coolant leak and it appears to be the lower radiator hose. I was told that a leak will also give me heat problems because the system can't contain any pressure by having a leak.

I'm going to replace the heater valve and the lower hose tomorrow. How much work am I in for?

I figure that with the radiator hose, I just have to drain the coolant out and replace the hose. But I've never messed with the heater valve before. Any suggestions?
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Old 12-26-2004, 05:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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couldn't tell yah for the valve, but you might as well replace both hoses and the thermostat while you're in there with the coolant. If yah get a chance, I'd do a flush. Playing with coolant isn't a fun thing, might as well make it worth your while.
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Old 12-26-2004, 05:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Where is the thermostat located at?

I just did a coolant flush over the summer so I just want to replace what is broken. The upper hose still looks very good.

The lower hose was leaking right where the clamp is. The clamp is all rusted up.
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Old 12-26-2004, 05:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thermostat (at least on my 5s) is located at the end of your bottom rad hose, you have to disconnect the metal piece and it sits right in there. if you want, I'll check in my haynes for the location on a 1MZ.
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Old 12-27-2004, 01:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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^ isn't it like a 2 dollar part, i'd replace it!
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Old 12-27-2004, 11:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felkajamine
^ isn't it like a 2 dollar part, i'd replace it!
yeah, the most expensive thermostat you can really get is like $10.
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Old 12-27-2004, 12:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thermostat:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013e98f.jsp


Heater valve:




1. Remove the 2 hoses.

2. Unhook the metal linkage.

3. Unbolt valve from firewall.
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Old 12-27-2004, 05:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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excellent pic 88, btw i havent seen you around in a while...
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I did the work today and got it done. It wasn't too bad. The only difficult thing was the hose going into the firewall was a bitch to get off. In fact, I couldn't get it off so I just cut it. I went down to Pep Boys and just bought a new hose.

But it works fine and I actually have heat. But as damned as I am, something else went wrong and the driver side door won't close now.
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Old 12-28-2004, 06:31 AM   #10 (permalink)
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had the same problem with my wifes car, only on the passenger side. If you take the latch out theres a small cover plate on it. Under that plate is a small spring that was broken. The spring basically holds the latch shut when you close the door. I took the broken one down to ACE hardware and mached it up with a new one. The dealer wanted over 150 for a new door latch, junkyard wanted $80. I paid something like 40 cents and it still works fine. Dont know if thats your problem but just thought id share. Of course its a pain in the ass to get the latch out of there.
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Old 01-05-2005, 06:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88 LE
Thermostat:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8013e98f.jsp


Heater valve:




1. Remove the 2 hoses.

2. Unhook the metal linkage.

3. Unbolt valve from firewall.
What year is this pic of. Our camry has very little heat too, gotta do something about it. May do this too. Oh and what's this about pressure. I'm not fimiliar with coolent having pressure. If I don't have pressure how do I get it/fix it.
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Last edited by ricqik; 01-05-2005 at 06:06 PM.
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