Tailight Indicator won't turn off. - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

xylium · 01-20-2005, 11:08 AM

Hello peoples. I have a problem that was actually caused by me but I'm trying to find a way around it. I have a 94 Camry Auto. I bought a 95 Trunk lid/spoiler/center tailight from the junk yard. I was able to simply Plop the whole lid on without any problems. Now my Tailight Burnout Indicator light comes on the dash. The figured it is coming on now because the 95-96 center tailight sections do not have Backup/Brakelights in them and the 92-94's do. I have heard of people doing this swap out but I'm not sure how they got they light to go out? I really like the look of the 95-96 center peice as opposed to the 92-94. The only other thing I could think of is using the old wiring harness and dangle the extra bulbs in the trunk but I kinda didn't wanna do that. Any suggestions?

dna59 · 01-20-2005, 11:14 AM

That's what I did when I sprayed over my '93 center panel. I just left the un used sockets hanging without any bulbs. I took out my burnt taillight indicator bulb anyways so it doesn;t bother. If you could wire it properly then that would be cool. Download the repair manual if you haven't already and see if that could be of assistance to you in the wiring.

xylium · 01-20-2005, 11:26 AM

Where do I find that?

CraigW · 01-20-2005, 11:28 AM

You could calculate the resistance and wattage value needed, and install a wirewound power resistor somewhere to "fake" the circuit out. Then you could keep the warning light system.

xylium · 01-20-2005, 11:32 AM

I thought about doing that, but I'm unsure how I would. Should I just put a multimeter on the wireharness with the bulbs in place and measure the resistance there between the two hots and ground?

***YESCA*** · 01-20-2005, 11:33 AM

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/search.php

xylium · 01-20-2005, 11:42 AM

Now that' cocky, you don't think I tried doing that?

dna59 · 01-20-2005, 12:09 PM

^^

The repair manual is stickied rigth at the top of this same camry section.

white90dx · 01-20-2005, 12:22 PM

Take out the bulb-out indicator on your dash.

-Charlie

***YESCA*** · 01-20-2005, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xylium

Now that' cocky, you don't think I tried doing that?

NO

Try doing a re-wire on the spoiler. It sounds like the braking system is not reconizing the new light and is throwing you a warning.

xylium · 01-20-2005, 09:56 PM

I didn't have to do any wiring in the first place. The harness connectors snapped right in. I know what the problem is, I'm just trying to find a way to bypass it. The 94 trunk lid harness has 6 wires, the 95 has only 4. The reason the 94 has two more wires is that one is for the brake and one for the running lights in the transparent tailight section. If I connect the 94 harness with the spoiler connected, I have no problems at all. The load sensor for the brake/running lights sees that there is not enough resistance because of the missing bulbs. I think I'm gonna try the resistors first, if that fails, then just use the 94 harness and dangle it.

CraigW · 01-21-2005, 06:17 AM

Do you know the #s for the missing bulbs ( #1156, #1157, #3157 ) and how many (2 ?) are missing and I will try to calculate the values needed.

Does the light come on with the taillights or when you step on the brake ?

xylium · 01-21-2005, 09:45 AM

The indicator comes on as soon as I step on the brakes or turn the headlights on. I'm not sure what the bulb is yet, I have to go pick up the harness from my parents house which I planned on testing also. I will let you know what type bulb it is. If it makes any difference, it's the type of bulb that has two fillaments in it for different brightness.

TRD_Rob · 01-21-2005, 12:05 PM

Hi:

I had the same issue when I added a Stock spoiler to my 1998 Camry. There is a seperate sensor for the third brake light. When you added the spoiler, the spoiler needs a different sensor. The senor on my 98 Camry was around the drivers side speaker area in the trunk.

Go to the Toyota Dealer and explain the situation, they should know about the sensor. I think is was around $35.00.

Hope this Helps

TRD_Rob

CraigW · 01-21-2005, 09:50 PM

This is what I figured, correct if wrong please !! The #1157 & #3157 are listed as 27w / 7w----2.1 amps @ 12.8 volts / .59 amps @ 14.0 So basicly a resistor value of 6.1 ohms 26.8 watts / 23.7 ohms 8.3 watts are equivalent.

Radio-Shack #s 271-133 and 271-120 wirewound power resistors may do the trick and are not too $$