PLEASE HELP - Urgent - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

jefe · 01-19-2005, 10:02 AM

Sorry for the alarm, but I am afraid I may be stuck 90 miles from home and need to act fast:

Car started fine this a.m. 2/3 of the way into a 90 mile trip 3 of the dash lights came on (91 Camry 4 cyl auto US - 3s-fe). The warning lights were "Battery", "Lights", and 1 other. The headlights still worked, but there was no juice to the radio at all. I had some battery problems a few weeks back and assumed it was the battery. I left the car idling in Park and went inside to let people know I would be late for a meeting. About 25 minutes later when I came back, the car had stalled and there was no juice when I tried to turn it over. I got a jump and she started fine. But, on the drive to get a new battery it was very sluggish when starting from a standstill and it felt like it would want to stall whenever I came to a stop and tried to start moving again. Also, no acceleration.

I limped to Wal-Mart, bought a new battery and put it in. She started fine, BUT, the 3 DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS STAYED ON. I briefly looked at the fuses under the hood and they looked fine, but didn't have time to get under the kick panel inside to check those too.

Can anyone PLEASE help and tell me what is going on. I am far from home and need to be able to call AAA if I have problems starting her, or driving home. Also it is VERY cold and I can't afford to breakdown and have to walk anywhere.

THANK YOU!!!

DrewsCam · 01-19-2005, 10:07 AM

battery should be good now

fuses for the lights and stuff check the fuses inside the car for those

its cold, u warm up your car? thats important

95camguy · 01-19-2005, 10:10 AM

alternator

BullMarket · 01-19-2005, 10:13 AM

^^my thinking too. how many miles you got on the current alt?

We have an old chevy that could prolly use one but we use the truck so infrequently we just keep returning the batteries under warranty (bout every 1.5 years)

I don't recommend it...but maybe it could get you home...Wally world is your friend.

BULLMKT

jefe · 01-19-2005, 10:14 AM

Would the fuses go at the same time as the battery? It seems like the battery was definately drained.

Is there some sort of time window the "dummy-lights" need to reset themselves?

I always warm up the car. This happened after about an hour of highway driving. Those lights have never been affected in the past by warming/not warming up the car.

jefe · 01-19-2005, 10:15 AM

222,200 miles on the original alternator, but if it was the alternator why would it still run when the "dummy-lights" initially came on?

BullMarket · 01-19-2005, 10:17 AM

yeah I'd say it was time to replace. I edited my orginal post...read that too.

Pineapple · 01-19-2005, 10:20 AM

Alternator, spark plug, ignition coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, anywhere in the fuel and ignition system.

BullMarket · 01-19-2005, 10:25 AM

So it ran fine after you replaced the battery?? It really sounds like the alt to me...I'd get a new battery for the ride home and then replace the alt and all of the things pineapple suggested (the guys smart...I read his posts) as preventative maintnence.

You think with a batt you can get home...?...being stranded sux. Never happened to me but I stay ON my car so it *hopefully* won't happen.

BULLMKT

whocares04 · 01-19-2005, 10:25 AM

about the lights, i'm assuming it's the light showing the cars rear with lines from it (not the BRAKE light) try having someone make sure all your rear lights light up, but other than that i would have to agree with the alternator (don't know if it could have something to do with ignitor/tion)

95camguy · 01-19-2005, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jefe

222,200 miles on the original alternator, but if it was the alternator why would it still run when the "dummy-lights" initially came on?

the car will continue to run until you drain the battery. if you bought a new battery from walmart it may have enough juice to get you home but i really dont know.

also there is no time window for the battery lights to reset. it will go away when the problem goes away. i know the check engine light needs a reset window but the battery light should go off immediatly if the problem was fixed.

the battery light and brake light came on once in my 93 'rolla and the car ran for a few more hours before it had the same symptoms your car had.(slow accel, no power to accesories). then it finally died. $150 later on a new alternator and i was back on the road. its pretty easy to do the alternator too. easy to get to and no crawling around on the ground.

get a battery from walmart to make it home then get your ass to an autoparts store for an alternator.
good luck

jefe · 01-19-2005, 10:26 AM

This is what happened except no noticeable dimming: (The 3rd light was the Emergency Brake Light)

Alternator ?'s

What auto parts store will test an alternator?

Is the regulator an internal or external? Could that be the problem, not the alternator?

Are any special tools needed to replace the brushes?

BullMarket · 01-19-2005, 10:30 AM

any auto parts store should test it. Just call and ask before you put yourself at risk of being stranded. Radio shack might

if you ask nicely(explain your situation)...those guys are usually pretty bored everytime I go in.

BULLMKT

BullMarket · 01-19-2005, 10:48 AM

HIJACK!

Reserve Capacity — This measurement indicates how long your battery would keep the engine running if the alternator stopped charging. It's a measurement of how many minutes the battery will deliver 25 amps at 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) while maintaining at least 1.75 volts per cell, or 10.5 volts total. In other words, this is about how long your car will continue to run with the headlights, wipers and defroster on, if the alternator quits.

So what capacities would be adequate for your car? Bigger doesn't necessarily mean better when it comes to batteries. The climate where you live plays a factor. In a cold climate, bigger is better, but if you live in a hot climate, the lighter CCA may offer an increased life expectancy for the battery.

Not sure what the specifications were in the original battery? Check the owner s manual. If it doesn't provide the battery specs there, check the applica*tion guide from the battery manufacturer. They'll usually list a minimum rec*ommendation for your car. Choosing a battery with higher specs won't hurt, but choosing a battery with lower capacities could leave you stranded one day.

whocares04 · 01-19-2005, 10:50 AM

look for an AutoZone in your area because they do it for free and charge battery (dunno if free) (they plug into computer see what codes are causing problem) HOWEVER, call them before u go b/c for some reason AZ said they couldn't test my 94 Camry with their equip...urs is older so maybe
this link is to AutoZone's site displaying all the locations of stores
AutoZone store locator