Goiing to change timing belt... is the dealer telling me lies? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 01-23-2005, 02:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Goiing to change timing belt... is the dealer telling me lies?

Going to buy OEM parts for a toyota dealership and install a new timing belt and waterpump on my camry (independent mechanic is going to do it as soon as I find one).

I told the dealer I was going to change the timing belt and waterpump and he gave me a REALLY long and expensive list on parts to get:

-timing belt
-2 idlers
-valve cover gasket
-water pump,
-oil pump seal
-and a bunch of stuff i dont' remember...

QUESTION: what is the exact list of things that I need? I am just worried that the dealership will give me a bunch of parts I don't really need to change and rip me off.

please help. any response is appreciated. =)

1995 Camry LE 4-cylinder with 110,000 miles.
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Hey, why don't you try doing this yourself? By the way, the timing belt proceedure has been superceeded, and requires redesigned idler springs(xx-18030->90507-17003) and belts (xx-09040->13568-09041)(1). I don't know about replacing the idlers, I mean was there anything wrong with them to begin with? there is no recomendation to change them otherwise. Some dealers like to fuck customers so a second opinion is always in order.

PS.
Don't tell your new mechanic what exactly the other one said until after you get a detailed estimate, don't give them any ideas...

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Old 01-23-2005, 10:49 AM   #3 (permalink)
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REPLACE EVERYTHING!

I changed my timing belt when i put in a new engine, but i didnt replace the water pump, and 2 months later....guess what? Water pump seized! on me!

Replace everything now, so that it wont break in the future. it will cost you more now, but it will save you from doing it again later.
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Cool

Quote:
-timing belt
-2 idlers
-valve cover gasket
-water pump,
-oil pump seal
All of that is standard to change.

At the very least you *have* to change the belt, and the valve cover gasket. You *REALLY* should change the water pump while you're down there... Doesn't add more than an hour's labor to change the water pump...
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The idlers will prolly be ok till next belt job unless they feel bad or make noise. They are fairly costly too. I didn't see the cam seal mentioned, but while you're there it's cheap and easy to change.
Be careful putting valve cover back on. Very easy to cut new gasket on tight spot at drivers side.
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:28 PM   #6 (permalink)
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im in the same situation i need to change all that stuff to, my mechanic quoted my $400 for all of that stuff(toyota OEM parts of course)

is that price good or is that to high?
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't see why one would simply and pre-emptively change all those parts without cause or inspection. While you're at it replacing working parts, how 'bout replacing the whole engine and why not the car? If those parts are cheap (<$50), the water pump, oil pump seal, and idler pulleys then that would be OK, but it's my opinion that it's dealer's greed. The timing belt is recommended changed every 60k miles, the only parts recommended changed are the belt and the idler tensioning springs and those parts were redesigned in 1999 for all '92-'96 models so get the updated parts.
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anuthaCamry
I don't see why one would simply and pre-emptively change all those parts without cause or inspection.
You add gas to your tank before it runs out of gas right? Same principle.

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Old 01-23-2005, 01:47 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BullMarket
You add gas to your tank before it runs out of gas right? Same principle.

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..but would you change the tank too?
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Old 01-23-2005, 01:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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No because it doesn't have a track record of failing before the next fill up. Waterpumps have a record of failing between belt changes. 90k<fail<180k As such, they really should be changed to save on labor...and future headache.

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Old 01-23-2005, 02:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'd take my chances with the waterpump not failing, and if it failed I'd just fix it then. Idler pulleys, idler pulleys? The guy just wants to replace the timing belt as far as routine maintenance, not a no-holds-barred engine-ancillary parts all out renewal- extraordinaire. The parts counter guys are a strange sort, I had one have an emotion breakdown in front of me a few months ago because I refused to give him my personal information just to buy a $20 book. Parts suppliers are a business that survives off of your money and if there's a grey area, they will err on side of their profit, not to be fair to you. Dealers also hate knowledgeable people.
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I recently spent around low $4xx for a timinig belt, all aux belts, waterpump, thermostat, and coolant flush and fill. Anything else on that business side of the engine I feel confident replacing myself. There is something to be said for preventative maintenance. I have to commute long distances and preventing premature failure is cheaper than towing that bitch all the way home. If you live like 5 mins from where you work...and money isn't an object later down the road...leave her be. Otherwise, replace.

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Old 01-23-2005, 02:20 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i got a question just for general knowledge but. if you wanted to change the timing belt all you really need to do is loosen up the tensioner and remove the belt and basiclly put it back on. torque the tensioner back to its place and set the timing right. Well the breif way to do it anyways right.
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:23 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bowlofturtle
i got a question just for general knowledge but. if you wanted to change the timing belt all you really need to do is loosen up the tensioner and remove the belt and basiclly put it back on. torque the tensioner back to its place and set the timing right. Well the breif way to do it anyways right.
yeah...but you have to drop the passenger side engine mount to get the new belt on (if you cut the old one). Plus you have the cover to deal with...reseal it...and I think the valve cover gasket...haynes is in the car don't quote me on that last one. 5sfe here. It takes some time to do.

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Old 01-23-2005, 02:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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There are a lot of factors involved in preventative maintenance. If this were an aircraft, I'd scrap the engine after 50,000 "miles." If this were to be used in the wilderness outside the reach of radio/cell phones, going back and forth on the chesapeake bay bride 3 times a day, or driving a few miles to the Hunter's point shipyard everyday - anything where a car break down would be a life and death thing, I would just sell the car and put the money on a new car, like a scion or something or something reliable like that.

There is a company that does dirt bike tours across africa and for longer trips a brand new very expensive dirt bike is included. I would imagine that if reliability is that important there is no excuse but to buy a brand new car.

The amount of money spent on pre-emptive work suggested may make simply selling the car and buying a brand new one - on payments - sound attractive. There are some people who spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on fixing up their $3,000 cars, but what are you as a person really trying to get out of it in the end, and is it worth it?
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