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Old 01-16-2005, 06:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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help with installing driver side axle

Hey, just got through using the search button of course, and I can't find what I'm looking for...thought someone may be able to help me. My 93 Camry 2.2 L is sitting in the garage right now with out a driver side axle. I was able to remove it today, but now that I"m trying to install the new axle I can't seem to get it all the way in. I'm sure it's the snap ring blocking me from going any further. I tried to align it in with the groves so that at least when I turn the driver side, the pasenger side will also turn, then took a pry bar and a hammer and tried to tap it in there at the transmission but no luck. I thought I remembered seeing a DIY on this before, but I can't find it. Otherwise if anyone has got any advice I'm more then open to taking it! It's fairly urgent so if you can please respond quickly I'd greatly appreciate it!

Alan
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Old 01-16-2005, 06:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If the passenger side turns, the splines are engaged. I think the trick with the snap ring is to apply pressure so that the snap ring starts to compress before you use the prybar/hammer to tap the axle in. If you don't hold pressure on it, the snap ring works against the hammer tap. Sort of takes two hands to apply pressure, hold the bar and make the hammer strike. Sounds like you're very close.
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Old 01-16-2005, 06:45 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yea, that's pretty much where I stand right now....I've been tapping it and reworking it for the past 2 hours and no such luck. It is so loosely in there that if I tap to hard it pop's the joint out. I assume the snap ring must be in place or else it will screw the tranny and joints up. Best I have been able to do so far is just position it, and then try to beat at it for a few but it just doesn't want to seem to go in. I think the ring is to far uncompressed and catching, so I'm thinking of removing it and compressing it, then just trying to slide it over the bar again.

Also, where is the best place to strike at the joint? Right now i've placed the pry bar along the groves of the joint housing where it connect's with the tranny and striking it there. Is there a better place to strike?

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Old 01-16-2005, 07:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Dunno

The tulip joint housing (inner CV joint) has a ridge on it, use that, for the flat of screwdriver (or prybar) to rest on, then strike the screwdriver (or pry bar). You can hold pressure on the snapring by pushing on the screwdriver (or prybar). You might be better off using a small sledge hammer, instead of a hammer. You're not taking a huge swing, but your tapping action must generate enough impact/momentum to compress the snap ring. Once it goes, the snap ring will seat/locate easily.

The tulip joint housing has three places (ridges) suitable for tapping, if you aren't getting anywhere with the present one, spin the axle without disengaging the splines, and use the next ridge, that might help.
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Old 01-16-2005, 07:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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hold the axle as straight as possible, there should be a shoulder where the nut goes on, apply pressure as said before and give that a good solid hit.
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Old 01-16-2005, 10:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yeah, one good whap and you'll have it.
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:07 AM   #8 (permalink)
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LOL, just got bored and tried to post a picture, it worked.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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When I was installing my passenger side one that damn snap ring was a pain. Took me forever to get that thing in.
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Old 01-17-2005, 08:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I like this instruction! 500Camry, you're the man! Thanks for your help.

Had a mechanic do the job for me though, replaced both, both CV Boots were cracked wide open and previous owner let it rip. Grease was all over the fender.

Question, though, I feel a little wiggle on the low speeds 15~20 mph and most specially when turning, any ideas?

My mechanic says normally you need an alignment, after changing the axles, but when he does it, there's no need. Should I get one? I am due for new tires anyway, but would hate to spend $60 for nothing, is there a DIY for alignment?

Thanks again.
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Old 01-17-2005, 01:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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mandyfig,

Changing the axles does not affect the wheel alignment. Look at the tulip joint above, the axle is free to move in and out of it as the suspension and steering dictate.

Maybe the wiggle you are feeling is differences in tire tracking on a sharp turn. You'd hear a clicking if it was the CV joint. Also with the wheels off the ground you can check the lower ball joint and the joints where the tie rod ends meet the steering rack.

Best to look at the tires coming off to see if an alignment is needed. Outer half wear, means its toe-in, inner half wear means toe-out (or vice versa - can't remember), either can be fixed by adjusting the tie rod end, but the alignment isn't really a DIY thing. If you get tires and request a wheel alignment, the shop won't do it unless the suspension/steering components are sound. Why not let them diagnose it, then you can choose to forego the allignment, and do things that are DIY, then bring it back later for the alignment. You're paying for the tires, so they should be fine with that.

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Old 01-17-2005, 03:01 PM   #12 (permalink)
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damn....thanks for the graphics! Wasn't expecting that this morning but hell it still great! Anyways finally got the sucker in this morning. Thanks for all the help from everyone who gave some input. Now to go figure out why the gas tank is leaking!
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